The anti-sway bar doesn't need to be huge to do it's job of force transfer (to help negate the rolling action of the frame, body, etc on the suspension as a result of the centrifugal force applied to the vehicle during a turn) , and that's all it does on the rear, however, on the front where the "coil-over" suspension combined with the steering system needs additional support (the front has greater "sway action" since this is where the force direction first changes as the vehicle begins it's turn - the back essentially just "follows along"), you have a much more robust bar. The links on the front bar are crap. The design with the nuts and washers on the horizontal plane is, in my opinion, very light duty & that's why you see some that have the nut and washers ripped off. Most truck sway bars have the linkage connection and bushings on the horizontal plane where the nut & washers aren't under stress during the force transfer action. I think that the addition of grade 8 (or equivalent) washer on both sides of sway bar link bushings would help immensely (I'd place the strong washers on the outside of the bushing washers).

 

Well I haven't removed it since a few of you said to check the insurance policy. I'm in limbo of what to do lol.

 

Just leave it, you'll want new links anyways so I would just install it and try it some day during the summer when you're feeling squirrely.

 

Well right now I can't get the links. Could I just remove both links to stop them from contacting the bar?

 

Don't see why not.

 

Sweet. Thanks!

 

Won't the bar fall and bump the control arm instead?

 

Yes it will, it will need to be tied back with a piece of wire or something until you can manage to get your new links. If you do a quick internet search, you'll find that they are relatively inexpensive and are widely available.

 

Yes they are $17 a piece for moog. But right now I just don't have the cash to get them because I'm trying to get our other car running. I can never get ahead of anything.

 

Sorry to hear that. Tie the ends up so that the bar won't bounce up & down and the ends won't interfere with the motion of the control arms and that should hold it until you can get a set of links. When you're driving with a disconnected sway bar, keep in mind that the front outside corner will "dive" downwards as you turn the truck - the faster you go and the harder you turn will determine the amount of dive, so you'll need to try these maneuvers for yourself to see what you're comfortable doing - don't push it beyond your comfort zone. The condition of the struts & coil springs will also have an effect on how the truck reacts in turns.

I noticed in your picture that you have most of the link still in place. Check the other side & see what shape it's in and how much you've lost. If you have a good auto salvage yard near you that has some Dakotas, you may be able to get what you need for very little, especially if you can remove it yourself. Often they get nothing for things like the anti-sway bar and it's linkage because there's little call for those parts and labor is too costly to remove these parts themselves. If this won't work for you, not everyone agrees with my views on the sway bars remaining in a vehicle, see if there's anyone around that has removed the bar & links and is willing to sell you the parts for cheap.