Rear Blocks Confusion...
#1
Rear Blocks Confusion...
Theres a ton of blocks out there and I have no experience with them whatsoever. From what I've read on searches, aluminum blocks will compact over time and that cast iron will not. Also, for the dakotas, a straight block (non tapered) is recommended. (right?)
I want to get 1.5" blocks in the rear, I've found some that are cast iron pretty cheap but I just don't know if they will fit. They all look to be universal but there are minor differences...
The main differences that I see are the width, the diameter of the hole, and the diameter of the pin.
I'm not worried about the bolts, I'll get those from stengle bros.
What should I look for to be certain they will work?
Thanks!!!
I want to get 1.5" blocks in the rear, I've found some that are cast iron pretty cheap but I just don't know if they will fit. They all look to be universal but there are minor differences...
The main differences that I see are the width, the diameter of the hole, and the diameter of the pin.
I'm not worried about the bolts, I'll get those from stengle bros.
What should I look for to be certain they will work?
Thanks!!!
#2
What ever you go with, make sure they are cast iron if you are lifting.
Our axle has a metal stud that is welded to the leaf spring seat and goes through the leaf spring pack to align the axle with the leafs. The biggest issue with cast iron blocks is the hole and opposing nipple does not fit our truck due to this stud sticking up.
height wise you are probably ok with straight at 1" to 1.5". Anymore and you want tapper. The higher the block, the more taper it will need.
Width wise you will want the same width of the of your leafs.
I bought dodge ram lift blocks and had to put the block on my end mill at work and drill deeper hole the size of the stud on the axle.
Then I had to flip it over and mill down the nipple to the size of the stud so it would align with the leaf spring holes.
With out these holes in the perfect location you really have no way of aligning the rear axle once you unbolt it.
IMAG0077-1.jpg
Our axle has a metal stud that is welded to the leaf spring seat and goes through the leaf spring pack to align the axle with the leafs. The biggest issue with cast iron blocks is the hole and opposing nipple does not fit our truck due to this stud sticking up.
height wise you are probably ok with straight at 1" to 1.5". Anymore and you want tapper. The higher the block, the more taper it will need.
Width wise you will want the same width of the of your leafs.
I bought dodge ram lift blocks and had to put the block on my end mill at work and drill deeper hole the size of the stud on the axle.
Then I had to flip it over and mill down the nipple to the size of the stud so it would align with the leaf spring holes.
With out these holes in the perfect location you really have no way of aligning the rear axle once you unbolt it.
IMAG0077-1.jpg
#3
#4
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What could cause my axle to stick out further on one side than the other? Could these guide bolts you mentioned be bent or broken? I never noticed it until I got these wheels/tires. The difference is about a half an inch, the truck rides straight and true so I just think it's shifted in the leafpack and hardware.
I think there was in an accident at the drivers side bed, it's had apparent body work and is a slightly different color than the rest of the truck. It sticks out further on the passenger side so I think it was hit and never readjusted?
I think there was in an accident at the drivers side bed, it's had apparent body work and is a slightly different color than the rest of the truck. It sticks out further on the passenger side so I think it was hit and never readjusted?
#5
What could cause my axle to stick out further on one side than the other? Could these guide bolts you mentioned be bent or broken? I never noticed it until I got these wheels/tires. The difference is about a half an inch, the truck rides straight and true so I just think it's shifted in the leafpack and hardware.
I think there was in an accident at the drivers side bed, it's had apparent body work and is a slightly different color than the rest of the truck. It sticks out further on the passenger side so I think it was hit and never readjusted?
I think there was in an accident at the drivers side bed, it's had apparent body work and is a slightly different color than the rest of the truck. It sticks out further on the passenger side so I think it was hit and never readjusted?
With Jeeps, the preferred approach is to weld on new perches of the correct height. These are much easier to fabricate or modify and won't slip the way a block can.
#6
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Making a new thread with pics.