Next mod will be stereo/speakers. I'm trying to understand exactly what I have for a stereo system now in my '05 Dak Laramie with 6 speaker infinity system. I've read on dodge.com that it provides 66 watts total power and I've also read that it is a 276 watt six-speaker system. Can someone decipher this for me? What does this mean? Would it be 66/6 speakers for 11 watts each?

As always, thanks in advance for any info.

 

Preface by saying I dont have a larmie with infity speakers but i do have the 6 disc MP3 changer...From other forums out there its pretty clear the 6 speaker infinty system isn't anything great. And guys are kinda pissed you pay like an extra, $1k? for a system that you can buy online for around $200 :P Its lower quality infinity speakers than what are on the market, at the 66 watts the unit puts out is barely enough to really push and GOOD st of speakers. Also the amp in the unit only produces sound in the 3% THD range (the ammount of harmonic distortion, or quality of sound as the unit gets louder), compared to a good amp which usually rates itself at <1%THD. I really like the head unit though for the fact its a 6 disc MP3 changer, theres not too many units out there that can accomplish this, and i think that more than makes up for the crappy amp/speakers

Now apply that to a 6 piece infinity set, whcih i believe is like componets front, regular in rear, and if i had to guess oeprating at 2 ohms front 2 ohms rear on a dual chanel from the headunit amp, and that 66 watts is in RMS and not peak power, that would mean ~30 watts RMS on each, thats the only way i can figure a set of speakers would even turn on (i've been installing for a few years now on the side and that has been my experiece with a good set of speakers at least). Even Infinity's CHEAPEST set of components i could find operate on a RECOMMENDED 90 RMS, but i've seen a set of 60.5cs operate on 50, but past 60% volume on the dial they would distort pretty bad. The 276 watts is as best i can guess a PEAK power rating on the speakers, the system probobly comes no where close to that except at maybe 100%volume whcih at that point would be so distorted that 276 would kill the speakers...

EDIT: AFter looking around on the dodge canada site it appears as if its speakers + amplifier, so actually that 276 is the PEAK rating on an aditional amplifier somewhere. The 66 watts has no relation to speakers in that case. So 276 peak would apply to the 2 rears and 4 front, with just a guess something like 100 watt rear, 100 watt front, and 76 watts for the 2 tweaters. Still not much...

 

The Infinity amp is located in the front passenger kick panel. I have heard the speakers are 2ohm which is strange. 2ohm aftermarket component speakers are off the hook expensive. Could be they are wired 2ohm to extract every ounce of power from the amp. Would like to replace stock stuff with Alpines and add a 10" sub w/another amp while keeping the stock HU(love the steering wheel controls). Having tough time locating info on this system. Have heard from several folks to replace HU, disconnect amp but leave in kick panel, add new 4 chan amp along w/mono amp for sub. Lots of work and $. I'm not the most stereo literate. But am interested in how changing the stock speakers will/will not affect anything. Like to hear from someone that isn't trying to sell me something. I do like the 6 disc changer.

All insight into this system will be greatly appreciated.

2005 Black Dakota Laramie 4x4 QC
4.7L Magnum V8

 

http://www.blueoceanpress.com/~stora...es/stereo.html

Go take a look at this page.....this guy did a complete swap out on his 2002 QC Dakota......it will show you the difference in speaker quality from stock vs. aftermarket..... the pictures are the links...simply click on the picture for the appropriate view..

Aftermarket speakers are simply better then OEM....

 

This message is in responce to Pepperhead
I got the same idea as you, replace the speakers but keep the HU stock, 6 disc mp3 is great The problem is converting the speaker lines over to RCA outputs for use with a decent amp.
http://www.cardomain.com/item/SCOFAI3 - Using one of these you should be able to convert the lines over. I would use regular wire taps to tap into the 4 speaker lines, now which ones those are I'm still not 100% sure of yet as I have not done this on my truck yet, but done it with a couple other cars no problemo. I use the scosche cause you can find em at walmarts for like $15 but there are beter quality ones around too.
Once that is installed the rest is as simple as finding your amp and speakers and running the power and wiring to them all. That is probably the most difficult part as usually to run wire requires a bit of inginuity and taking apart and popping panels if you want it to look clean.
Changing the stock speakers will depend on the quality/type of speakers you buy. You can make music sound really crisp and full, or you can make it thump really loud. Most likely the speakers in there currently are like you said operating at 2ohm, but most speakers are 4ohm and wired in series gives you the 2ohm "power". And thats where the key to wiring comes into play so i like to refer to this site when wiring up any speaker/woofer sets if your going to be playing with ohm ratings http://www.the12volt.com/

 

Devils' Reject- I looked at that guy's install. really like that box he built. Kind of what I'm thinking of doing with mine per the suggestion of a few shops. I'm surprised Infinity would manufacture such a low quality product-even for OEM!

Drakkon- Thanks for the info. Kind of figured that was how they were wired. I will probably go with the Alpine "S" Series speakers with Alpine amps for them and the sub. Nice small but powerful amps for size consideration. Already have New in box Audiobahn AW100Q 10" subs that was going to put in My Ranger that was traded in for the Dakota. Have a shop that will do the install on everything for $300. Just have to get the pieces together. This same shop said he could make custom fiberglass Dynamatted boxes to go under the rear seats thru the floor for $300. Not sure how that would sound. Any thoughts on that? No matter what when the install is done I will watch to see how things are done for educational purposes.
Again thanks for the info. As I said not overly stereo literate-just enough to be dangerous!

 

Hey Pepperhead!

I'm curious how far you got and your stereo specs. I'm still tossing ideas around. Did you get to the stereo/sub yet? Thanks in advance.

 

I haven't gotten far as of yet. Dodge is of no help what so ever on this stereo. I have to pull a door panel too se what the ohm rating is on the speakers. They couldn't even tell me that. The amp cannot be played with at all other than by-passing it w/new amp without screwing the electrical stuff up as it is wired into the ECM. So what i'm going to do is buy a new set of comps for the front and hook up the way they are. Should be okay. If I have too I will buy a 2 channel amp down the road as the amp only powers the comps. The rear's are fed by the HU. Will not replace the rear's as that is a waste of money. Just got my sub amp today(Profile AP700M, 350w rms @2 ohm) along w/amp kit. Now I need to build a box for the Audiobanh AW1000Q 10" sub that I already had. The box will be .56cf and sit between the center console and the rear cup holders w/the sub amp under one of the rear seats. The sub will fire down. Then will take too a shop and pay the $60 to have it installed. Time and money!

 

A couple of weeks ago I hit about a dozen shops and listened to speakers. Due to budget constraints purchased Phoenix Gold R6.5's for the rear and ZR6.5 comps for the front. The comps were missing the tweets so that delayed everything a week. Finally installed the rears today. Watch the depth of the speakers you buy. I bought adapter rings. Had to use the mounting rings as a template to trim the inside of the adapter. Did that w/a jigsaw using a 10 tpi blade and going very slow per audio shop. Now I know why the guy w/the 2002 DQC made mounting rings with 1/4" plywood! The tweet makes just enough contact with the grill that the bottom of the door is slightly bulged out. The speaker adapters are 1/2" thick. Will correct that another day. And using wire taps as nobody locally carries the Metra speaker harness for the 2005. Can't wait to see what lurks under the front doors. Decided to keep the stock hu for now. And will go with an 8" sub as just don't think a 10 will work between the console and the rear seats. There are not a lot of 8" options out there designed for small sealed boxes(.5cf max). Most top out 200w RMS. The exception being the L5 Solo-Baric which will do 300w RMS. The amp I have will do 220 RMS @4ohm or 350 RMS @2ohm ran with the supplied hi level converter. Have narrowed it down to either a Resonant Engineering RE8($70 to the door) or the L5 Kicker($159-$179 w/warranty to the door).
Anybody else doing stereo stuff ?

EAT THE HEAT AND ENJOY THE PAIN!

 

FINALLY!!
Some 2005 Dakota stereo talk

I just put in Infinity speakers 3 weeks ago and some Infinity tweeters as well.

I went with the Infinity Reference 6012si 6.5" speakers in the front & rear doors from Crutchfield. Paid $100 for each pair, but now they're on sale for $80 (got a price adjustment). They're a shallow mount speaker, so mounting depth wasn't a problem.

Also, the speaker wiring harness is the same as previous years...didn't change.

The adapter rings they give you from Crutchfield won't work at all. I see that you used wood as did the other guy you had a link to his page for. I just screwed the speaker into the plastic factory frame/adapter. Did that on my 2004 Quad Cab I had last year as well, since I didn't see any other ways of mounting it.

Then I got Infinity Reference tweeters as well 1011t from Crutchfield too. Those were $80, but again now they're on sale for $64 and I got a price adjusment on those as well. I mounted them in the doors where the factory Infinity tweeters would be if I had that option.

And then I also put in my Alpine CDA-9851 Headunit with the iPod adapter.
Wiring harness is the same as previous years, but you just have to connect the red (12volt) wire to a wire on the HVAC controls (per Crutchfield) and it works awesome.
The iPod adapter unit I mounted behind the passenger side kickpanel (where the factory Infinity amp would be if I had that option) and then the iPod is in the glove box.

And during this as well....I hard wired my radar detector and ran the wire under the dash so only a little piece (4") of wire is showing.

AND.....I also changed the UGLY wood grain radio bezel to the silver one that is found in the Laramie edition. I had the dealer pay for that when I took the truck since I hated it. It looks A LOT better. Only cost like $80 too.


Sooo...now my last project is wiring up a sub. I ran the remote, power & RCAs today. I ordered up a MTX Thunderform box for the Quad Cab and I'm gonna see if it fits. I had one in my 2004 Dakota QC and it worked AWESOME (I changed the sub to a JL Audio W0 though). Crutchfield says it won't fit in the 2005s, but I'm gonna try it because it doesn't look like the seat brackets changed or anything. If it doesn't fit, then I'll send it back (on their bill) and get my money back--came with free shipping so I'm not losing anything.
This time I'm gonna usa a JL Audio W1v2 sub though (4 ohm). I already got it and the amp as well (Rockford Fosgate Power 351M mono amp)....so the box should be here Tuesday and I'll find out my subwoofer system's fate.

If it don't work out, then I'm just gonna have my local audio shop just make me a small wood box for behind the 40 part of the 60/40 rear seat.

I'll definitely post some pics & more details tomorrow or during the week.