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Replacing fronts struts

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Old Oct 23, 2012 | 09:52 PM
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Default Replacing fronts struts

I looked for about ten minutes trying to find the thread that was suggesting that you could get out the front struts without taking apart the entire front end of the truck. I have the quick struts on a 2007 Dakota 4x4 and all the bolts have been sprayed for days in anticipation of this job don't be nice if I a being lazy then tell me I was hoping for a half day job not an all day....
 
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Old Oct 23, 2012 | 09:59 PM
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https://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen...e-no-heat.html

or

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen...installed.html


by honorary member Jkeaton
 
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Old Oct 26, 2012 | 01:55 AM
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I don't think you can... I tried following the manual and the lower arm wouldn't drop. I think you'll have to do the ball joints or tie rods (or both). I ended up taking mine to a shop and did the rear shocks myself.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2012 | 08:25 AM
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You can get it out without removing the control arms. Removing the axle nut allows the lower to drop enough to get the strut in and out. You still have to muscle it though. I'm going to attempt to get the pics back in the thread for my leveling kit install.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2012 | 08:37 AM
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Thanks for the above links I should mention that I searched from my phone and didn't get on a computer which is a much better way to search! ANYWAY the drivers side took a few hours and yes you need to take the sway bar link off and the upper ball joint at minimum. I would recommend the lower as well if you are worried about scratching the paint.......also the drive shaft in the front (if a 4x4) I did neither and stuffed it into the hole with just the sway bar and upper ball joint disconnected.

PASSENGER SIDE LOWER STRUT BUSHING! Read the posts about the problems and after 4 hours got the strut in. It might be time for a sticky for this strut and its replacement! I would recommend a hot torch as the stupid propane hand torch was barely warm enough to melt the rubber. I then had to cut the shock off so I could heat it up further to get it out. THEN getting the bushing out was another ordeal in itself (can we say sawzall bushing in half), remind myself I have been spraying pb blaster on all of the suspension parts for a week! I pounded on the bolt so hard I could not the nut back on! After I got the lower bolt out the strut bushing was rusted to the bolt! I purchased the bushing already (big thanks to everyone who found the Napa part#) BUT should have purchased a new bolt as it would have saved an hour of my life pounding and heating the sleeve out. All said and done put back together and still need to do the brakes.

Only other thing that might be handy besides the new bolt would be painting or treating the top of the strut tower as it was somewhat rusty! Then I remember the days when I would take each piece apart clean and repaint it before putting it back together! I justify it as a daily driver not a show queen or purty lookin

Will post pics if I ever get on a computer..........THANKS EVERYONE FOR THE PRIOR POSTS IT HELPED A BUNCH!
 

Last edited by sparks1032; Oct 26, 2012 at 08:43 AM.
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Old Oct 26, 2012 | 08:49 AM
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you have to remove the sway bar, upper balljoint, and tie rod end. if its a 2wd. at least thats all I ever had to do.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2012 | 10:07 AM
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It also helped that the week before I had a shop install my new struts so the strut bolt was easy to get out when I installed the leveling kit.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2012 | 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by jkeaton
It also helped that the week before I had a shop install my new struts so the strut bolt was easy to get out when I installed the leveling kit.

Yah I wish I had that luxury... I was @ square 1 with mine.

I also removed almost everything on the front end; having 2 jacks helps too
 
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