HEY
not having much here with my dakota
I LOVE THIS VEHICLE
but i guess some of the problems I have had have been my own fault.
right now
i put my window down A FEW inches earlier then tried to put it back up and it wouldnt go up.
like a moron i kept putting it down a few inches then trying to go back up butr it wouldnt, now its completely down..
this happend a couple months ago with passenger window and i put some poly over the window, then magically it went back up a day later on its own.
hoping the same happens now..allthough it is winter time now and worried about the snow
do you think it has anytthing to do with the cold weather?
on the driver side there isthe panel for all four windowss and it appears there is a lightover each one and the top left *driver side* iis not lit up..
any suggestions as to why it isnt going up?
how to properly diagnose this? or solution?
thanks
i am reading info online as i post this

 

If the motor was working in one direction, it could simply be a faulty switch. The first place to check would be the switch and wiring itself. You'll need to pull off the interior door panel and check the rear of the switch, wiring, and connection. If a new power window master switch is needed, they are about $250 new online from Dodge, or find one in a junkyard or Ebay, like this one.

 

Is it sticking? TRY this,spray WD40 on the seals inside the track of the channel,engage the window up/down.All that I've had at work it was the glass sticking to the seal.Give it a shot,just wipe excess off...Just a thought............

 

Below is how the system works.

OPERATION


POWER WINDOW SWITCH

The power windows are controlled by a window/lock switch on the trim panel of each front door. Switches in the driver door window/lock switch allows the driver to control the passenger window (s).
The power window switch for the driver side front door window has a second detent position beyond the normal Down position that provides an automatic one-touch window down feature. This feature is controlled by the window/lock switch.
The power window switches control the battery and ground feeds to the power window motors. All of the passenger door power window switches receive their battery and ground feeds through the circuitry of the window/lock switch. When the power window lockout switch is in the Lock position, the battery feed for the individual passenger door power window switches is interrupted.

POWER WINDOW MOTOR

A permanent magnet reversible motor moves the window regulator through an integral gearbox mechanism. A positive and negative battery connection to the two motor terminals will cause the motor to rotate in one direction. Reversing the current through these same two connections will cause the motor to rotate in the opposite direction.
In addition, each power window motor is equipped with an integral self-resetting circuit breaker to protect the motor from overloads. The power window motor and gearbox assembly cannot be repaired and, if inoperative or damaged, the power window regulator must be replaced.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - WINDOW/DOOR LOCK SWITCH

Refer to the appropriate wiring information.
The Light-Emitting Diode (LED) illumination lamps for all of the window/lock switch window and lock switches receive battery current through the circuit breaker in the Integrated Power Module (IPM). If only one LED in the switch is inoperative, replace the switch. If the driver side front door window operates in a normal manner, but the Auto-Down feature is inoperative, replace the window/lock switch.
1. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. 2. Remove the window/lock switch from the door trim panel. 3. Disconnect the door wire harness connectors from the switch. 4. Test the switch continuity.

 

A permanent magnet reversible motor moves the window regulator through an integral gearbox mechanism. A positive and negative battery connection to the two motor terminals will cause the motor to rotate in one direction. Reversing the current through these same two connections will cause the motor to rotate in the opposite direction.

if i am reading this correct, it looks like you could flip the connection on the motor to at least get it to go back up for the time being.?

 

Or you could just switch the switches.Need to check for broken or cracked wires first as that could be a much simpler fix. If the wire going from the switch to the motor is loose or cracked that could explain the intermittent operation in the up mode.

 

And here we see the reason LCat loves the old-school crank up windows in his '06. LoL!

Yes, I would also suspect the switch as being the problem in this case.

 

well the window seemed to fix on its own again..not sure why..going to minimize the use of it..must be the motor going or something?
orr crack or split inwires

 

One way window operation can be 1 other thing. The traditional way electric windows are made is to use 2 "pull" cables (pull-only cables are a lot cheaper than push-pull cables), when the motor is going 1 way, 1 cable pulls on the window mechanism and the other cable just winds up & when you reverse the motor, the other cable pulls and the first one winds up. Sometimes, one of these cables jumps a track, breaks, or one of the pulleys wears out and you end up with 1 way operation.

If it "comes back to life", it would be electrical, probably a switch from the sounds of the symptoms.

Either way, to really trouble shoot electric window issues, you pretty well need to pull the panel off the door & then you can do a quick check on both the electrics (multi-meter) and the mechanics (visual will do the trick - you'll normally see what's wrong if it's a mechanical problem).

 

I had a similar problem...window went down but not up...then the switch began to smoke. Took the switch apart and noticed one of the pins on the switch for the driver window was burnt. After examination it became obvious the connection with the circuit board was not tight so the added resistance caused the overheating. On this 2007 Dakota the switches connect to the CB by the pins passing thru holes in the CB but they are not soldered. So to make this a tighter connection I inserted a pin in the same hole and trimmed it off. Now it works fine. I suppose you could also solder it but then taking the switch apart again would be more difficult.