I have a pretty bad case of steering wheel shake when I brake so I am thinking I may need new rotors. Now, take a look at this video at 5:00 and see what this guy has to do to budge the rotors. Is it really this bad?

 

It can be pretty bad, mine were oxidized/rusted on there pretty bad. Takes some convincing with a BFH.

But that's the hard part, also pressing the pistons back can be a pain because the piston can bind sideways a little and seem seized. but letting off pressure and trying again did the trick for me.

But otherwise rotor replacement is a good start to learning how to do it all yourself.

 

It's really not bad. Beat the crap out of it, your replacing it anyway. Use antisieze on the back of the new one so it wont happen again. Trucks from the northern states are probably a little worse due to salt. Mine came off pretty easy.

 

I have done plenty of brake work before but this is my nightmare when you can't remove something and in the process something breaks or gets stripped.

 

Why steering wheel shake comes from my Rear Drums/Shoes going odd shaped. lol

My rotors came off fairly easy. Unlike everything else on my truck.

 

this guys swings like a girl! first off, he needs a bigger hammer. plus, he isn't reusing that rotor so what is he holding back for?! it's super easy..I learned very quick when I was in school

 

I didn't have any problem at all, here is a before and after. The best way to deal with the pistons (my opinion) is to use 2 C-clamps. Open the brake fluid cap so it will not build up pressure, than put the two clamps on the caliper, tighten one than the other. As for the rotor itself, like mentioned earlier, a Big F* Hammer and also some MAN, which can be found at your local Auto Store. While changing rotors... hell, put new brake pads, but first use your old brake pad to lay on both pistons and push them all the way in so it will go on with ease.


Before, crappy brakes and rotors, 3"leveling kit, 1"coil spacers which equaled ball joints going to hell within 2yrs...
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After:
(also new strut, and removed 1" coil spacers. New tie rod ends, upper control arm and lower ball joint. )
IMG-20130428-01017_zpsb1851ebf.jpg




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3" Leveling kit- Rancho's All around- 265/75R16 BFG Rugged Terrains- Custom Short Ram Intake- Straight piped exhaust w/ custom 3" stacks- Black housing headlights 6k HID- Custom HarleyDavidson Shifter

 

My question is why all the banging? Why doesn't it just fall off once the wheel is removed?

 

There was some corrosion between the hub and the disk.

It wasn't really all that bad, btw. Anyone who's lived in the salt and rust belt has had a lot worse. Back when I lived in the upper mid West, you'd end up replacing the hardware and the lug bolts as well. Really a bitch when you have to take the brakes all the way apart to replace a lug bolt.

 

That was my thoughts too. A couple good "bumps" from a 7 lb sledge and mine were off. The do get a bit of corrosion on the back side. Liek the others stated, the salt belt states and the constant heating a cooling create condensation which inhibits corrosion