Commenting so I can find this in the future. Looking at doing a swap soon.

 

Though my setup is fairly final, I'm going to see how it is to bore out and re thread that brass adapter since I have access to a drill press and tap. Maybe I'll make a few that can be used on the 4.7s

 

That looks good, I didn't realize you had a 2 temperature thermal switch doing your Hi/Lo switching for you. That setup should work pretty well for you, the only thing I'd do would be to add some back EMF protection (this is caused by the collapsing field on inductors such as electric motors, solenoids, relays, etc.) to make sure you don't have the possibility of a huge spike damaging any critical electronics downstream from the inductor. I'll have a look at your wiring diagram sometime this week and mark it up showing some suggested protection (should be just some diodes).

 

In the past I've used some coolant plumbing adapters for things like thermal switches and sensors - they look like you see in this link, it fits in-line with your hose (cut the hose, insert this adapter in between the 2 halves) and comes in a variety of taps that you can put the switch/sensor into (I've normally used 3/8NPT since the largest variety of switches were available in that size).

 

That's what I'm using, one that is made by Greddy, bored and retapped to a m14x1.5 (non-taper) to fit the BMW switch, then sealed with permatex. Only because my hemi doesn't have a spare 3/8npt like the 4.7 does.

But one doing this swap has the choice of an inline adapter, that they will probably have to retap to metric thread, or the retapped bushing using the spare 3/8th npt test port. Unless they choose to use the double switch method, and a double inline adapter like this one:

Though Hollister offers a more affordable one here:

http://www.hollisterroad.com/proddet...Adaptor_Double

The problem with this is that the low switch will stay on while the high switch is on if the temps get up there. I don't think that's a problem with the Volvo relay though. Hollister also supplies two different temp switches as well, though they come in their kit. I doubt they would have a problem with giving those part numbers if someone were to email them.


I still have an updated video to make, but I currently have the radiator out of the truck and I'm sizing up and adapting the Mark VIII fan I got, I'm very optimistic about this one. It's definitely overkill for the 4.7, and probably overkill for me, but it adds a bit of future proofness (not a word) to my setup, one day I hope to have even more power.

 

bookmarking this, im swapping commands to NY pretty soon n will have my own place to finally do some substantial work

 

Great guys! Let me know if you have any questions, as I may have been very clear on somethings and a bit low on the details for others, I tend to ramble lol.

 

OK, so I got the lower temp dual BMW switch today, and I can confirm it is indeed an 80/88 switch, low is on at 80 and high is on at 88. My guess is this design was meant to go after the radiator in the flow direction, on a BMW. Whereas the 91/99 is before the radiator. But for someone with a 180 Tstat, this might fit better than the 91/99. I will keep you posted on the switch.

I also got my replacement radiator, so the Mark VIII fan will be in tonight and should have it running tomorrow morn. more on that in my hemi build thread later.

 

I'm assuming the numbers you're using for the switches are degrees C vs F as you have for the thermostat. When I made relay based controllers for 2 speed fans in the past, I used single temp switches (one for Lo ON and one for Hi ON) that were easy to cut out with proper relay placement - they do stay on once they reach their temp. For the relay box you're using, they probably have that wired to cut out the Lo temp switch influence (a common placement is using the normally ON output of the relay for the Hi speed - this turns off the Lo switch once the Hi temp relay turns on the Hi speed power) once the Hi switch kicks in. For anyone wanting individual temperature switches, there are lots available with various temp settings and also a selection of thread sizes - I'll see what I can find when I have some time.

I see you're getting the Mark 8 fan, is it also 2 speed? The ones I'm familiar with are single speed and were pulse controlled from the ECU based on the coolant temp sensor input.

 

Here's a link to a US company that makes/supplies thermal switches - both one output as well as multiple. I've never used any of their 2 switch units, but they should work the same as what you're using FrenicX & are available in NPT thread. They have a 1 sheet on-line catalog available or you can call them to decide on exactly what you need.