E-FAN Taurus Fan and other 2 speed fan setup
#1
08-10-2013, 05:52 PM
E-FAN Taurus Fan and other 2 speed fan setup
This is a bit long winded but I felt the info was relevant lol.
So some of us want to switch to an e-fan and some of us have been let-down by the tried and true HHR e-fan setup. HHR is a good, quick, cheap and easy setup and I won't flame it, but it let me down on my 4.7.. just didn't pull enough air to combat the 100+ dry temps we get out here.
Once the HHR fan finally died, I went back to my clutch fan for a while, few months later I did my Hemi swap, and tried used the 4.7 clutch fan, but it turned out to not be good enough either. So I went searching and searching for a cheap setup.
So aside from the HHR, the other heavy hitters out there are Mark VIII fan and the Taurus fan. Both have 2 speed variants. But with up to 80 (or more) amp in-rush current on the high side, they need special attention when it comes to controlling them.
The ideal way to control these fans is to ramp up the duty cycle with PWM signals using only the high side, and adjust the pulse width based on temperature.. but it gets complicated when trying to build your own. It would be fun though, to build a driver board that uses the Arduino... but the hobbyist in me is a little lazy for that. I hate programming, but I like building.
But you don't have to build your own PWM fan controller, because DCC makes one, but with 3 month lead times and $180 smakeroos down the drain. I think I'll go with a two relay setup.
DCC also makes a good relay based controller
http://www.dccontrol.com/
And there are options from Hollister
http://www.hollisterroad.com/
Both companies make something that will control these 2 speed ford fans, but theres $80 down there, just for the controller, and again DCC has a 6 week lead time on those. The guy probably solders them together in his basement.
So what else is there then? Well besides various random stuff that may or may not work as advertised from Summit and Jegs catalogs, there's the fun and affordable cross/manufacturer setup that exists on a couple forums, around the web.
The Ford/Volvo/BMW (or audi/vw) setup
So to start with, you need to gather parts. You can rummage your local junk yard or you can buy new.. buying new kinda defeats the purpose of brewing your own though... because cost efficiency goes out the window at that point. But I will include part numbers anyways. If you pull from junk yards, always get the adjoined connectors from the parts and at least 6" of length
The Ford Fan: $20-$35 junkyard or $70-$140 new from ebay or amazon
So you can use a 2 speed fan from any Ford/Lincoln/Mercury with the 3.8 v6 from 90 to 95. As far as I could tell, they all used the same fan.
Here is what the Taurus fan looks like, notice the offset.. Mark VIII fans are more centered and the smaller 3.0 V6 fan has smaller fan and bigger offset. So make sure it looks like this, OR you can go with the Mark VIII fan, which I haven't fitted in our engine bay yet, though I do have one, more on it later.\
KGrHqZngFH5gcW3hpBS6MPCiFw60_57.jpg
KGrHqJqFHpQTwwu9BS6MiuqOg60_57.jpg
Then there's the Mark VIII fan, it seems to be the most "difficult" because of all the different variants. While the shroud is the same, the fan and whether its a 2 speed or single speed varies. I pulled two of them today and tested them, both from mercury 4.6 V8 cougars, both were 96 or newer as they had the 96+ body style. Both were 2 speed, but one fan was sooooo powerful on high, that it lifted off the ground when I tested it, the other was just a bit more powerful than the taurus fan. So it can be worth it to rummage a bit more to find a good 2 speed Mark 8/cougar v8 fan. Here's a pic, notice the 3 riveted bolts that hold the motor down... there is a variant that actually has nuts there instead of rivets, so it's serviceable, that is also the more powerful of the two.. not the one pictured.
2011-07-19104222.jpg?t=1376165586
The Volvo Relay: $5-$10 junkyard or $55 new from NAPA
This was very easy to find, I mean I could have pulled 10 of them from each junk yard. They charge the regular relay price too so it's cheap. They can be found on a variety or Volvos from 94 to 2001. I also found a larger style dual fuse holder on one of them that fused the fan after the relay, to protect the relay on both high and low. I'm not using it, but I grabbed it because it might prove useful if the 40amp max inline (medium style) that I got doesn't pan out. It's just under the cover that is above the fan if you get a junkyard one. Here's a couple pics of the relay and where it's located on the car.
IMG_20130804_194237.jpg
The second red circle shows where a potential 40amp relay could be, some had it some didn't I didn't grab one because I had one already. Beyond the 2 speed relay is the fuse holder I mentioned earlier. Holds a 30 amp slow blow and a 35 amp standard.
IMG_20130806_170657.jpg
The BMW temp switch: $3-$5 junkyard or $11-$20 new from rockauto
This was my second venture at getting a 2 way temp switch, it's not the only option because you can also just get 2 separate switches or use the Audi/VW switch. But in my opinion, even for the 4.7, it's the best of the 3.
They are a single pole double throw switch, the switch closes at 91c and 99c for the high. they open back up around 5-10c lower if it cools down that far.
It is a metric 14 size with a 1.5 pitch. You can easily bore and thread a Greddy temp sensor hose adaptor, or, in the case of the 4.7, you can get a 3/8npt to 1/8npt bushing (plumbing or air compressor product), bore it out to m14x1.5 using a 1/2 bit and correct tap. All pictured below. Since I couldn't get a perfect angle on the greddy when I drilled it, I had to use permatex when I installed it to get a good seal. They use a copper or synthetic washer on the BMW, but chances are using permatex will be better. There is also a pre-made adapter from jagsthatrun.com
http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Par...mpSending.html
IMG_20130808_183318.jpg
Here are the 3 I pulled from the junk yard, all polished up using PEEN polish.. a little OCD, I know.
IMG_20130808_190626-1.jpg
The alternative Audi/VW sensor:
This was my first idea for the 3 way switch, there are hundreds out there at junk yards. But they are big, an M22 thread.. makes it harder to find a place for them. The 4.7 would hold it, in the outlet neck, but the timing cover would need to be modified, which would mean removing it from the block so metal shavings didn't get in the waterways... or a 3/8th npt to 1/2npt adapter would need to be drilled and tapped to m22, but I don't know if that would work.
There's also 3/8th npt hose sensor adaptors like my greddy that should have enough meat on them to be bored and tapped to m22, but why bother?
IMG_20130804_194237-1.jpg
An inline fuse holder: $3 from a parts store
This is so you can put a fuse from the battery to the initial switching relay. It's optional, in fact so is the switching relay. But recommended.
Most of these come in the medium size, it would be ideal to have the large size one just in case the 40amp isn't enough. As I said before, I was able to get a couple from a volvo that were meant to protect the relay block from the fans current draw. But I may re-purpose them.
NewFuseBox.jpg
Another relay for 12v switching (optional): $15 from Amazon
This relay will make it so the power to the Volvo relay is cut off when you turn off the key. I already had one from a battery isolation I did on a sound system from my old S10. It's a beefy one, 80amp continuous rated for so cheap, it's a bargain really. It's still sold at amazon.
PAC-80
IMG_20130809_181504.jpg
So some of us want to switch to an e-fan and some of us have been let-down by the tried and true HHR e-fan setup. HHR is a good, quick, cheap and easy setup and I won't flame it, but it let me down on my 4.7.. just didn't pull enough air to combat the 100+ dry temps we get out here.
Once the HHR fan finally died, I went back to my clutch fan for a while, few months later I did my Hemi swap, and tried used the 4.7 clutch fan, but it turned out to not be good enough either. So I went searching and searching for a cheap setup.
So aside from the HHR, the other heavy hitters out there are Mark VIII fan and the Taurus fan. Both have 2 speed variants. But with up to 80 (or more) amp in-rush current on the high side, they need special attention when it comes to controlling them.
The ideal way to control these fans is to ramp up the duty cycle with PWM signals using only the high side, and adjust the pulse width based on temperature.. but it gets complicated when trying to build your own. It would be fun though, to build a driver board that uses the Arduino... but the hobbyist in me is a little lazy for that. I hate programming, but I like building.
But you don't have to build your own PWM fan controller, because DCC makes one, but with 3 month lead times and $180 smakeroos down the drain. I think I'll go with a two relay setup.
DCC also makes a good relay based controller
http://www.dccontrol.com/
And there are options from Hollister
http://www.hollisterroad.com/
Both companies make something that will control these 2 speed ford fans, but theres $80 down there, just for the controller, and again DCC has a 6 week lead time on those. The guy probably solders them together in his basement.
So what else is there then? Well besides various random stuff that may or may not work as advertised from Summit and Jegs catalogs, there's the fun and affordable cross/manufacturer setup that exists on a couple forums, around the web.
The Ford/Volvo/BMW (or audi/vw) setup
So to start with, you need to gather parts. You can rummage your local junk yard or you can buy new.. buying new kinda defeats the purpose of brewing your own though... because cost efficiency goes out the window at that point. But I will include part numbers anyways. If you pull from junk yards, always get the adjoined connectors from the parts and at least 6" of length
The Ford Fan: $20-$35 junkyard or $70-$140 new from ebay or amazon
So you can use a 2 speed fan from any Ford/Lincoln/Mercury with the 3.8 v6 from 90 to 95. As far as I could tell, they all used the same fan.
Here is what the Taurus fan looks like, notice the offset.. Mark VIII fans are more centered and the smaller 3.0 V6 fan has smaller fan and bigger offset. So make sure it looks like this, OR you can go with the Mark VIII fan, which I haven't fitted in our engine bay yet, though I do have one, more on it later.\
KGrHqZngFH5gcW3hpBS6MPCiFw60_57.jpg
KGrHqJqFHpQTwwu9BS6MiuqOg60_57.jpg
Then there's the Mark VIII fan, it seems to be the most "difficult" because of all the different variants. While the shroud is the same, the fan and whether its a 2 speed or single speed varies. I pulled two of them today and tested them, both from mercury 4.6 V8 cougars, both were 96 or newer as they had the 96+ body style. Both were 2 speed, but one fan was sooooo powerful on high, that it lifted off the ground when I tested it, the other was just a bit more powerful than the taurus fan. So it can be worth it to rummage a bit more to find a good 2 speed Mark 8/cougar v8 fan. Here's a pic, notice the 3 riveted bolts that hold the motor down... there is a variant that actually has nuts there instead of rivets, so it's serviceable, that is also the more powerful of the two.. not the one pictured.
2011-07-19104222.jpg?t=1376165586
The Volvo Relay: $5-$10 junkyard or $55 new from NAPA
This was very easy to find, I mean I could have pulled 10 of them from each junk yard. They charge the regular relay price too so it's cheap. They can be found on a variety or Volvos from 94 to 2001. I also found a larger style dual fuse holder on one of them that fused the fan after the relay, to protect the relay on both high and low. I'm not using it, but I grabbed it because it might prove useful if the 40amp max inline (medium style) that I got doesn't pan out. It's just under the cover that is above the fan if you get a junkyard one. Here's a couple pics of the relay and where it's located on the car.
IMG_20130804_194237.jpg
The second red circle shows where a potential 40amp relay could be, some had it some didn't I didn't grab one because I had one already. Beyond the 2 speed relay is the fuse holder I mentioned earlier. Holds a 30 amp slow blow and a 35 amp standard.
IMG_20130806_170657.jpg
The BMW temp switch: $3-$5 junkyard or $11-$20 new from rockauto
This was my second venture at getting a 2 way temp switch, it's not the only option because you can also just get 2 separate switches or use the Audi/VW switch. But in my opinion, even for the 4.7, it's the best of the 3.
They are a single pole double throw switch, the switch closes at 91c and 99c for the high. they open back up around 5-10c lower if it cools down that far.
It is a metric 14 size with a 1.5 pitch. You can easily bore and thread a Greddy temp sensor hose adaptor, or, in the case of the 4.7, you can get a 3/8npt to 1/8npt bushing (plumbing or air compressor product), bore it out to m14x1.5 using a 1/2 bit and correct tap. All pictured below. Since I couldn't get a perfect angle on the greddy when I drilled it, I had to use permatex when I installed it to get a good seal. They use a copper or synthetic washer on the BMW, but chances are using permatex will be better. There is also a pre-made adapter from jagsthatrun.com
http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Par...mpSending.html
IMG_20130808_183318.jpg
Here are the 3 I pulled from the junk yard, all polished up using PEEN polish.. a little OCD, I know.
IMG_20130808_190626-1.jpg
The alternative Audi/VW sensor:
This was my first idea for the 3 way switch, there are hundreds out there at junk yards. But they are big, an M22 thread.. makes it harder to find a place for them. The 4.7 would hold it, in the outlet neck, but the timing cover would need to be modified, which would mean removing it from the block so metal shavings didn't get in the waterways... or a 3/8th npt to 1/2npt adapter would need to be drilled and tapped to m22, but I don't know if that would work.
There's also 3/8th npt hose sensor adaptors like my greddy that should have enough meat on them to be bored and tapped to m22, but why bother?
IMG_20130804_194237-1.jpg
An inline fuse holder: $3 from a parts store
This is so you can put a fuse from the battery to the initial switching relay. It's optional, in fact so is the switching relay. But recommended.
Most of these come in the medium size, it would be ideal to have the large size one just in case the 40amp isn't enough. As I said before, I was able to get a couple from a volvo that were meant to protect the relay block from the fans current draw. But I may re-purpose them.
NewFuseBox.jpg
Another relay for 12v switching (optional): $15 from Amazon
This relay will make it so the power to the Volvo relay is cut off when you turn off the key. I already had one from a battery isolation I did on a sound system from my old S10. It's a beefy one, 80amp continuous rated for so cheap, it's a bargain really. It's still sold at amazon.
PAC-80
IMG_20130809_181504.jpg
Last edited by FrenicX; 08-10-2013 at 09:03 PM.
#2
08-10-2013, 05:53 PM
Install
I removed all the plastic shrouding a long time ago, and I don't recall the order of removal, but basically I just had to get everything out of the way. The cover on the top, I kept. But the rest of the shroud went bye bye. Then I had to remove the clutch fan, some people have troubles with this, but it's not actually that bad. Get a big wrench or crescent wrench that fits it.. it's reverse threaded so you have to push toward the passenger side.
It can work 2 different ways, I either had to find a way to stop the water pump pulley from moving, or just wack the wrench with a hammer, hard and fast.. that way the water pump pulley doesn't even have a chance to move. It can really be easy, most of the time. I used an allen wrench my first time, propped it up inside the pulley drum and it stopped it from turning, I was using channel locks so I didn't have the hammer option.
Once the clutch fan is out of the way, and all the plastic, I had a lot of room to work with.
Now, I'm hoping that the 4.7 has more space before the waterpump than my hemi. But if not, the fan can be installed upside down or the shroud can be shaved a 1/2 inch or so all the way around. For now I will show you my install as a starting point.
I went to homedepot and grabbed some angle aluminum, 1/8th thick, 3/4 height, and 36" long. I measured the distance between the two brackets on top of the radiator that are now vacant after removing the shroud. I added some length for overhang and then cut it with a hack saw. I then lined up and marked for the bolt holes. I drilled it, then I could use the original bolts that went there.
I then test fit the fan, and saw that just like the HHR fan, I could get it to hold in the small lip that's on the edge of the lower radiator. Which means I only needed to solid mount the top. I did have to trim the bottom of the fan in-order to get the lip on the fan to fit more snuggly in the radiator lip.
In the right side up position, the fan has an eyelet in the middle at the top. I used this to mount the fan to the aluminum angle. While the fan was resting in the radiator lip, I measured the distance from the eyelet to the middle of the aluminum, I added a 1/4" to that measurement so that there would be pressure once it was installed, to hold the fan tightly down in the radiator lip.
IMG_20130810_155540.jpg
IMG_20130810_155803.jpg
IMG_20130810_155742.jpg
IMG_20130810_160211.jpg
I did this in a progressive way originally, first I wired a 3 position switch in the engine bay, tested the truck for a few days, then I ran that to the cab, then I installed the Volvo relay with that cab switch, tested for a few days, and then I added the temp switch and switching relay... But not to jump ahead. If I were to do it on another vehicle, I would do it all at once of course.
So, with the fan firmly in place, the next thing is placing all the other components. Here's a few pics showing where I put everything.
IMG_20130810_155723.jpg
IMG_20130810_155626.jpg
Alright, and for the BMW temperature switch.. Now, if you were to fork over the $22 for the 3/8npt to m14x1.5 adapter that would make it all easy, then ignore this next part.
To make the adapter, you need a half inch drill bit, a drill press preferably, and the cheapest m14x1.5 tap you can find. I got one for $7 from Irwin tools, part number 1750. Then you need the bung to start with, home dept had one for $2.50. It's a 3/8npt to 1/8npt adapter bung available anywhere.
It's easy if you have a drill press, just line it up and bore it out, if your press has speed control you can use the tap in it, otherwise use a hand drill and a vise. If you don't have a drill press, then you need a vise at the very least and a hand drill... a steady hand, and good aim. Get a couple bungs just in case. Drill it, tap it.
So now you have an adapter for the BWM switch, use permatex or JB weld on the switch threads and put the adapter on it. Now install it in the spare 3/8npt hole on the hose neck of your 4.7.
Here's the BMW switch, drill bit, tap, and 3/8npt bung, plus the solution I required on my 5.7.
IMG_20130808_183318.jpg
Here's the bung you will need, and the hole it will go in on the timing cover.
IMG_20130810_160835.jpg
A pic from Blueovalfanatics.com of the modified bung, and one installed in a ferd.
2013-05-03095519_zps858b2eef.jpg
2013-05-03112645_zps7557f851.jpg
Ok, so all the components are installed. The next part would be wiring it all up. Besides the hacksaw, these are mostly what I used to do the wiring:
d1687ab0-ba52-4f90-a897-fbc7b36eb989.jpg?t=1376178938
Here's a schematic that will be usefull, I borrowed it from Shane at blueovalfanatics.com. I was just too lazy to draw up my own, even though I use autocad electrical all day.. I modified his pic to show wire gauges.
ShaneTfanModifiedbyFrenicX.jpg
So get some electrical supplies
10ga wire, shouldn't need more than 10ft
16 or 18ga wire, again no more than 10ft
yellow 10-12ga ring terminals and butt connectors
red 18-22 smaller ring terminals and butt connectors
If you pull from junk yards, always get the adjoined connectors from the parts and at least 6" of length
Shrink tubing, two different sizes.
Heat source for shrink tube
Electrical Tape
Wire loom
Zip ties
40a fuses as spares
Self tapping screws, in a larger size, short length
Always use dielectric grease on automotive wiring, in splices and terminals.
A good tip I learned is when you wire, it helps to do one component at a time, land the wires that will go on it, cut extra length in the direction of where each wire goes loom it as you route it, and then trim and terminate it at the destination. Always tug test your splices, this may get annoying if they pull out and you waste connectors, but it's worth it.
Few pics of my install with directions.
VolvoDirection.jpg
SwitchDirections.jpg
RelayDirection.jpg
It can work 2 different ways, I either had to find a way to stop the water pump pulley from moving, or just wack the wrench with a hammer, hard and fast.. that way the water pump pulley doesn't even have a chance to move. It can really be easy, most of the time. I used an allen wrench my first time, propped it up inside the pulley drum and it stopped it from turning, I was using channel locks so I didn't have the hammer option.
Once the clutch fan is out of the way, and all the plastic, I had a lot of room to work with.
Now, I'm hoping that the 4.7 has more space before the waterpump than my hemi. But if not, the fan can be installed upside down or the shroud can be shaved a 1/2 inch or so all the way around. For now I will show you my install as a starting point.
I went to homedepot and grabbed some angle aluminum, 1/8th thick, 3/4 height, and 36" long. I measured the distance between the two brackets on top of the radiator that are now vacant after removing the shroud. I added some length for overhang and then cut it with a hack saw. I then lined up and marked for the bolt holes. I drilled it, then I could use the original bolts that went there.
I then test fit the fan, and saw that just like the HHR fan, I could get it to hold in the small lip that's on the edge of the lower radiator. Which means I only needed to solid mount the top. I did have to trim the bottom of the fan in-order to get the lip on the fan to fit more snuggly in the radiator lip.
In the right side up position, the fan has an eyelet in the middle at the top. I used this to mount the fan to the aluminum angle. While the fan was resting in the radiator lip, I measured the distance from the eyelet to the middle of the aluminum, I added a 1/4" to that measurement so that there would be pressure once it was installed, to hold the fan tightly down in the radiator lip.
IMG_20130810_155540.jpg
IMG_20130810_155803.jpg
IMG_20130810_155742.jpg
IMG_20130810_160211.jpg
I did this in a progressive way originally, first I wired a 3 position switch in the engine bay, tested the truck for a few days, then I ran that to the cab, then I installed the Volvo relay with that cab switch, tested for a few days, and then I added the temp switch and switching relay... But not to jump ahead. If I were to do it on another vehicle, I would do it all at once of course.
So, with the fan firmly in place, the next thing is placing all the other components. Here's a few pics showing where I put everything.
IMG_20130810_155723.jpg
IMG_20130810_155626.jpg
Alright, and for the BMW temperature switch.. Now, if you were to fork over the $22 for the 3/8npt to m14x1.5 adapter that would make it all easy, then ignore this next part.
To make the adapter, you need a half inch drill bit, a drill press preferably, and the cheapest m14x1.5 tap you can find. I got one for $7 from Irwin tools, part number 1750. Then you need the bung to start with, home dept had one for $2.50. It's a 3/8npt to 1/8npt adapter bung available anywhere.
It's easy if you have a drill press, just line it up and bore it out, if your press has speed control you can use the tap in it, otherwise use a hand drill and a vise. If you don't have a drill press, then you need a vise at the very least and a hand drill... a steady hand, and good aim. Get a couple bungs just in case. Drill it, tap it.
So now you have an adapter for the BWM switch, use permatex or JB weld on the switch threads and put the adapter on it. Now install it in the spare 3/8npt hole on the hose neck of your 4.7.
Here's the BMW switch, drill bit, tap, and 3/8npt bung, plus the solution I required on my 5.7.
IMG_20130808_183318.jpg
Here's the bung you will need, and the hole it will go in on the timing cover.
IMG_20130810_160835.jpg
A pic from Blueovalfanatics.com of the modified bung, and one installed in a ferd.
2013-05-03095519_zps858b2eef.jpg
2013-05-03112645_zps7557f851.jpg
Ok, so all the components are installed. The next part would be wiring it all up. Besides the hacksaw, these are mostly what I used to do the wiring:
d1687ab0-ba52-4f90-a897-fbc7b36eb989.jpg?t=1376178938
Here's a schematic that will be usefull, I borrowed it from Shane at blueovalfanatics.com. I was just too lazy to draw up my own, even though I use autocad electrical all day.. I modified his pic to show wire gauges.
ShaneTfanModifiedbyFrenicX.jpg
So get some electrical supplies
10ga wire, shouldn't need more than 10ft
16 or 18ga wire, again no more than 10ft
yellow 10-12ga ring terminals and butt connectors
red 18-22 smaller ring terminals and butt connectors
If you pull from junk yards, always get the adjoined connectors from the parts and at least 6" of length
Shrink tubing, two different sizes.
Heat source for shrink tube
Electrical Tape
Wire loom
Zip ties
40a fuses as spares
Self tapping screws, in a larger size, short length
Always use dielectric grease on automotive wiring, in splices and terminals.
A good tip I learned is when you wire, it helps to do one component at a time, land the wires that will go on it, cut extra length in the direction of where each wire goes loom it as you route it, and then trim and terminate it at the destination. Always tug test your splices, this may get annoying if they pull out and you waste connectors, but it's worth it.
Few pics of my install with directions.
VolvoDirection.jpg
SwitchDirections.jpg
RelayDirection.jpg
Last edited by FrenicX; 08-12-2013 at 11:27 PM.
#3
08-10-2013, 05:53 PM
Links
Once the fan, relays, temp switch, and fuses are all wired, it was time to wire the switching relay into a 12v source so the fan won't keep running after the truck is off. It's not terrible that it does, I mean, for me since the temp switch is right by the radiator, it runs only for a few seconds after I turn the truck off. But on the 4.7, since the switch is much closer to the engine block, the fan may run for much longer. Especially if the high speed managed to kick on before the truck was turned off.
Here's the switching relay again, notice the source wire goes up into the fuse box. I used the Heated Seats fuse, which is wired as a switched item. They make small tabs that will go around a fuse so you can tap into it without problem, but since I don't have heated seats, I just used the fuse and soldered the wire from the relay to it, which is the next 2 pics.
0e8d027e-9c7f-488e-88e3-3f12e48da93e.jpg?t=1376183759
IMG_20130810_155844.jpg
IMG_20130810_155856.jpg
So that's my install, and let me tell you I love it. Works great. Basically don't have to ever worry about it. I keep some extra fuses and wire in the glovebox just in case, but I don't think I'll need it.
One thing though, is the temp switch.. I just wish it came on a few degrees earlier. But I will live with it the way it is. For my Hemi, I'm going to probably try to get the Mark VIII fan in there, just for reassurance. I will let you all know how that goes.
I'm going to put together the part numbers and links to all the info I used for this setup, in this post so it's up here with the rest.. I'm also going to make another video to show the install as it is now. If anyone has any suggestions on how I can make it clearer or if you see a mistake, please feel free to let me know so I can keep making it better.
Here's the switching relay again, notice the source wire goes up into the fuse box. I used the Heated Seats fuse, which is wired as a switched item. They make small tabs that will go around a fuse so you can tap into it without problem, but since I don't have heated seats, I just used the fuse and soldered the wire from the relay to it, which is the next 2 pics.
0e8d027e-9c7f-488e-88e3-3f12e48da93e.jpg?t=1376183759
IMG_20130810_155844.jpg
IMG_20130810_155856.jpg
So that's my install, and let me tell you I love it. Works great. Basically don't have to ever worry about it. I keep some extra fuses and wire in the glovebox just in case, but I don't think I'll need it.
One thing though, is the temp switch.. I just wish it came on a few degrees earlier. But I will live with it the way it is. For my Hemi, I'm going to probably try to get the Mark VIII fan in there, just for reassurance. I will let you all know how that goes.
I'm going to put together the part numbers and links to all the info I used for this setup, in this post so it's up here with the rest.. I'm also going to make another video to show the install as it is now. If anyone has any suggestions on how I can make it clearer or if you see a mistake, please feel free to let me know so I can keep making it better.
Last edited by FrenicX; 08-10-2013 at 09:29 PM.
#4
08-10-2013, 08:23 PM
Good start on the whole thing FrenicX, here are a couple of links.
Painless Fan Controllers
Painless 70 amp PWM Controller
The DCC controller is apparently very good but there appear to be a lot of issues in getting the builder's attention unless you have a Mustang. I tried quite a while ago and never succeeded, which is why I've been pushing a Painless controller or a DIY version.
Painless Fan Controllers
Painless 70 amp PWM Controller
The DCC controller is apparently very good but there appear to be a lot of issues in getting the builder's attention unless you have a Mustang. I tried quite a while ago and never succeeded, which is why I've been pushing a Painless controller or a DIY version.
#5
08-10-2013, 08:41 PM
#6
08-10-2013, 11:57 PM
#7
08-12-2013, 02:56 AM
Here are the links and part numbers I could gather:
Volvo Relay
RY563, 1398845, 3523872, 94429339, 2030210
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...500&cc=1433996
BMW Switches
91/99 celsius
61311378073, 1S4766, TS296, 88923757, SW940
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...375&cc=1433878
This BMW switch I just found is supposed to open low and high at earlier temperatures. I ordered one, so we will see. If it's true, it will be great for those with 180 T-Stats
80/88 celcius
61318361787
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...042&cc=1011452
MAXI Fuse inline fuse holder, if you can't find one at a parts store.
PAC-80 relay for 12v ignition switching, but you can get the secondary volvo relay that's on that shroud instead.
Ford Taurus Fan, from rockauto
F4DZ8C607C, F4DZ8C607CA, FO3115114
Ford part number: F4DZ8C607CA,
90-95 easy to come by junk yard item, Practically any vehicle that had the 3.8 in 90-95
Mark VIII or Mercury Cougar fan
The info in blue was borrowed from:
http://www.dfwstangs.net/tech/markvi.../markviii.html
This info was give to me by Matt W.
part # is F3LY8C607A
93-96 use p/n F3LY 8C607 A @ 245.80
The 93-96 spin 1100 rpms on low and 1850 on highspeed.
97's use p/n F7LZ 8C607 AB @ 196.23
98's use p/n F8LZ 8C607 AA @ 140.11
Th8LZ 8C607 AA @ 140.11
The 97-98 spin 1800 on low and 2225 on high.
They all look the same, all come with a shroud. The 93-96 spin slower according to Ford Motorsport Tech line.
Of the fans I got, one is much much faster, and clearly seems to have had the mpotor replaced because the three rivets are drilled out and random misc bolts used to reattach the replacement motor.
So both fan shrouds read F4SH 8C607 AA upper left, and F3LE-8146-AC lower left.
The motor of the faster one shows just a Siemens PM9027 number, while the slower one is Ford branded, but shows F4SH-8K621-AA.
Here are useful links to a couple other mark 8 and taurus fan threads.
http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=200028
http://www.dfwstangs.net/tech/markvi.../markviii.html
Volvo Relay
RY563, 1398845, 3523872, 94429339, 2030210
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...500&cc=1433996
BMW Switches
91/99 celsius
61311378073, 1S4766, TS296, 88923757, SW940
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...375&cc=1433878
This BMW switch I just found is supposed to open low and high at earlier temperatures. I ordered one, so we will see. If it's true, it will be great for those with 180 T-Stats
80/88 celcius
61318361787
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...042&cc=1011452
MAXI Fuse inline fuse holder, if you can't find one at a parts store.
PAC-80 relay for 12v ignition switching, but you can get the secondary volvo relay that's on that shroud instead.
Ford Taurus Fan, from rockauto
F4DZ8C607C, F4DZ8C607CA, FO3115114
Ford part number: F4DZ8C607CA,
90-95 easy to come by junk yard item, Practically any vehicle that had the 3.8 in 90-95
Mark VIII or Mercury Cougar fan
The info in blue was borrowed from:
http://www.dfwstangs.net/tech/markvi.../markviii.html
This info was give to me by Matt W.
part # is F3LY8C607A
93-96 use p/n F3LY 8C607 A @ 245.80
The 93-96 spin 1100 rpms on low and 1850 on highspeed.
97's use p/n F7LZ 8C607 AB @ 196.23
98's use p/n F8LZ 8C607 AA @ 140.11
Th8LZ 8C607 AA @ 140.11
The 97-98 spin 1800 on low and 2225 on high.
They all look the same, all come with a shroud. The 93-96 spin slower according to Ford Motorsport Tech line.
Of the fans I got, one is much much faster, and clearly seems to have had the mpotor replaced because the three rivets are drilled out and random misc bolts used to reattach the replacement motor.
So both fan shrouds read F4SH 8C607 AA upper left, and F3LE-8146-AC lower left.
The motor of the faster one shows just a Siemens PM9027 number, while the slower one is Ford branded, but shows F4SH-8K621-AA.
Here are useful links to a couple other mark 8 and taurus fan threads.
http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=200028
http://www.dfwstangs.net/tech/markvi.../markviii.html
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#8
08-12-2013, 07:35 PM
FrenicX, from the wiring diagram and your parts list (you appear to be using a single thermal switch), I'm assuming you installed the speed control as manually selected Off/Hi/Lo using either a rotary switch or possibly an SPDT (single pole double throw) switch (some of these also have a center detent OFF position). You did a real professional job with the whole layout, installation, as well as this write-up and if you wanted to add a bit more functionality, it wouldn't be hard. What I'm suggesting that you might want at some point is a semi-automatic system that can start in Lo or OFF and switch upwards as the heat increased & switch to Hi with the AC pump/clutch kicking in. I haven't done any detailed analysis of your parts list, but I think you already have all the high power stuff that you need can get to my suggested point with a couple of standard auto relays plus the specific temperature thermal switches & plumbing to hold them. If you're interested, I can sketch a block diagram showing that functionality.
#9
08-12-2013, 09:27 PM
FrenicX, from the wiring diagram and your parts list (you appear to be using a single thermal switch), I'm assuming you installed the speed control as manually selected Off/Hi/Lo using either a rotary switch or possibly an SPDT (single pole double throw) switch (some of these also have a center detent OFF position).
That's the really cool thing about the BMW or VW/AUDI temp switch, they are indeed a SPDT thermoswitches with a lower off position. The three BMW ones I salvaged are 91/99c, and the Audi ones were 95/104c. I didn't test the German ones, but I did bench test the BMW ones and they tend to switch a little higher than advertised, around 93/102 more like, with the High turning to low around 96 and the Low turning to off around 87.
There's supposedly a lower switching BMW one, I picked it up at rockauto and it should be here this week, supposed to be 80/88, WHich will be better for my 180 tstat.
My next step is to simply splice a wire from my AC connector to the Volvo In-2, (high fan) so that it kicks on high when AC is turned on. The only down side I see to this, is if the AC is left on when the truck is off, there's a possibility of killing the relay if it starts directly on high. SO adding another fuse inline between the Volvo relay and the motor should protect the relay.