Hey guys, for some reason your pics of the location make it look alot less cluttered than my Dodge. I have a heck of a time getting my hands in there espeacially with the bolts that hold it down.

An update.... The 2 Torx heads holding down the valve on my truck are completely seized we tried to loosen them even with the engine hot after being up to running temperature. Not sure what to do here, feels like they are going to snap off. Does anyone who has done this before know of any tricks to heat it up or something?

Another thing, my valve came with a metal gasket to bolt to the engine, but no gasket for the EGR tube, is the one on the truck reuseable, or should I order it in cuz I'll def need it?

 

Hmmm...that's new to me (Torx heads) mine just had a regular hex bolt to hold it in. it was really cramped getting back there, but with a universal joint and a wobble head you should be able to get it in there with not too much trouble.

I had to replace 2 gaskets when I put mine back in, neither one was metal, gottem from Felpro.


This one went on the bottom of the valve to the engine...

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And this one was small and went on the end of the tube that bolted to the valve itself...

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yeah, seems none of my guys at work want to touch this.... not sure what to do, I bring it somewhere else its gonna be expensive!

And ya looks like im going to have to order the gasket for the tube, did not come with it!

 

Any way you can get a pic of your set up so I can see what you are dealing with?

 

Would it be best for me to take off my intake, like what you showed on here? I cannot get this damn thing off, and it's really slugging the truck, unless I floor it of course, like I always do

 

If it eliminates 90% of the frustration, I would say pull the intake off. I've done it myself.

 

Before you do that, get yourself a new gasket set or tube of RTV & also get the torque specs for the intake bolts - you'll need both when you go to re-install. For all the hoses etc. that you need to disconnect and reconnect, I suggest getting a spray can of Silicone Lubricant, it makes the re-assembly of hoses, things with O-rings, etc a real breeze instead of a struggle.

 

I have the Haynes repair manual, I think it'll be in there, I'll check. Thanks for reminding me. I really don't want to take it to a shop, really don't. I'll just get some new gaskets

 

Removing the intake is a Piece of Cake, Just be sure to Clean the Engine of debris with an air hose and a shop vac before opening it up to the outside. And I would really suggest taping over the holes on the heads before Doing anything else after removing the intake.

 

Well, the only reason I had my intake off in the first place is because I was doing an engine bay clean up this summer. Like the other guys said, if you were to take out your intake it would make it very easy to access your EGR Valve, and taking out your intake (looking back) really isn't too bad of a job...but, like most other auto work...it's pays dividends to 1. Have a good idea of what you are doing and how to do it and 2. Having the right tools ahead of time to do what you need.

That being said, a Haynes Manual and a few YouTube videos explain pretty well how to take out your intake (if you decide to go that route). I know I'm probably skipping a step or two, or possibly leaving out at least one important detail, but to take out your Intake Manifold, here is the abbreviated version of what you have to do....oh, and keep your vacuum handy through the whole process and use it in between steps as you get more access to like crevices, to keep debris from falling in anywhere...

1. Disconnect Negative Battery Cable (if you want to save your radio settings I think they make a little battery thing that plugs into one of your 12V adapters)

2. Remove Air Hat from Throttle body and Air Filter Housing, and set it aside.

3. Detach Throttle and Cruise Control Servo cable from Throttle Body.

4. Disconnect, unbolt (10mm I think) coil packs from Spark plugs and set aside.

5. Label (so you know where they go) and then remove hoses going to Intake Manifold

6. Disconnect Oil Dip Stick tube from Intake

7. Disconnect Fuel Rail from Injectors (you don't have to disconnect the rail from the fuel line, but either way read the manual on this one, there will be some spillage, so have rags or something set up under the rail to catch what ever fuel spills out, it shouldn't be too much tho. A fuel rail disconnect tool is handy, but not needed as you can make one from a soda can or refrain from taking it off the fuel line all together... Lastly, if you can refrain from disconnecting the wiring harness from injectors you best leave them alone, because the clips that hold them on tend to break easily)

8. Disconnect and label all wiring harnesses attached to intake manifold.

9. Once you have everything cleared out of your way, vacuum once again before unbolting Intake Manifold.

10. When loosening bolts on Intake, they will not come all the way out, even after they are free from the engine. You can pull them all the way out with pliers if you really want to, but there is no need, plus it can be a pain to keep track of exactly where they go, but if you have to take them out, use some card board or something to stick them in, in the order you take them out. Once they are free of the engine, you can slide them up and down about a cm or two but they will stay attached to the intake.

11. Once all the bolts are freed from the engine, vacuum one last time and then you may have to pry a bit from the front to free the Intake manifold from the engine.

12. DO NOT JUST RIP OFF THE INTAKE ONCE IT'S LOOSE!!!

13. Once the intake is loose, feel behind it for both the hose connected in the back of it and also for the negative grounding strap. Detach both before completely removing intake.

14. Now you can completely remove intake and set it aside. Once out of the way you will have full access to removing your EGR Valve.

15. After replacing your EGR Valve and the gaskets that go along with it, re-installation of everything is just the reverse, but you should clean both the Intake and where it attaches to the engine of old gasket or RTV seal that was used before, replace the Intake gaskets and make sure you use the right kind of RTV silicone when putting it back together (you can look it up easy on the Permatex website, but off the top of my head I think it is the Ultra Grey that is used because it is resistant to fuel.)

16. Note that the Torque Specs for the Intake bolts is in INCH Pounds... 108 inch pounds I think (once again off the top of my head, and I don't feel like looking it up, but double check or correct me)

17. Put everything back together, say a prayer, and start her up.

I probably missed a few steps or forgot a couple important do or don'ts but it's late and I at least wanted to get this out to ya.

Hope it helps and anyone feel free to correct me where I am wrong or fill in anything I forgot.