I ended up taking it to a shop that has does work on my parents cars and my 01 Dakota in the past and have done great work, great prices. I already had the part, just charged me $90 for them to do it. My truck was acting up on the way to work yesterday, I took it in after work and got it back today. I now have to do my plugs and coils, 4 cylinder misfire. OUCH

 

Plugs and coils is a no brainer really. I haven't seen any hard data on it...but most of guys that know anything about anything here swear by sticking with the just the regular Copper Core Spark Plugs and to stay away from the high end, multi-spark Iridium types. Others have said they put the pricey ones in and thought they were better, who knows. But I've learned to trust a lot of experts here. I stuck with copper core plugs. When I started my project all I set out to do was swap my plugs and it led to her sitting in the drive way for 12 weeks. But when I first cranked her over, she started up with almost no hesitation at all, if that says anything.

You saying you gotta replace your Coil Packs as well? That's a new one to me. I'm sure it's had to be done on a few trucks here and there, but doesn't seem to common to me. Regardless, if you do have to swap em' I'd suggest trying to find a junker you and rip em' from and save the money from getting new ones. Not sure what they retail for anyway, but you can probably find em on the RockAuto website.

Best of luck to ya man.

 

My '05 service manual tells us: "CAUTION: The 4.7L V–8 engine is equipped with copper core ground electrode spark plugs. They must be replaced with the same type/number spark plug as the original. If another spark plug is substituted, preignition will result."
In other words, as the italian dominator said, don't go w/the high end plugs, stay w/the copper-core ones.

 

I got my egr replaced, but kinda slugging, so I replaced my plugs last night, and less slug. I took it to autozone, no CEL, but read an idle error, can't remember the code, but either vacuum leak, something else or the IACV, Idle Air Control Valve. I replaced it, $66, runs a bit better.
Now, it's about 90 degrees outside right now here in Michigan, motor is pretty warmed up. Should I be sitting at 1000-1100 RPMS in park? When in drive it's like 800-900.

 

Well i got an update guys, Got the EGR out! used a lil bit of heat with a brazing head. We got her out and swapped in within 3 hours! thanks for all your help.

 

No that's not right, 600-800 is normal. The idle air control valve handles the idle while the throttle body restrictor plate is fully closed. if the restrictor plate is stuck from closing all the way, it could cause it, or a faulty control valve. or possibly the EGR tube is open and letting air in after the throttle body.

 

I agree with FrenicX, 1000+ is too high. Have you considered that you might have an intake leak (I guess that's sort of what FrenicX is also suggesting)? I would try testing with a vacuum gauge to see what the reading is as well as the needle stability.

 

What do you mean the egr tube is open? How do I check if that is open or not?

 

Sometimes it'll be at 1200 rpms, and when I'm around 30 MPH, I'll let off the throttle and it seems as if it's still open or still accelerating. Like if cruise control was on, because the RPMS stay and my speed stays. I recorded a few videos on my phone and I coasted about a little over a quarter mile, at 30MPH and I can't remember the RPMS but it slowly slowly went down. But I coasted all the way. My Idle air control valve was bad, I put it in, let me tell you, doesn't go in easy. but it's on, remind you, I don't have a check engine light on either.

 

I stay mechanical to begin with and give the throttle body a good cleaning..carbon deposits on the butterfly valve can cause a funky idle/cruise control type of feeling when releasing the gas pedal. Kind of skimmed through the thread but hopefully I didn't go off topic!