...well I was going to use the barb fitting with clamps on the replacement rubber hose ends and the compression fitting on the steel ends...

 

When you cut off the old hose with it's crimp fitting, you're only left with the remainder of the original tubing. The slight flare I was suggesting, would do the job of a barbed end (it's not as good, but with a couple of clamps on the hose, it will all hold well - the hose is thick with braiding inside and will form well around the slight flare). This flare needs to be just small enough so that you can force the hose over it (this hose doesn't expand all that well, so if you make the flare too big, the hose won't go on) - I use silicone spray to help lubricate the rubber. I slide 2 clamps onto each tube, force the rubber hose over each flare, and finally tighten the 4 clamps and I'm done for 1 tube.

If you use a fitting that's barbed at one end and pressure fitting at the other, you'll end up with a very strong fit to the hose and a weak fit to the tube.

Another option is to use flare fittings on the ends of the two cut tubes and a short pre-made tube with mating flare connections. This can be done, but in my opinion, it's a lot more work. The tranny fluid tube is hard and difficult to flare (I've tried this option) and will sometimes split. Once you have the 2 flare fittings installed, you'll need to struggle with the short piece of interconnecting tube - the first connection is easy, lining up the second can be a real pain (almost as much as the flaring).

A final (and most expensive) option is to change the entire line. I looked into doing this on my Dak & found that the fittings were really hard to remove from the tranny (I'm assuming there's some amount of thread locker on them) I didn't want to damage the ends going into the transmission, so I chose to go with my recommended option & I was done inside an hour for a cost of 4 clamps and 3 feet of hose (I had a foot left over, I wanted to make sure I had enough).

All the above is only advise (I don't always listen to advise until I find out that maybe I should have) - what you finally do, is your shot, good luck.

 

I had a drip in one of the lines. Bought both new lines and jiffy-tite disconnect tool and was going to replace. When I saw how difficult the upper line would be to replace, I decided to follow these instuctions. Worked exactly as shown. Have not had any problems. I hope its ok to post the link?

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f107/r...-fixed-343472/

 

I saw that link too. It will work for sure. I was gonna do that to my lines as mine are leaking. I was gonna get high quality fuel line clamps however.

 

Works great, just be sure to be careful when cutting the crimped section. Don't hit the line. I used a small dremel with a cutoff wheel. I also used (2) clamps at each connection.

 

I found some small dremel blades at walmart that i will use for it. Two clamps seem perfect at each connection. It wont come off.

 

That's most likely a good fix, similar to what I've been recommending. I didn't use it probably because I'm too cautious - those small ribs on the tubes didn't satisfy me with their gripping ability and there wasn't enough room to put two clamps on that short length of tube. That's why I cut that piece off, made a small flare to hold the hose, shoved the hose on at least a couple of inches and put 2 clamps on like I wanted.