hi i have a 2005 dakota with the 4.7 that runs good but goes through spells as in sometimes it has a rough idle or ill be driving down the road fine then sometimes when i give it gas it starts bucking and rpms jump around and when i i hold it on the floor it slows down then i have to shut it off and turn it back on and its fine could go a hour before doing it again or just a minute later any input would be appreciated thanks in advance

list of parts already replaced
computer
crankshaft sensor (from dealer)
map
cam sen
o2 sensor
every coil
ignition
tps
iac
egr
basically everything but harness

 

Not much left there..... IAT, and ECT I think is it......

 

How old is the battery?

 

i also replaced the iat and ect but thanks for the input i knew there was others i couldnt remember and as of the battery im not sure how old it is but it past when had tested

 

I know you just forgot to put on your list of replaced parts Correct ?.....Plugs ?
Any Codes ?

 

yeah i put plugs in and its throwing codes
p0300 multiple missfire
p0325 knock sensor 1
p0330 knock sensor 2
p0344 camshaft position sensor circuit intermitted
p0340 no camshaft position sensor circuit failure
p0420 catalyst efficiency below normal (bank 1)

 

1. Check into Chrysler TSB 18-015-09 for a Powertrain Control Module (PCM) reflash.

2. Scope check the Crank Position Sensor (CKP) and Cam Position Sensor (CMP) signals and see if they are in sync. Compare to a known good signal. If they are good but out of sync, check the CMP pulse wheel and the valve timing for a skipped timing chain.

P0340= Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Fail B1 S1 (Drivers Side)
P0344= Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Intermittent B1 S1.

All most all of the fixes replaced the Cam Sensor.

Hope this helps,
WvChamp

 

You know, it is amazing how much havoc flaky battery or a loose connection can cause. The battery may show good voltage and may pass a load test, yet still be bad. Personally, I would not throw any more money or parts into this truck until it has a brand new and fresh fully charged battery and I've traced power connections and plugs. Even if I had inklings that the existing battery was good, I would try a new or even a different used one anyways. You've obviously spent alot of money and time on other parts already. It is unfortunate you haven't replaced the battery. Me... I would have done the battery FIRST.
Once that new battery is in, the next thing to consider is your starting sequence. If you just get in and crank the key, there can be problems. Patience. Turn the key to on and pause. Wait for 5 to 10 seconds before starting the engine. Those seconds give the electrical power stream a chance to stabilize and for the PCM to initialize all of the systems and sensors. Listen to the buzzes and whirls and dingdongs and observe the lights going on/off the dash. When all of that has stopped changing and is stable, then turn the key further and start the engine.

If you have that new battery in and it all runs great for awhile then goes glitchy again, ... consider a closer look at testing and/or replacing the alternator next. It could be an intermittent failing alternator. What I am getting at, is unless the power supply (battery, alternator) is in good condition and providing stable clean power - all of the sensors and the PCM will get glitchy and things get really weird. Make sure with absolute confidence that you have good stable clean power first. Then look at the instruments and sensors. Then look at fuel supply. (pump ok?)

May help, may not. Sometimes it is the simpler things at the root that are causing seemingly complex problems.