He keeps blowing up the coil. That will most certainly give him a misfire.

I have seen this particular issue before a few times, but, so far, no one has come up with a reason for WHY the coils are blowing up........

 

I'll try to get all the pertinent info together and create a mega thread a just post a link to that in the other threads. I found a video last night that has a guy trouble shooting this very issue, just on coil 7. I'm leaving towards a the control write is grounding out. But I need to get a test light tonight after work.

 

For any one interested I found this video. Nice trouble shooting on this very issue. (The guy is also bi-lingual and repeats all instructions in spanish, which is awesome for people that are not english speakers.)

I have not gotten around to trying any thing else yet since my last update. Its been cold and getting dark early. But I'm off the rest of the week so I will be going at it tomarrow.

 

Good video, but the conclusion he reaches for this truck is a new PCM. You already tried that, which tends to point to wiring.

I'm curious - the coil.... does it have any burn marks?

 

The test method is more what I was interested in.

other than the whole thing exploding from the inside (like the inside epoxy melts, then the coil cracks open and it leaks out.) not that I can really see. I'll post a picture of the latest casualty when I get off work. (after 5pm central time)

 

Okay I have not gotten a test light yet, but I used my volt meter and the constant wire is reading solid 14.8 like it is supposed to, the interrupt wire never went below 6.5 volts, and fluctuated up to 10.5v Is it supposed to have a constant small charge or should it be 0 until needed?

 

The multi-colored signal wire from the PCM (not the constant system-voltage red wire from the IPM/fuse block through the Auto-Shutdown Relay) only sends a signal to the coil at the intended time of spark. I have found that using a meter for these types of intermittent-signal circuits can give a misleading indication due to the short-duration of the signal (the meter is almost always not "fast" enough to display the true on/off nature of the signal), and that's why a test light works best for this situation. During testing, I would first test a cylinder known to be working properly, so you know what indications on your testing equipment you should be looking for on the suspect cylinder.

 

Okay so I got the test light, it just flickered really fast on every coil I tested, so I then checked continuity and it was there, so as a last ditch effort I snipped the drive wire on from the ecm and from the plug, spliced in a new wire, moved the coil from cylnder 4 over to 1 and the only coffee being now is for cylinder 4 because there is no coil there. So after all this time it appears to have simply been a bad wire. I have to get a new coil tomorrow probably order it tonight so more like Monday or Tuesday, but I'll update more after that.

 

If that solves it..... that would be great. Did you test resistance across that wire, and compare it to another one?

 

I did not even think to test the resistance. What should that range be I wonder? I bet its in the FSM.