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program a new computer with out dealer?

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Old Oct 23, 2020 | 02:51 PM
  #11  
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Wonder if you had coolant in that cylinder causing the misfire/coil codes? Could coolant shorting the plug cause the coil to burn up?
 
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Old Oct 23, 2020 | 03:08 PM
  #12  
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I have no idea lol. The plug looked nice and clean for being about 3-4 years old. I also changed the plug and still had the issue. If I have to put a new engine in it I should be good for another 185K miles though lol. (thats what it has on it now. I had the trans rebuilt a year or so ago, maybe 10-15K on it since the rebuild. I don't drive much.)

I do know that I'm losing about a 1-1.5Q of oil between oil changes (I use full synthetic and go about 5-7K between changes because I don't drive very far. I use the mobile one that says its good for 10K miles. I check the level and add oil at around 3-3500 miles though.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2020 | 05:08 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by David Kalinowski
I got the new ECM and it did not help. Imediatly after plugging it in and starting up I got the same exact code for the same exact coil and it was again on a brand new coil. I then had an even worse thing happen, the engine made a weird weird sound (my son who was inside described it as sounding like a chain saw, but for me out side with the truck it sounded more high pitched and metallic) the engine just stopped, exhaust smoke was comming out from the passenger side of the engine but kinda low, so I dont know if I blew a head, some kind of gasket, exhaust manifold, or bend a rod, or what, but now it tries to turn over and then just dies. So yea, I have to have it towed to a repair shop now to get a proper idea of whats wrong with it. Then I'll determine if I want to junk it or put more money into it.. part of me hopes the engine is shot so I have an excuse to get a 4.7; H.O. and drop in there.
Probably a dumb question, but you did disconnect the negative on the battery before swapping the ECM, right?
 
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Old Oct 24, 2020 | 11:06 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by David Kalinowski
I got the new ECM and it did not help. Imediatly after plugging it in and starting up I got the same exact code for the same exact coil and it was again on a brand new coil. I then had an even worse thing happen, the engine made a weird weird sound (my son who was inside described it as sounding like a chain saw, but for me out side with the truck it sounded more high pitched and metallic) the engine just stopped, exhaust smoke was comming out from the passenger side of the engine but kinda low, so I dont know if I blew a head, some kind of gasket, exhaust manifold, or bend a rod, or what, but now it tries to turn over and then just dies. So yea, I have to have it towed to a repair shop now to get a proper idea of whats wrong with it. Then I'll determine if I want to junk it or put more money into it.. part of me hopes the engine is shot so I have an excuse to get a 4.7; H.O. and drop in there.
BUMMER, Thanks for letting me know how it went.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2020 | 12:31 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by erau
Probably a dumb question, but you did disconnect the negative on the battery before swapping the ECM, right?
Yea that was disconnected for like two weeks, I even disconnected the positive terminal before installing the new ecm.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2020 | 12:29 AM
  #16  
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Put the new PCM in from carcomputerexchange and haven't had CEL light since. Found the ground wire bundle was bare, fixed that and drilled some airflow holes into the PCM mounting bracket. The PCM has a heat sink on the backside, the heat has to have someplace to go. The more air flow the better behind the computer, plain as that. Truck shifts better, no transmission codes, so far so good. Also put a set of DUI 35000 volt coils in it. Man alive, that thing will slap you naked and hide your clothes.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2020 | 09:04 AM
  #17  
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@nascar_red Glad to hear that you got going again. I'm going to be checking my wires this week.

I've been asked to condense my threads, so I'm linking to the original. https://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen...oil-1-a-3.html
 
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