First Question of probably many
Yep...learning something. I use YouTube quite a bit to help learn how to do something on my vehicles. I prefer multiple videos on the same topic that show them doing it. Helps to find the individuals that really know what they are doing, rather than faking it.
100%!! Part of the fun is reading the comments on the videos from the so called "Jockeys". The ones that will thumbs down a video because something they didn't care for. And it's a great idea to watch several videos on the same repair procedure. (That's how I learned the way I was taught to do brakes would be 100% fine down south... But I learned a new method that works better up here in the 'rust/salt' belt.)
Have a great day! We're planning on doing more work to the Dakota tomorrow. (Radiator, oil change, O2 sensors...and if time? We'll start the process of removing the transfer case...that should be interesting.)
S-
I'm not too proud to admit I'll attend the University of YouTube. I can usually do the job but if I'm not familiar with that particular vehicle, watching someone else can show hidden bolts and save a lot of time..
S-
Mini Rant:
Okay, Moving this project forward and this is more or less an update then a question.
Removed the radiator. (Who in the wide world of my expanding waistband designed that fan shroud???) Found the inside 100% BROWN liquid!! from all the stop leak the last owner dropped into it. When we inspected it I did look in the radiator. Found nice green coolant that looked pretty fresh. By the time we got it into that work area, it already leaked out more then a gallon! We're going to pull and replace the thermostat and pour some distilled water down the upper hose to flush out some of the brown crud. (we do not have a hose or running water in our work area) Thankfully NAPA sells a thermostat with housing combo. Just need that and the gasket, lower hose and clamps!
Also I have a replacement radiator support bar coming in soon. Might do the 'cheat' and notch the bottom out and then finagle it into place. (We hit the base with a wet dry vac. About 3#'s worth of rusty metal and assorted leaves and trash. All clean now! :-)
Went to replace the O2 sensors. The one that was busted off at the bung? Came out wicked easy! Replacement is in. The drivers side...grrrrrr... Looks to have been replaced by a gorilla. Cross threaded. I'll have to get a thread chaser and clean out the threads. It's pretty sad. We're using 'used' OEM parts we pulled off the junkers. I know I know..... But my budget is evaporating quickly.
Oil change done! 10w30 and a Mopar Filter!. I had the wife start the truck while I checked for leaks. Bottom end sounds like a diesel engine. After a few minutes it quieted down quite a bit. We checked the oil pressure as mentioned in a past post. Hits about 60-70lbs when cold. The ol' girl is tired. And let's not talk about the oil pan
I started knocking the crust off the pan. It's about 1/3 'de-crusted'. A few sections on the bottom are paper thin for remaining metal. Thought I saw it seeping out oil, but just a trick of the light. We're going to finish cleaning it off and give the thin sections a treatment of JB Weld that we've found works great for oil pan leaks. (Product called "Tank Weld") Hopefully we can buy some time and replace the pan come spring time.
Wife got sneaky while I was fighting with the O2 sensors. She installed the replacement 'mini door' behind the drivers door. Looks 100% better then the rusted out hulk that we removed. Sure the truck is 'white' and the door is 'silver'.. But at this point? who cares!
I'll rant more later on. Call this a running 'build' update thread.... I'll be hitting the pick and pull yard for a few odd's and ends. Need the transmission retaining 'clips' for the lines into the radiator...Fan shroud....Hope to find a decent spare tire as well. I'll post a couple of general questions as well.
Thanks all!
S-
Okay, Moving this project forward and this is more or less an update then a question.
Removed the radiator. (Who in the wide world of my expanding waistband designed that fan shroud???) Found the inside 100% BROWN liquid!! from all the stop leak the last owner dropped into it. When we inspected it I did look in the radiator. Found nice green coolant that looked pretty fresh. By the time we got it into that work area, it already leaked out more then a gallon! We're going to pull and replace the thermostat and pour some distilled water down the upper hose to flush out some of the brown crud. (we do not have a hose or running water in our work area) Thankfully NAPA sells a thermostat with housing combo. Just need that and the gasket, lower hose and clamps!
Also I have a replacement radiator support bar coming in soon. Might do the 'cheat' and notch the bottom out and then finagle it into place. (We hit the base with a wet dry vac. About 3#'s worth of rusty metal and assorted leaves and trash. All clean now! :-)
Went to replace the O2 sensors. The one that was busted off at the bung? Came out wicked easy! Replacement is in. The drivers side...grrrrrr... Looks to have been replaced by a gorilla. Cross threaded. I'll have to get a thread chaser and clean out the threads. It's pretty sad. We're using 'used' OEM parts we pulled off the junkers. I know I know..... But my budget is evaporating quickly.
Oil change done! 10w30 and a Mopar Filter!. I had the wife start the truck while I checked for leaks. Bottom end sounds like a diesel engine. After a few minutes it quieted down quite a bit. We checked the oil pressure as mentioned in a past post. Hits about 60-70lbs when cold. The ol' girl is tired. And let's not talk about the oil pan
I started knocking the crust off the pan. It's about 1/3 'de-crusted'. A few sections on the bottom are paper thin for remaining metal. Thought I saw it seeping out oil, but just a trick of the light. We're going to finish cleaning it off and give the thin sections a treatment of JB Weld that we've found works great for oil pan leaks. (Product called "Tank Weld") Hopefully we can buy some time and replace the pan come spring time.Wife got sneaky while I was fighting with the O2 sensors. She installed the replacement 'mini door' behind the drivers door. Looks 100% better then the rusted out hulk that we removed. Sure the truck is 'white' and the door is 'silver'.. But at this point? who cares!
I'll rant more later on. Call this a running 'build' update thread.... I'll be hitting the pick and pull yard for a few odd's and ends. Need the transmission retaining 'clips' for the lines into the radiator...Fan shroud....Hope to find a decent spare tire as well. I'll post a couple of general questions as well.
Thanks all!
S-
One other problem with your radiator is that it has green coolant. Mopar uses the orange stuff and it's best to stick with it.
Otherwise, good to hear that it is coming along. Nice to have a wife that's handy with parts replacements.
Otherwise, good to hear that it is coming along. Nice to have a wife that's handy with parts replacements.
As for the coolant? Odd that you mention it. After several go-arounds with the parts houses. We've decided to go with Prestone and the HOAT OAT compatible. It's supposed to be one step up from the usual generic 'green' coolant. (And it's recommended for the Dakota on their research page.) We checked for the 'orange'. (oddly enough we went factory on our 2010 Journey... That stuff is colored off-yellow??) I did find the 'orange', but it was only on the shelf as a 'pre-mix'. And I hate spending twice as much for a product that uses 1/2 a gallon of distilled water. Yes we buy full concentrate and mix it ourselves.
We're going to flush out what we can out of the Dakota for a fresh start.
I hope it doesn't create to many issues. Then again this is such a basket case already, any fresh fluid is bound to be an improvement.
S-
I guess colors are a dye thing. But, the HOAT formula is what you want.
2005 FSM pg 0-4: "The use of aluminum cylinder blocks, cylinder heads, and water pumps requires special corrosion protection. Mopar Antifreeze/Coolant, 5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula (MS-9769), or the equivalent ethylene glycol base coolant with organic corrosion inhibitors (called HOAT, for Hybrid Organic Additive Technology) is recommended. This coolant offers the best engine cooling without corrosion when mixed with 50% Ethylene Glycol and 50% distilled water
to obtain a freeze point of -37°C (-35°F). If it loses color or becomes contaminated, drain, flush, and replace with fresh properly mixed coolant solution."
2005 FSM pg 0-4: "The use of aluminum cylinder blocks, cylinder heads, and water pumps requires special corrosion protection. Mopar Antifreeze/Coolant, 5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula (MS-9769), or the equivalent ethylene glycol base coolant with organic corrosion inhibitors (called HOAT, for Hybrid Organic Additive Technology) is recommended. This coolant offers the best engine cooling without corrosion when mixed with 50% Ethylene Glycol and 50% distilled water
to obtain a freeze point of -37°C (-35°F). If it loses color or becomes contaminated, drain, flush, and replace with fresh properly mixed coolant solution."








