Yes, the stuff we picked up is "HOAT". We're going to likely flush out the entire system. All that brown gunk... Probably was a mixture of stop leak for the radiator and a whole bunch of gunky rusty coolant sludge. We've also got a replacement radiator support assembly coming in. I'd love to meet the person that designed that little slice of heaven. Let's make a support bar that is darn near impossible to remove and install unless you rip the entire front end apart!! The "YouTube University" gave us a few ideas. Most involve power tools! Yeah!!!!

On the update side: I epoxied the fan shroud back together yesterday. Ours gave up and cracked apart when we removed it. Couldn't source one locally, so we fixed ours. Wanted to spend more time on it Tuesday on my day off. Just wasn't feeling up to it that day. Very cold, windy, and a heavy mixture of rain and sleet/hail. We still do not have the heat in our work space yet. (I refilled the propane Tuesday evening...so we can be somewhat warm) I'd rather put it off until my next day off, and not catch a worse cold.

Parts we did obtain:
Coolant outlet with thermostat, 8 Champion factory spark plugs (Cause I do not trust the last owner when he claims he already replaced them...), Radiator hose(s) and clamps, O2 sensor thread chaser... Now all I need is the time and moderate warmth to assemble it. Oh, and we had a few extra keys cut at our local hardware store. This 2005 does not have the 'immobilizer' active (Or maybe it wasn't part of the package when new...) I'll still need to hit the security company in Syracuse and have them get me the 4 pin code and setup a key for the keyless entry. Once I have the PIN? I can use my scan tool and do it myself. They charge $50 a key to program/mate to a car. However they are decent and will share the PIN with me. The key we obtained with this little truck has keyless entry, but it's currently not working. (Battery's new and it's got voltage...but it doesn't do anything.)

That's the updates for now! Have a super day!

S-

 

Since it's a 2005 and probably has 100-150k miles, if you're unsure about the spark plugs, you might want to replace the bottom set and the ignition wiring, too. Both are past their recommended maintenance interval (assuming it wasn't already done).

 

The 2005 is an HO? I thought they didn't come out till 2008? I agree to swap the plugs though, sounds like you've made great progress!

 

sorry...I have a 2011 4.7L. I forgot that the engine changed in the middle of the 3d gen.

May have already heard this tip, but use a thin-walled spark plug socket in a cold engine (meaning hasn't run in several hours). A Craftsman socket isn't thin-walled. (don't ask how I know about the cold engine or the Craftsman) I used the store brand from AutoZone.

 

I'll keep the spark plug socket in mind. Currently we always have used my old "Snap On" set from when I was a mechanic back in the early 90's.

I'm also planning on likely needing to add spark plug 'heli coils' as it's a safe bet if the last owner did in fact change the plugs, If the O2 sensor is any example of his ability? A few are likely to be cross threaded.

Quote:
you might want to replace the bottom set and the ignition wiring, too. Both are past their recommended maintenance interval (assuming it wasn't already done).
:end Quote

Kinda lost me on this one. I've not worked with coil over plug before. Which area are you suggesting we should look into? The plug 'boot'?

On the lighter side. Brought my cell phone scan tool in with me today at work. I'll post all the DTC's it had when I scanned it the first time. Sure it will bring a few laughs to the room!

U0100 ABS-Lost comm
C2100 ABS-Voltage low
C2206 ABS-Vehicle Configuration mismatch
B1648 CGW- Right Rear Turn Lamp circuit high
B210D CGW-Battery voltage low
B2305 CGW-Wiper park switch circuit high
B166C CGW-Left trailer tow lamp circuit high
B1670 CGW-Right trailer tow lamp circuit high
C1404 CGW-Transfer case range position sensor circuit low (intermittent)
B2213 MIC/CCN-Cabin compartment node/cluster internal
B222C MIC/CCN-Vehicle configuration not programmed
U0019 ORC-CAN B bus (air bag)
U1414 ORC-Implausible/missing ECU network configuration data
U1415 ORC-Implausible/missing vehicle configuration data
P0137 PCM-Oxygen sensor 1/2 circuit low
P0141 PCM-Oxygen sensor 1/2 heater performance
P2302 PCM-Ignition coil 1 secondary circuit-insufficient ionization
P2308 PCM-Ignition coil 3 ^^^^^^^
P2314 PCM-Ignition coil 5 ^^^^^^^
P2320 PCM-Ignition coil 7 ^^^^^^^^
P1684 TCM-Battery was disconnected.

I reset EVERYTHING and the only codes that returned would be the random transfer case error, and the O2 sensor codes.

The last owner said he was trying to chase down a misfire. So he supposedly changed the spark plugs, and was planning on doing the fuel injectors. Here's the rub! He ordered in the injectors and looks like he installed 2 replacements. These where eBay 'upgrade' injectors. I ran the item number and found it was still 'active'. The last year supported for those injectors on a 4.7 engine? Would be year 2000. So we're looking also at probably 2 incorrect flow rated injectors. If I have to pull the fuel rails? I'll order in a full set of 'rebuilt' injectors and get it over with.

From what I suspect, the cause of the misfires and the "secondary circuit-insufficient ionization" on a large number of cylinders- Might just be down to old fuel. It was almost on empty when we purchased it. And we parked it on a slight incline. We had to roll it down to level ground to get the pump to prime- It was that low! (We put 5 gallons of fresh gas into it... After it coughed back to life it seems to be starting a lot easier now.)

So this is what we're dealing with from an electrical standpoint. I feel most of these errors will self correct once the basics are completed and the fresh gas has a chance to really 'clean' things up. Plus most of these codes probably are due to the battery being a pile of crap. That was the only good thing the last owner did. He put a new battery into it. (Of course he never installed a battery hold down......I'll have to install a universal one)

S-

 

After 2007, the 4.7 engines had 16 spark plugs; an upper, and a lower set. Since yours is a 2005, you only have 8 plugs. I still recommend replacing all of them.

Most of those codes can be caused by the battery being removed, so as long as nothing else pops up, you should be in the clear. Interesting how all the coils on one bank were having issues, almost like there was a problem with the ground somewhere.

 

Excellent observation. I missed that. 1,3,5,7. All on the drivers side. Hummm.... Something to mull over if the codes return. Would it be a grounding issue I wonder? Did Dodge use a +12VDC feed to the coils and then a ground side switched in the PCM? Interesting. I'll have to dig out the wiring and give it a look.

I'm also keeping in mind the last owner probably did set most of those codes when he was screwing with it. It's bad enough he installed 2 injectors that where not correct for the engine and have the wrong flow rates.

But I will 100% check that bank if we have any surprises. Due to the aforementioned DMV issues with the title transfer it won't be going on the road for several more weeks. So that's just time to figure this stuff out.

Cool! Thanks!

S-

 

Update time!!

Busy day yesterday working on the ol' gal!

Finished installation of the replacement used (can't afford new) transfer case. Refilled transfer case with ATF +4 and it does not leak. (The old one we removed had leaks). Tested the transfer case motor, and it seems to be fine for the moment. I could not find any documented torque spec for the front prop shaft to the 'cup' on the transfer case. I went 22-24 ft lbs. (no lock-tite.) Not sure if that's good or bad? But I told the wife we would recheck it a few weeks after we get it on the road in use to ensure it's still seated and snug. Same for the rear drive shaft. When I spin that around to do the rear brakes, we'll correctly torque and Loctite the prop shaft to the differential flange.

Replacement of the radiator completed. Due to no running water in our work area, we got creative on trying to flush out the block and heater core. We flushed it out the thermostat hole. The water that came out looked like dead coffee. Flushed it out by just pouring water into the upper hose. Then got creative and stuffed the wet dry vac hose into it. That sucked about another 1/2 gallon+ out of the block! (Major Yuckage) New thermostat/housing installed. Had to reuse the original lower radiator hose. The napa hose was about 2" to short. And yes. I said "Original". That hose was the one from 2005! (Expect it to be changed out as soon as we can source the correct one.) Radiator refilled with 50/50 Prestone 'All Car" brand that is HOAT compatible.

Most likely we will do another 'dump and fill' of the coolant come spring time to get more of the trash out of the system.

Ran a thread chaser down the O2 bung. Replacement O2 sensors are installed. We ran the engine for about 5 minutes and didn't get a check engine light for 'O2 heater' problems. I must say though, for a truck that was advertised as having a bad 'roaming misfire'- It's running quite smoothly once we dropped in a couple of cans of injector cleaner and about 8 gallons of fresh gas.

Ordered in the rear muffler and pipe assembly. (Rock auto for the win). And a set of wheel cylinders as the rear cylinders are weeping fluid. Will purchase the self-adjuster kits and hardware kits locally.

Tomorrow I'm planning on pulling the front brakes apart. We had to rotate the drive shaft to position the 'cup' onto the prop shaft and noted both front tires do NOT want to spin anywhere near freely. I think the front brakes are badly rusted up. We're hopeful the rotors will clean up after driving it around. However, the calipers are pretty crusty. Usually, I can remove the calipers and wire brush off the majority of the crust and also file down the spot where the caliper 'ears' ride to prevent rust from seizing things up. Living in upstate NY we are very used to the brake pads getting rust jacked up and then everything drags.

Also, on the schedule will be cutting out and replacement of the lower core support for the radiator. Kinda peeved at the company that sold me the replacement. They took an extra 10 days to ship due to 'system problems'. (Would have been nice to be told so I could use a different source). We went to the 'university of YouTube' and watched a few replacement videos. Gave me an excuse to buy another angle grinder :-D Told the wife we'd have to cut the old one out and 'notch' the new one in. I'm hopeful that we can remove the upper radiator mount and slide the replacement lower core support in place. Just need to go up about an inch.

Might do the spark plugs as well.... Depends on how much time if left in the day. The rest of the time will be loading up the core charge side door and transfer case. Run those back on Sunday and that will pay for a set of calipers if we need 'em. Otherwise, it will go into the 'tire fund'.

That's the updates!! I'll admit it was very exciting to see it run without a check engine light! (we'll see how long that lasts....)

S-

 

Well Thanksgiving with the family is over. I spent most of the time playing with the brakes on the Dakota.

Here's the skinny. The last owner fancied himself as a 'mechanic'. He installed the RF Caliper with a severe twist in the brake hose. That indentation you can see with the hose, would be where it was rubbing into the mounting bracket. I actually removed the caliper and flipped it back to the correct position and it aligned up 100% correct. He had to have forced the caliper onto the mount for it to get such a severe kink. The hose is worn almost to the inner workings.

Before anyone comments? The frame is coated in crust. Welcome to upstate NY!! The frame is pretty solid, just covered in surface rust and crust. Before this hits the road, it will get a complete wash down with 'Fluid Film Black'. We use it on all our cars and my Journey once a year to keep the rust at bay. (It won't stop it, but does slow it down.)

Both caliper's of course didn't care for the bleeder screws being tampered with. And they snapped clean off. I'm actually okay with that. Both calipers are very crusty and didn't respond with my attempt to push the pistons back into the caliper. The donor Dakota in the scrap yard has 2 new calipers. So if they are still there on Sunday? We're going to do some shopping... The front faces of the rotors look great, but the rear of the rotors are crap. About 30% usable surface and the rest is crust. The LF caliper didn't have any anti rattle clips for the pads, and the ends of the pads where broken off the steel backing. The RF did have anti rattle clips, but severely rust seized in the bracket. I'll have to see what can be recycled and what needs to be 'new'. (yes, pads and shoes will be new, along with all hardware)

Any hints on how to get the rotors off? I nailed 'em both with my small sledge hammer. (We call it "Thor Junior") Didn't budge. I put a chisel between the RF rotor and the caliper bracket and gave it a few swipes. No movement. Currently both rotors are soaking in PB blaster in the hopes it brakes down some of the rust. I'll probably have to apply some heat to the rotor face to see if that helps brake the rust bond.

Rear brake wheel cylinders are going to be here probably on Saturday. We're making solid progress, but the conditions of the brakes have me concerned. Planning on doing a rear brake job as well. My inspection was only on the RR side. (The LR side is sticking out of the work area against the brace for the garage door, so no access until I spin it around). That inspection showed brake shoes down to about 30% and the wheel cylinder is leaky. Another reason I attempted to get the front bleeders open up. Planning on a flush and refill of the brake fluid once all is tended to. As noted we'll be reusing the rear brake drums after I clean things up. Heat glazed... But looks like it will clean up with some scuffing.

 

Had to spin my head around to try and figure out the orientation - is that the actual brake line that is kinked? Or just the flexible hose? Either way, she looks a little pooched.

You could take the bearing off and replace both it and the rotor at the same time. Odds are if you have to wail away on the rotorb, the hub/bearing is taking a lot of the shock loads. You'd need 1 32mm axle nut socket for the half shaft, and then the 3 19mm bolts to pop er off.

The other option is just to keep tenderizing the rotor. Mine required a couple righteous swings of a 5lb sledge many moons ago. I have an air hammer these days, which makes life sooooo much easier.