HELP! Dealer says to "pick out whatever I want" in response to my defective 2012 Crew
This is a great point and something that I have been thinking about constantly as well. It makes more sense financially, to keep the Durango that we have... but paying $100 more for brand new also makes sense to me! I have done numerous calculations concerning our monthly income and expenses and I we can afford the $480. The question is, will the dealer be able to get me to $480 WITH the extended warranty.
I completely understand where you're coming from and I sincerely appreciate your insight. Dang, when you mention needs vs wants, the answer is clear! Stick with what I have already. But then again, leather, nav, the extra safety features, etc. all sounds so good! Did I mention that I have been driving a Prius for the past 6 years?!
Thanks Wylie! I think you have helped make my decision! More money is more money, regardless if it's a good deal or not.
I completely understand where you're coming from and I sincerely appreciate your insight. Dang, when you mention needs vs wants, the answer is clear! Stick with what I have already. But then again, leather, nav, the extra safety features, etc. all sounds so good! Did I mention that I have been driving a Prius for the past 6 years?!
Thanks Wylie! I think you have helped make my decision! More money is more money, regardless if it's a good deal or not.
Do they have a lesser equiped, 2012 or 2013 that would better fit your objectives? The first one you bought (used) was a little more than you budgeted. Now, it sounds like you are looking at spending even more, approximately 40% more than your original budget. I don't think you would have done that on the first one, so....maybe you shouldn't do that on this one either.
If you have the Maximum care on the first one you bought, why not just keep it? If everything is fixed, no harm..no fowl. If they replace the bumper, it's like bumping into the pole never happened. If the battery fixes the starting issue, then that is a non-issue. I wonder if you may have gotten a little too excited at the prospect of getting a higher-spec, brand new vehicle.
I'm just saying, it's easy for us to say "go for it". We don't have to make the payments. You are the one with another baby on the way, maybe you need to take a deep breath and look at your needs....not your wants. Then make a logical decision that will be financially sound for your family.
If you have the Maximum care on the first one you bought, why not just keep it? If everything is fixed, no harm..no fowl. If they replace the bumper, it's like bumping into the pole never happened. If the battery fixes the starting issue, then that is a non-issue. I wonder if you may have gotten a little too excited at the prospect of getting a higher-spec, brand new vehicle.
I'm just saying, it's easy for us to say "go for it". We don't have to make the payments. You are the one with another baby on the way, maybe you need to take a deep breath and look at your needs....not your wants. Then make a logical decision that will be financially sound for your family.
Thanks again for the helpful info, Chris! The Max Care plan with the $150 deductible is the extended warranty that I currently have on the 2012 that I currently own. I would be looking into getting an extended bumper to bumper warranty with the purchase of the 2013, however that estimated $30 extra per month pushes me over might budget and I am not comfortable with that right now, especially since we have our third baby on the way! My original budget was for a $350 monthly payment, but I decided to get the Maximum Care Warranty with the 2012 we bought and that bumped up our payment to $380 a month. When pricing out this new 2013, they were able to get me to $489 per month, but without the extended warranty. I am not familiar with all the different warranty packages but being that I have already experienced some electrical issues within the first week of owning my Durango, I know that an extended bumper to bumper warranty would help me sleep better at night.
As of right now, they are offering me the 2013 at a high $33k or a low $34k.... I can't remember the exact figure. I talked with my sales guy yesterday and advised him that if they were able to get me to $480 per month, including the Maximum Care Warranty, I would sign... but he keeps insisting that they don't have any more room to negotiate! Not sure if I believe that but it seems as though he is sticking to his story. He said that with the extended warranty, I could expect to pay around $510-$515 a month. I know it's not much over the $480 that I'm trying to get to but the thought of paying over $500 for a car payment makes me a lil sick to my stomach... and the wife, even more so! Maybe I can purchase the warranty later... but I'd have to find out how much it would be. I'm sure it'd be more, no?! Any ideas.....?!
Thanks in advance!
As of right now, they are offering me the 2013 at a high $33k or a low $34k.... I can't remember the exact figure. I talked with my sales guy yesterday and advised him that if they were able to get me to $480 per month, including the Maximum Care Warranty, I would sign... but he keeps insisting that they don't have any more room to negotiate! Not sure if I believe that but it seems as though he is sticking to his story. He said that with the extended warranty, I could expect to pay around $510-$515 a month. I know it's not much over the $480 that I'm trying to get to but the thought of paying over $500 for a car payment makes me a lil sick to my stomach... and the wife, even more so! Maybe I can purchase the warranty later... but I'd have to find out how much it would be. I'm sure it'd be more, no?! Any ideas.....?!
Thanks in advance!
Typically the prices on the contracts do not go down but spending a couple of hundred more later may be better than spending less now if it will become a hardship for you. Further, contracts get prorated from the time and mileage you buy them if you ever have to cancel. I bring this up because if you don't need a loaner if you are in for service and you don't do extensive traveling, the service contract will not benefit you much the first 3/36. So if your vehicle gets stolen or totaled during that time the service contract will be pro-rated upon cancellation and it will cost you plenty. If you never purchased the contract yet, it would cost you nothing because you don't have a plan to cancel, thus saving you the funds you would have lost in pro-ration.
That is why in my previous post I talked about the actual cost of the contract. If you are not getting a great deal on it now, it will put you over your budget, and you have the ability to purchase it later in payments interest free, maybe getting the contract later would be a better all around option. Now if you will need a loaner every time the vehicle may need service or you do a lot of traveling and could benefit from the trip interruption coverages then you would want to get the contract at time of vehicle sale.
I have to agree with some of the other people... you HAVE to do what YOU and only YOU and your family feel comfortable with. $1200.00a year addes up especially when you have a new child.
There is a reason you bought the d you did. you like it for its features. why dont you go with one that has the same features that will keep your payments about the same??
You are lucky that the dealership is working with you. Im they type of person that loves to barter with a dealer. if it was me i would say (knowing that i can afford) i will sign for it with and only with the warranty included. Between what they are giving you for your trade, incentives, and the amount they can lower on the new one what an extra 2k they adjust it to include the warranty. thats just me. I love to get to the point where they tell me "i cant do it" then i will usually say something like "i know you want to sell a vehicle, and i want to buy, now make it happen" 95% of the time they will.
There is a reason you bought the d you did. you like it for its features. why dont you go with one that has the same features that will keep your payments about the same??
You are lucky that the dealership is working with you. Im they type of person that loves to barter with a dealer. if it was me i would say (knowing that i can afford) i will sign for it with and only with the warranty included. Between what they are giving you for your trade, incentives, and the amount they can lower on the new one what an extra 2k they adjust it to include the warranty. thats just me. I love to get to the point where they tell me "i cant do it" then i will usually say something like "i know you want to sell a vehicle, and i want to buy, now make it happen" 95% of the time they will.
That is exactly what I have been going back and forth about with this dealer. I told him $480 including the extended warranty and I'll sign! After researching a bit, I think I might lean towards buying without the EW and maybe purchase closer to the 3yr/36k miles mark. If that's the case, then I will ask them to get to $460 without the warranty. I know they can do it... but so far, they are sticking to their guns!
I have to agree with some of the other people... you HAVE to do what YOU and only YOU and your family feel comfortable with. $1200.00a year addes up especially when you have a new child.
There is a reason you bought the d you did. you like it for its features. why dont you go with one that has the same features that will keep your payments about the same??
You are lucky that the dealership is working with you. Im they type of person that loves to barter with a dealer. if it was me i would say (knowing that i can afford) i will sign for it with and only with the warranty included. Between what they are giving you for your trade, incentives, and the amount they can lower on the new one what an extra 2k they adjust it to include the warranty. thats just me. I love to get to the point where they tell me "i cant do it" then i will usually say something like "i know you want to sell a vehicle, and i want to buy, now make it happen" 95% of the time they will.
There is a reason you bought the d you did. you like it for its features. why dont you go with one that has the same features that will keep your payments about the same??
You are lucky that the dealership is working with you. Im they type of person that loves to barter with a dealer. if it was me i would say (knowing that i can afford) i will sign for it with and only with the warranty included. Between what they are giving you for your trade, incentives, and the amount they can lower on the new one what an extra 2k they adjust it to include the warranty. thats just me. I love to get to the point where they tell me "i cant do it" then i will usually say something like "i know you want to sell a vehicle, and i want to buy, now make it happen" 95% of the time they will.
The official factory protection plans are VERY negotiable. My Service Advisor (who I trust completely after 9 years) recommended the Lifetime MaxCare $100 deduct on the new Durango. Would take over 12 visits to make up the difference from $50 deduct to $100 deduct.
Dealer said he'd match best price that I could find on the Internet. I presented my "best" price. He said he'd just as soon make the $50 then an out-of-state dealer. Then he showed me the suggested retail price: over $3200. I paid just over $1800.
Tell your guy you'll take the new car, but want the Lifetime Max at his cost +$50 for his time and effort. Bet he'll take the deal.
Dealer said he'd match best price that I could find on the Internet. I presented my "best" price. He said he'd just as soon make the $50 then an out-of-state dealer. Then he showed me the suggested retail price: over $3200. I paid just over $1800.
Tell your guy you'll take the new car, but want the Lifetime Max at his cost +$50 for his time and effort. Bet he'll take the deal.
Last edited by tveic; Oct 20, 2012 at 06:15 PM. Reason: correct error
Your drive train (the expensive part of your car) is already covered for 100K miles. Why would you ever bother to buy one of these things even for $1800? The likelihood of you having to fix anything not maintenance related for near that much money over the life of the car (or especially warranty) just isn't very high. The reason they are willing to sell these things cheap is that they are big money makers. You pay up front for something you are not likely to use. Take the bet that you'll never need it -- it's a very safe bet with today's cars.
Too many electronics packed into vehicles. Too pricy to fix. The 7 yr/70K plan I had on my '03 Ram 2500/Cummins paid for itself when they replaced the instrument cluster to fix a rear door lock that wouldn't! Add 2 Tranny seals and a real axle seal and I did OK
Going to keep the Durango minimum of 10 yrs. At $1850 that works out to $185 per year for coverage on everything (minus the $100 deduct). Great piece of mind for not a lot of dollars over the long haul.
Going to keep the Durango minimum of 10 yrs. At $1850 that works out to $185 per year for coverage on everything (minus the $100 deduct). Great piece of mind for not a lot of dollars over the long haul.
Exactly! It's the electronics! If we were talking about a 95 Toyota Tacoma, it would be a totally different story!
I have already decided, however, that if I choose the 2013, I would purchase without the Maximum Care Extended Warranty, yet purchase more towards the expiration date of my bumper to bumper warranty. My question now is, is the price of $33,850 a STEAL for a Crew with Nav, Leather, Heated Seats, etc.? Dealer seems like they won't budge on anything else, saying that they have no more room to negotiate. Asking price is $36,085! Here is the link: http://www.carlburger.com/new/Dodge/...a8a555190b.htm
Thanks in advance!
I have already decided, however, that if I choose the 2013, I would purchase without the Maximum Care Extended Warranty, yet purchase more towards the expiration date of my bumper to bumper warranty. My question now is, is the price of $33,850 a STEAL for a Crew with Nav, Leather, Heated Seats, etc.? Dealer seems like they won't budge on anything else, saying that they have no more room to negotiate. Asking price is $36,085! Here is the link: http://www.carlburger.com/new/Dodge/...a8a555190b.htm
Thanks in advance!
Too many electronics packed into vehicles. Too pricy to fix. The 7 yr/70K plan I had on my '03 Ram 2500/Cummins paid for itself when they replaced the instrument cluster to fix a rear door lock that wouldn't! Add 2 Tranny seals and a real axle seal and I did OK
Going to keep the Durango minimum of 10 yrs. At $1850 that works out to $185 per year for coverage on everything (minus the $100 deduct). Great piece of mind for not a lot of dollars over the long haul.
Going to keep the Durango minimum of 10 yrs. At $1850 that works out to $185 per year for coverage on everything (minus the $100 deduct). Great piece of mind for not a lot of dollars over the long haul.
Too many electronics packed into vehicles. Too pricy to fix. The 7 yr/70K plan I had on my '03 Ram 2500/Cummins paid for itself when they replaced the instrument cluster to fix a rear door lock that wouldn't! Add 2 Tranny seals and a real axle seal and I did OK
Going to keep the Durango minimum of 10 yrs. At $1850 that works out to $185 per year for coverage on everything (minus the $100 deduct). Great piece of mind for not a lot of dollars over the long haul.
Going to keep the Durango minimum of 10 yrs. At $1850 that works out to $185 per year for coverage on everything (minus the $100 deduct). Great piece of mind for not a lot of dollars over the long haul.
From a pure economic analysis, if these extended plans were really worth the price, the dealers wouldn't sell them for that price. They make money every time. What you are buying is peace of mind, but it's not financially worthwhile. If you buy one of these on the next 5 vehicles you purchase, you will undoubtedly spend more on warranties than you would on repairs.
And to be realistic, all cars will eventually fall apart, (and all parts fail). But you won't find a warranty that covers a car into that part of it's life. Companies that sell these warranties don't just come up with casual numbers. They do a failure analysis to come up with how much and for how long to ensure they make money on the deal.
I'd rather put 2-3K in the bank every time I buy a car. When my kids take the keys away from me I'll have money left in that account -- the calculated dealer profit.




