$250 is a custom tune for a cam. One place around here wanted $350 for a cam tune and has never done any work on a hemi before.

I say that is WAY to much for a tune that is just adjusting fuel trims/timing and deleting your O2's. $150 would be closer to what you are after.

And no, I do not believe you can get rid of the egr valve

 

Well, I have always taken the EGR's off my mopars one way or another. With my Neon I did it using a AF/X PCM. I got the idea and part numbers from the guys on NAdodge.com. I have heard of others with the DSP turning it off. I guess we'll find out soon enough.

 

There are a few guys on the Diablo forum that will do email tunes for near half that. I'm going to contact them and see what they can do for me. I very little knock if any at all, compared to a lot of the LX/challenger guys.

 

Well, after deciding that my engine didn't need any immediate tuning (i.e. fuel/spark adjustments). I went ahead and changed my upshift/downshift points. I took the numbers that truckin151 posted up a while back and programmed my truck with those. I couldn't believe how low some of the downshifts were compared to the new numbers. I hope I can tell a difference, because this still new to me.

I do have one question though. After I moved the slider on the DSP for RPM and hit accept, I went back in to verify it took the change and the RPM selection was anywhere between 5 and 50 RPM lower than what I told it to change to. Is this normal?

 

After I reset mine, and went back to check them the rpms went back to their (DSP) numbers. There was a * next to the ones I updated though indicating they were changed.

You should like the partials, I love, nice them smooth acceleration, if you decide to adjust anything leave the 1-2 ups/downs alone, after you take it and drive for a while you'll see why.

 

On some cars and truck The egr valve doesn't exist. On others The so called EGR function is accomplished with Variable cam timing. On these the EGR function can be easily thru ECU programming. However, As far as I know this function is accomplished with an actual valve on the rams. I know on some older vehicles you could pull open the valve and stick a metal plate in there or just cap them thus disabling the EGR. I think with the ram you can cap the 5.7's egr and disable the code from being thrown with the ECU. But I think there would be little to no benefit in disabling the system since it only opens under certain conditions.

As a side note, On some of the vehicles, when you put the plate in to disable the EGR, You had to watch temps very close because the valves had a habbit of scorching. Chevy/Geo Metros were horrible for this.

Another option of some vehicles was to not completely disable the EGR, But to put a small hole in one of the vacume lines so that the valve didn't close as fast. This had the effect of partially disabling the EGR but at the same time giving the ECU what it was looking for at the 02 sesnor. I don't beleive this can be done on the ram's.

**EDIT**

After a little talking with a friend of mine who is a dodge mechanic and a little research for my own purposes I found that on 05 hemi 1500's The EGR valve is closed by the ECU at deceleration, idle, heavy load's and rpm's above 3800. I don't know for sure if this is the case for any of the other ram models. But would be surprised if it were changed for the worse. Knowing this makes disabling the EGR (At least for me) pointless.

 

Not to take this post any more off topic, but I simply want to remove the EGR for aesthetic purposes. I'm not worried about burning the valves, since there are other Hemi Ram's out there running without them. I just posted here, because the DSP is my best shot for not getting a CEL. Thanks for the insight.

 

Well, I've had the partials changed for about 120 miles or so. I like the way it feels so far. There was a couple times that I wanted the trans. to downshift and it wouldn't until I romped on it. I'll have to carefully watch for this and make a note, so I can modify it to my needs. Thanks for the great jump start on this adjustment.

 

I keep a note book in my truck to keep track of wher the different points need adjusting. The 1-2 ups/downs I really like, the 2-3 ups/downs I had to adjust beyond what I posted by about 100rpm +/- higher to get it to feel just right with the converter.

 

I've created an excel file with different stuff. I made a live data map so I knew where all the parameters were. I started a tab with all my changes (item changed, date, etc.). I also have a tab for just the partial shft points, especially the stock points.