I just bought a 2005 ram 1500 slt 4x4 with the 4.7 magnum with 13,000 original miles. It looks factory new no dents dings rust or scratches and under 15k miles. I'm no mechanic just a diy guy. I've always done all my own repairs minus motor transmission and rear end repairs. Basically I leave the driveline to the pros. Guy I bought it off of said fuel pump went out twice in a month about a year after he bought it. Life happend and the truck has sat since. I had it towed to my house to work on it. What should I do to get this beast running and driving so I can use it to tow mine and my sons quads. I'm in the process of removing the coil packs and then plugs, my plan was to shoot some wd40 down the cylinders let them sit for a few days then try and turn the motor over with a wrench. After scouring posts related it looks like I may want to order some "fogging oil"? I pulled the battery it was not split and the case looked to b in good condition not too much corrosion on the wires but I have already replaced the clamps as they were corroded and one was already broken. I'm looking for a used battery with good charge to slap in it and start diagnosing any electrical or wiring issues there may b with the fuel pump, or maybe I'll put a battery in it and I'll hear the relay click and fuel pump come on and off to the races? Pls hive mind tell me where in going wrong things I need to do anything I may b missing? Mainly I'm worried about a dry start with that pristine motor sitting so long. I don't wanna cause any pre mature wear. I will keep yall updated on my progress it should b fun. This trucks a beauty! I'll post pics and videos of my progress.

 

Just buy a new battery. You are going to want one anyway.

Also, there is a thread JUST like this in the Charger section, everything mention in there, applies equally to you.

Buy a GOOD brand fuel pump. Previous owner was probably buying AirTex, and now he also knows why I outright refuse to install them in anything.

 

yes sir i read the charger post carefully before posting mine.. when I get it running and know it'll go b4 I start driving it ill put in a new battery, I get used ones for free so no bother spending cash b4 I need to. The previous owner said he got the fuel pump off ebay but it was new... press f to doubt. I ordered a premium one off rock auto, along with a new serpentine. I'm sure how many of the bushings will have to b replaced as well but that'll b later. I was under it loosening the gas tank straps so I can unhook the connections above it and I also saw the rear end pinion seal I believe, where the drive shift enters appears to b leaking oil. Wonder why that could b on such a low mile truck?

 

It sat dry for a LONG time...... probably moving it trashed the seal, or, there might be a recall on the pinion nut. (check for that before driving it......) But yeah, I think that seal is definitely going to need to be replaced.

 

I have been wrenching when I get time, so far I have pulled intake and plugs replaced fuel pump and pulled the serpentine. All the pulls spin freely but the crank won't turn over even without the plugs in. I figured for the cost a a replacement I'd just give her a go I drained oil and poured in new over to a few times and let it drain down. The pistons-cylinders have been in pb blaster and sprayed oil fogger through the intake. Tried to crawl it with key today but it appears as though the starter is not getting power. No click or anything, brand new battery, topped it off with charger and the battery cables are new as well. All gages and dummy lights work as do lights. Little stumped. Dreading going looking for a short or something in the wiring. I'll check fuses and relays in the am if I have time. Then try to c if there is power going to the starter and maybe it's seized or something but not making a sound not even the electric buzzing or clicking when battery is dead. Any help ot advice would b greatly appreciated.

 

DO NOT START IT WITH B'LASTER IN THE CYLINDERS!!!!!!! Sorry for shouting but B'laster and WD-40 are penetrating oils and excellent as a cutting oil too. Your cylinders should be in good shape but cutting oil on the rings can cause excessive wear. Shoot the fogging oil into the spark plug holes. You want an oil film on the cylinder walls. Partly to get good compression and partly to get a film on the lower rings until the engine is running. If nothing else a little transmission fluid will work. Then crank it a bit with the plugs out to avoid hydrolocking the engine.

Two fuel pumps might be because he bought the cheapest one he could find. Add in most parts, especially on Fleabay, are made of Chinesium and not the best quality, no wonder two went out. Are you sure the used battery you have has enough reserve capacity? I've seen them with 12.5 volts but only 100 cca due to all 6 cells being weak.You want at least 500 to 600 cca to crank the engine. See if you can put a socket on the bolt on the harmonic balancer and crank the engine slowly by hand with the plugs out. If it moves, great. If it doesn't, let the engine sit a could of days with oil or transmission fluid in the cylinder. Stuck could be a little rust hold a piston in place.

The pinion does look pretty bad. It will need attention. See if you can wiggle the rear of the drive shaft up and down for any play in the pinion shaft. Where are you located? The driveshaft looks pretty rusty..

 

bottom to top, it's a michigan truck that's very light surface rust the pinion seal is shot from towing it here, there is a recall om the nut so that'll go in to the dealership so they can deal with that and get it lined out 4 me.
As for the battery it's brand new I topped it off just 4 good measure and then tested the cells it passed. The battery is good. Tried putting a breaker bar on the crank bolt to turn it but can't get any power under the truck. The plugs are out and the pistons have been soaking in blaster. For about a month and a half lol. I chatted up my buddies that rebuild these junkers and they said for the cheap cost of a new motor and that they will help me stuff a new motor in, they said to just c if it'll crank without the serpentine belt off and all the plugs out. Gas line is disconnected as is the fuel pump. I'm just trying to break it free right now. My intent was to just bump the key quick and right off in one motion. But now I know I got another problem that's going to have to b delt with sooner or later. Bottom line if motor cranked after I fogged the intake good, then pulled the plugs shot some down all 8 spark plug holes after I pulled the plugs then capped it up and let her sit for a month or so, got busy. Then tried to turn it over on the crank and nothing. I used some pb then and let ut sit again way longer than needed. Now I'm on to just brute force move or get outta the way. I've got trans fluid from my last change it's still really clean do u surmise that atf will do a far better job in a few weeks than fogger and pb sitting for over 2 months? I don't mind waiting a bit but if it's not gonna get her dun then I'd rather just force the issue one way or another. If the motor blows ive already got another lined up and waiting for 1000 installed. I'm not set on a course of action just looking for the easiest and cheapest way to get it running.

 

If you can get a socket on the end of the crank, with the plugs out, it ought to rotate fairly easy. I've rotated engines like that with the plug out by grabbing the fan belts. Those were older vehicles with the old multiple belts, but with NO compression, it ought to rotate with little resistance. Try the ATF for a month and see what happens. I suspect that if you do manage to get it broke loose, you may have a pitted spot and will have a skeeter beater. (Smoker)

The engine is fairly easy to swap out from what I can see. The biggest issue for meon engine swaps has been lifting it high enough to clear the radiator support. The top of the support on yours unbolts so it can come almost straight out. One major caveat though is make CERTAIN the engine you have lined up is interchangeable. There was a running change on the 4.7 from a 16 to a 32 tooth toner ring. I had a 2002 and was looking for another engine in case I couldn't salvage mine and all I found was mostly newer engines. The ones with the proper toner were not cheap.

 

Hi Mattmann1,
Please feel free to contact us via private message if you need any assistance regarding your recall.

Rob
Dodge Cares

 

not mentioned, the brakes. I look at things from a safety angle, redo everything brakes, including the brake fluid. Also, the belts, maybe replace them.

I had a similar situation where I bought a car that was just sitting there for 5-6 years, big brake job, changed belts and flushed all the fluids out. I would replace the fluids with a good brand, you can go with any synthetic, I use this....

https://www.searchforparts.com/oil-change/dodge-trucks-2005-ram-1500-pickup-4.7l-n

go with a good wix filter and air filter as well. Just my 2 cents.