Rotor Choices
#12
10-19-2010, 10:21 PM
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#13
10-19-2010, 11:40 PM
I bought my front powerstop slotted rotors and hawk pads at autoanything for $330. Bought the rear rotors (non-slotted) at pep boys for another $75 or so. It was a $400 job in parts to do all my brakes but so far I can't complain and it's been about 500 miles so far. If you want to get your brakes done right, you're going to spend a little money. The guy on ebay seems to be what everybody refers people to, to get the best deal.
#14
10-20-2010, 06:17 AM
Thats going to depend on shops in your area but around here its about $10 +/-
#15
10-20-2010, 08:37 AM
You really shouldn't mix/match drilled/slotted with blank discs. It's the same as putting 2 different types of tires on your ride. The vehicle won't stop as intended and will likely push/slide if you hit the brakes hard enough going into a turn or when on wet/slippery roads.
#16
10-20-2010, 09:11 AM
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your rears don't work as hard as the front, but they are also only single piston calipers so they won't be exerting as much squeezing force as the fronts. It is an engineered system and is designed to perform under consistent conditions, throw a curve ball at it (like mis-matched rotors) and it all goes out the window.
#17
10-20-2010, 09:24 AM
So the braking effectiveness between a slotted and non-slotted rotor are that much different? I'm not trying to start anything, this is good information for people out there who may be considering doing the same thing I did and don't want to give anybody illegitimately bad information.
Last edited by areinike; 10-20-2010 at 09:35 AM.
#18
10-20-2010, 09:34 AM
So some people say solid rotors are better because they have more surface area, but they run hotter. Drilled/slotted run cooler giver you a more constance braking. therefore under heavy braking solids will lock up quicker (like 1ms) but will fade out, drilled/slotted will stay consistant.
#19
10-20-2010, 09:45 AM
