I have an '04 2500, 5.7L, 4x4, short bed, automatic. I bought this truck as a towing upgrade from an '06 1500, 4.6L. I didn't do my homework and just assumed this truck would give me a significant increase in tow rating. It was plenty of truck to pull the camper we were pulling with the 1500, but when we started considering a heavier camper, I double checked the tow rating of the the '04. This truck is only rated to 8800lbs and according to Dodge's towing guide, if it had 4.10 gears, it would be rated at 10,800 which is where I want to be. I have a couple questions.

1. What is the average cost to replace gears?

2. Would I have to do anything to the truck besides replace the gears to safely increase the tow rating to 10800?

I drive a mile to work and I don't drive the truck much other than that. Fuel mileage isn't an issue. We would like the ability to pull a 5th wheel camper and it is hard to find one big enough for our family that is 8800# loaded.

 

1. The best thing to do is call some shops local to you and ask for some quotes. What cost $250 in my area may cost you more in your area. 4wd is obviously going to cost more anyway

2. Dont think there is much you can do on this one. The power train and drive train is built for only so much. The suspension is no exception. Sure all can be beefed up but at the cost, the overall worth to have it all done has to be decided.

 

4.10s were a factory option on 2500s so even the dealer would do this one, although last guy I talked to had a stealership do it charged over $2700.

Local 4x4 shop in my area charges $600 per axle for gears, install kit, fluids and labor. Does excellent work too. I'd say the "national average" would be closer to $750 per axle.


Personally, if I was going to be pulling a 5th wheel at anywhere near 10k lbs. on any kind of regular basis or for any real distance, I'd be putting the gasser truck up for sale and looking for a CTD, but it's do-able. I'd guess gas mileage will be 5-6 mpg with that kinda weight.

You may want to look at 4.56 gearing as well...

 

When I looked up my tow capacity, Dodge's website didn't ask anything other than 2wd vs. 4wd, auto vs. manual so I assumed the drivetrain on the 3:55 model was as "beefed up" as the model with 4:10 gears. Is this not the case?

 

Seems like most 5th wheels we look at have a dry weight around 8-9k which is right at the limit right now. The extra 2k of capacity would be nice. We usually don't go more than a couple hours to camp and maybe 6-10 times a year.

Going diesel is an option, but I'm sure growing awful fond of this pretty blue Hemi....

 

Well I guess what i was getting at was the weight of the haul versus the strain put in the components on the truck.

 

I got ya. I guess I'm trying to find out if there was any difference in the drive train between the 2500 with 3:55 vs. 4:10 out of the factory. I would want to put 4:10s on if the rest of it wasn't heavy duty enough.

 

I don't know a whole lot about this, but this is what I do:

the margin of safety most RV websites/information services/manuals state is 10% east of the Rockies, and 20% west.. if that trailer weighs in at 8k, and seeing that you are in Indiana, you'll want a tow rating of nearing 9k for safeties sake.. that is curb weight of a trailer behind you- not dry.. This isn't a legal thing, it's just an agreed upon notion by other enthusiasts..

Your friendly DOT or Highway Patrolman doesn't care what mod's you've done to your truck to make it more capable of pursuing your endeavors. He only cares what the GVWR vs. Actual weight is.. And it's printed in your door jam, not to mention he likely has a chart handy as well. Some of those rascals carry scales in their trunks they will be happy to put one under each of your tires to tally the score on any old shoulder of the road and at any time- and WHILE you and your family sit in the truck with your 20oz soda's and magazines you'd be wishing you didn't have at that point.. The penalty for overweight is stupid expensive..

All this being said- If I'm not way out of bounds, there is an exemption/waiver for RV's and weight that allows you some margin for overweight.. I don't know if fifth wheel rigs fit in that waiver or not, but I KNOW toy haulers DON'T... You may want to check that out.

Your imprinted GVWR is going to dictate if you can legally pull that load, nothing else is going to matter.. But, if you feel safe doing so and find that you DON'T qualify for the waiver, there is an easy fix that will slip you past even the best DOT officers:

Re-badge your rig to read 3500.. they won't look twice at you then.

 

jcmorgam31, do you have any lift and bigger tires? If so you might consider going to 4.56's like somebody else mentioned.

 

It is how it looks in the picture still. All stock.