Cold air intakes & exhaust
#11
Hammer:
Cant u just buy a spectre for $120 then buy an amsoil dry cone filter for $50. Then remove spectres filter and add the amsoil on the end instead. Price is total 170. If u buy one through injen its about $300. And the last time i checked metal was metal. So u think there isnt really a noticeable diff between plastic and aluminum ?
Cant u just buy a spectre for $120 then buy an amsoil dry cone filter for $50. Then remove spectres filter and add the amsoil on the end instead. Price is total 170. If u buy one through injen its about $300. And the last time i checked metal was metal. So u think there isnt really a noticeable diff between plastic and aluminum ?
#12
yeah, of course you can if you buy a filter with the same diameter opening and the rest of the dimensions fit where you plan on putting it. BUT you can build that part of it for under $25 and buy the Amsoil filter and have just as good air flow, spend less and actually have the satisfaction of building your own mod...
You basically need about $5 in 3" PVC, about another $5-6 in a couple elbows (90* or 45* depending on routing), a couple bucks in PVC cement, a couple bucks in a can of spray paint in the color of your choosing and about $7 in a boot with two clamps on it.
A couple I've made for members here:
Some people 'round here even grind down the couplings and the lettering and have it perfectly smooth, looks real sharp/professional thataway, but I'm not that energetic. I'm sure 'Weed will throw a pic of his in here at some point. LOL...
You basically need about $5 in 3" PVC, about another $5-6 in a couple elbows (90* or 45* depending on routing), a couple bucks in PVC cement, a couple bucks in a can of spray paint in the color of your choosing and about $7 in a boot with two clamps on it.
A couple I've made for members here:
Some people 'round here even grind down the couplings and the lettering and have it perfectly smooth, looks real sharp/professional thataway, but I'm not that energetic. I'm sure 'Weed will throw a pic of his in here at some point. LOL...
Last edited by HammerZ71; 05-15-2011 at 05:00 PM.
#13
#14
It's all personal preference. The black looks better, better insulates the intake noise and is usually lighter. In traffic, the chrome pipe will have more heat soak. I just use the Airaid MIT pipe with a K&N drop-in filter in the stock airbox. I use the K&N filter because it last forever and only requires cleaning at a minimum of 50K miles. I've only had to clean the one in my 88 Mustang twice in over 150K miles.
The stock intake on the Rams is very efficient. This is why there is no CAI tune for the Rams because adding one does not add enough airflow to even lean out the mixture that requires extra fuel, like the cars do.
I just don't want you to spend a bunch of money and expect a noticeable power improvement. You will be highly disappointed.
The stock intake on the Rams is very efficient. This is why there is no CAI tune for the Rams because adding one does not add enough airflow to even lean out the mixture that requires extra fuel, like the cars do.
I just don't want you to spend a bunch of money and expect a noticeable power improvement. You will be highly disappointed.
#15
I gotta agree with LX for the most part. I wouldn't get a chrome one again, I bought the chrome because I made some engine bay "dress up" mods out of billet aluminum and diamond plate and the chrome just "went" with everything. As I stated, I didn't see a temp difference that was enough to scrap my pipe and re-build my own. I have plans to cut my hood and make my scoop a true Ram Air and at that time I'll just re-do the piping out of PVC when I re-route it into the scoop. This is actually being done to free up the passenger side for a second battery.
As far as the intake goes, you don't see much gains from JUST the intake. The "Hemi Hat" is the only real restriction, not terrible but the chambers in it that are made as a baffle for the EGR noise does restrict the flow of air some.
Where the intake starts to "come alive" is with other mods that free up the rest of the system and/or utilize the added airflow. If you free up the exhaust by removing the restrictive stock "Y" pipe and go to a better flowing muffler, you'll see more gains from the CAI. Headers, a larger throttle body and head work all pretty much gain from the CAI and perform better due to the increase in air.
A CAI by itself certainly doesn't hurt anything and they do add a little nicer sound, a little more air by virtue of the fact that the cone filters have a LOT more surface area than a standard, flat filter. Average gains from JUST a CAI or about 5 RWHP, don't go by the manufacturer's specs, they are fairly accurate BUT they are measured at the crank. The only real HP gains that mean a thing are RWHP numbers.
As far as better fuel economy, don't expect much as a matter of fact the BETTER CAIs, those that get their air from OUTSIDE the vehicle (and cost a lot more than even the $300 name brand ones) actually decrease fuel economy. Cooler air is more dense, more dense air requires a richer fuel mix. More fuel dumped is more fuel used of course by adding a richer mix, power is increased.
BUT as LX says, a LOT of guys add a simple CAI and expect these HUGE gains. Ain't happening and guys are disappointed ESPECIALLY when they are dropping upwards of $300 for a name brand one.
It's hard for me to build one and send it to someone, although I have done it. I like to build them "on the truck" for perfect fitment and the bracket(s) to hold it in place really need to be done on the truck because if I'm off 1/8" then it isn't going to line up with one of the holes that are already on the sidewall that I like to use. I've used everything from a shelf bracket to a piece of aluminum flat stock I've bent to the shape I wanted it. If you use the stock box without the top, then you really only have to pop a hole in the side and hold it with a big hose clamp (see the black one in my pic above). Almost two years later, that one ain't moved a fraction of an inch.
It's NOT HARD to build one. Kinda like an erector set. Anybody can build one and there are a bunch of DIYs around here and a slew of guys who have built one to help. I suggested you build one because I'd just rather see someone build one themselves. You will end up with a CAI that doesn't fall apart like a lot of the ebay ones and have the same performance of one that costs $200-300 for a fraction of the cost.
Every one I've ever built got a K&N filter, but I've been seeing A LOT of independent tests on these newer dry filters and they are as good as the oil type and require much less care. I ain't about to replace my K&N because it's in perfect shape and was just cleaned and re-oiled about 2k miles ago, BUT if I was going to buy one tomorrow, it'd be a dry type...
As far as the intake goes, you don't see much gains from JUST the intake. The "Hemi Hat" is the only real restriction, not terrible but the chambers in it that are made as a baffle for the EGR noise does restrict the flow of air some.
Where the intake starts to "come alive" is with other mods that free up the rest of the system and/or utilize the added airflow. If you free up the exhaust by removing the restrictive stock "Y" pipe and go to a better flowing muffler, you'll see more gains from the CAI. Headers, a larger throttle body and head work all pretty much gain from the CAI and perform better due to the increase in air.
A CAI by itself certainly doesn't hurt anything and they do add a little nicer sound, a little more air by virtue of the fact that the cone filters have a LOT more surface area than a standard, flat filter. Average gains from JUST a CAI or about 5 RWHP, don't go by the manufacturer's specs, they are fairly accurate BUT they are measured at the crank. The only real HP gains that mean a thing are RWHP numbers.
As far as better fuel economy, don't expect much as a matter of fact the BETTER CAIs, those that get their air from OUTSIDE the vehicle (and cost a lot more than even the $300 name brand ones) actually decrease fuel economy. Cooler air is more dense, more dense air requires a richer fuel mix. More fuel dumped is more fuel used of course by adding a richer mix, power is increased.
BUT as LX says, a LOT of guys add a simple CAI and expect these HUGE gains. Ain't happening and guys are disappointed ESPECIALLY when they are dropping upwards of $300 for a name brand one.
It's hard for me to build one and send it to someone, although I have done it. I like to build them "on the truck" for perfect fitment and the bracket(s) to hold it in place really need to be done on the truck because if I'm off 1/8" then it isn't going to line up with one of the holes that are already on the sidewall that I like to use. I've used everything from a shelf bracket to a piece of aluminum flat stock I've bent to the shape I wanted it. If you use the stock box without the top, then you really only have to pop a hole in the side and hold it with a big hose clamp (see the black one in my pic above). Almost two years later, that one ain't moved a fraction of an inch.
It's NOT HARD to build one. Kinda like an erector set. Anybody can build one and there are a bunch of DIYs around here and a slew of guys who have built one to help. I suggested you build one because I'd just rather see someone build one themselves. You will end up with a CAI that doesn't fall apart like a lot of the ebay ones and have the same performance of one that costs $200-300 for a fraction of the cost.
Every one I've ever built got a K&N filter, but I've been seeing A LOT of independent tests on these newer dry filters and they are as good as the oil type and require much less care. I ain't about to replace my K&N because it's in perfect shape and was just cleaned and re-oiled about 2k miles ago, BUT if I was going to buy one tomorrow, it'd be a dry type...
Last edited by HammerZ71; 05-15-2011 at 08:45 PM.
#16
I understand I wont see that huge HP number. Which is ok for right now. I am just looking to take better care of my engine and get a little more air flow going. So many pipers are aluminum over plastic. And I believe you said that at some point in time you measure incoming air temp between plastic and metal and there wasnt a huge difference. So many people have so many different opinions. I posted a few different models with links that work. If you could look at a couple and give me a point of view that would be great. And my whole hting between plastic and metal piping is that if the air if traveling so fast anyways, and that the tempature isnt hardly noticeable is there really gonna be a differnce between the piping ??? Some world shaking difference ?? Here are the intakes.............
http://www.amazon.com/Spectre-Perfor...2005&carId=001
http://www.amazon.com/AEM-21-8203DP-...2005&carId=001 I find this AEM almost looks identical to the spectre.
http://www.amazon.com/BBK-Performanc...2005&carId=001
http://www.amazon.com/aFe-54-10382-A...2005&carId=001
http://www.streetsideauto.com/p/kn-p...nce-77-1533kp/
http://www.streetsideauto.com/p/kn-f...e-kit-57-1533/
OK..LOL.. I figured this was enough. But these are a few I am looking into. However I am reading that people who bought the spectre said that they had trouble fitting the MAF into the tubing and had to do some wire splicing if I read correctly. But once done they said it worked wonderful. I swear the tubing is almost identical to the AEM its almost a copy. I swear if youc ould just buy the tubing to fit my truck I would bu the cone from the brand I wanted. I am so confused. I just want my investment to be right, and the install not involve wire splicing and crazy installation crap..lol
http://www.amazon.com/Spectre-Perfor...2005&carId=001
http://www.amazon.com/AEM-21-8203DP-...2005&carId=001 I find this AEM almost looks identical to the spectre.
http://www.amazon.com/BBK-Performanc...2005&carId=001
http://www.amazon.com/aFe-54-10382-A...2005&carId=001
http://www.streetsideauto.com/p/kn-p...nce-77-1533kp/
http://www.streetsideauto.com/p/kn-f...e-kit-57-1533/
OK..LOL.. I figured this was enough. But these are a few I am looking into. However I am reading that people who bought the spectre said that they had trouble fitting the MAF into the tubing and had to do some wire splicing if I read correctly. But once done they said it worked wonderful. I swear the tubing is almost identical to the AEM its almost a copy. I swear if youc ould just buy the tubing to fit my truck I would bu the cone from the brand I wanted. I am so confused. I just want my investment to be right, and the install not involve wire splicing and crazy installation crap..lol
#17
You can get the AirRaid "U buld it" kit:
But honestly, IMO, the only difference with this kit and just going to Home Depot and buying a $5 length of PVC and the $3 elbows is you have to cut the PVC. I just don't see why you can't build one. If you can measure, cut PVC and glue it you got it made.
The other advantage of building your own is you can put the damn hole for the sensor wherever it needs to be to fit without splicing. I just drill the hole and push in a rubber grommet (about $1 for a pack of 6, also at Home Depot). Put a dab of the PVC glue around the grommet (just to be 100% sure it stays put) and push in the sensor. REALLY this isn't rocket science...
4" PVC is fine, you'll just need a 3" to 4" boot as the throttle body is 3". I use 3" because I really don't see the advantage of a 4" pipe when the intake is 3", but some people use 4" with no issue. I wouldn't go any bigger though, I think it's just like an exhaust, bigger pipe is fine UNTIL you go too big and LOSE air flow.
I ONLY LOOKED AT YOUR FIRST LINK: THAT IS THE ONE PYRO HAD THAT I HAD TO REBUILD ALMOST RIGHT AWAY. SEE THE LITTLE METAL "L" BRACKET, IT BREAKS FROM ROAD VIBRATION. I first brazed it back on where it broke on the tube side only for it to break on the sidewall side a week later. I ALSO KNOW A LOT OF GUYS WHO HAD THEIRS BREAK IN THE SAME PLACE - DO NOT BUY THAT CAI!!! I may resemble the AEM but look at the difference in the brackets. Also that $200 kit is $85 all over ebay, but it's junk!!!
But honestly, IMO, the only difference with this kit and just going to Home Depot and buying a $5 length of PVC and the $3 elbows is you have to cut the PVC. I just don't see why you can't build one. If you can measure, cut PVC and glue it you got it made.
The other advantage of building your own is you can put the damn hole for the sensor wherever it needs to be to fit without splicing. I just drill the hole and push in a rubber grommet (about $1 for a pack of 6, also at Home Depot). Put a dab of the PVC glue around the grommet (just to be 100% sure it stays put) and push in the sensor. REALLY this isn't rocket science...
4" PVC is fine, you'll just need a 3" to 4" boot as the throttle body is 3". I use 3" because I really don't see the advantage of a 4" pipe when the intake is 3", but some people use 4" with no issue. I wouldn't go any bigger though, I think it's just like an exhaust, bigger pipe is fine UNTIL you go too big and LOSE air flow.
I ONLY LOOKED AT YOUR FIRST LINK: THAT IS THE ONE PYRO HAD THAT I HAD TO REBUILD ALMOST RIGHT AWAY. SEE THE LITTLE METAL "L" BRACKET, IT BREAKS FROM ROAD VIBRATION. I first brazed it back on where it broke on the tube side only for it to break on the sidewall side a week later. I ALSO KNOW A LOT OF GUYS WHO HAD THEIRS BREAK IN THE SAME PLACE - DO NOT BUY THAT CAI!!! I may resemble the AEM but look at the difference in the brackets. Also that $200 kit is $85 all over ebay, but it's junk!!!
Last edited by HammerZ71; 05-15-2011 at 09:43 PM.
#18
Exhaust/muffler
Maybe I am just ignorant when it comes to knowing about my truck (2005 hemi 1500 reg cab 2wd), but I need some help. I see people talking about mufflers, and cherry bomb glasspacks, and flowmaster 40's and 50's and so many others. But if you put on a cat back exhaust system doesnt it already come with a muffler for it. Or r these things one in the same ??? If they are different it possible to put on a dual exhuast and then add a seperate aftermarket muffler, or does it usually have to be one or the other ???
PLEASE HELP !!!!...LOL
PLEASE HELP !!!!...LOL
#19
a muffler is a part of most cat-back exhaust systems. (Nearly always)
I'd buy a package that has the right mufflers on it for ease of install, or you'll be cutting and welding the different mufflers in.
Show us some examples of what you're looking at, and we'll be able to guide you through the basics of an install
I'd buy a package that has the right mufflers on it for ease of install, or you'll be cutting and welding the different mufflers in.
Show us some examples of what you're looking at, and we'll be able to guide you through the basics of an install
#20