Suspension/Body lift?
#1
Suspension/Body lift?
I have recently bought a 2004 ram 1500. Im about to put a lift on it but I am kinda unsure about what to put on it. I looking for something thats going to look tough! I think I want about a 3" lift on it.
I guess what my only concern is what is the difference in a suspension and body lift? Which one will make my truck sit higher?
Also has anyone figured how to make their MPG better? Any chips or something?
Any suggestions would be great!
Thanks for the help.
I guess what my only concern is what is the difference in a suspension and body lift? Which one will make my truck sit higher?
Also has anyone figured how to make their MPG better? Any chips or something?
Any suggestions would be great!
Thanks for the help.
#2
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: South Georgia/East Florida
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If you even remotely want your MPGs better, then DON'T LIFT THE TRUCK!!!!
You will lose MAJOR fuel economy with a lift, EVEN if you keep the tires the same size just by wind drag and loss of aerodynamics alone. Go taller and/or wider on the tires and get an aggressive tread and combined with even a modest lift and you are talking 3-4 mpg loss MINIMUM.
However, for an explanation of the different lift types and the pluses and minus' of each, go here:
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen...uck-101-a.html
You will lose MAJOR fuel economy with a lift, EVEN if you keep the tires the same size just by wind drag and loss of aerodynamics alone. Go taller and/or wider on the tires and get an aggressive tread and combined with even a modest lift and you are talking 3-4 mpg loss MINIMUM.
However, for an explanation of the different lift types and the pluses and minus' of each, go here:
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen...uck-101-a.html
#3
Welcome to the site. Since you are new Im going to go out on a limb and assume you have never had a lifted truck with big rims and tires before.
As Hammer said, lifts and mileage DO NOT work together. They work against each other because you are adding more rotating mass with bigger rims and tires. This means potential suspension issues with various components. It means the engine and trans work harder to go from a dead stop and the brakes work harder to stop. Lifting it means you catch more air under the truck with causes drag which in turn take more power to over come.
Now dont let me talk you out of lifting it. If you want it lifted then do it. But also consider this, how much for the lift plus install? How much for the rims and tires? How much for changing the gears in the rear end to compensate for the bigger rims and tires? How much mileage does the truck currently get and how much are you willing to loose?
Im 12" high with 24" rims and 36" all terrains and get about 10mpg. With a 35 gallon tank and fuel about 3.75 a gal here, sure it hurts. But thankfully I can afford it with moderation. I dont drive my truck far to work and back. If i did, Im sure I would have to park it and find something else or sell it.
I have an 04 like you so go through my links in my signature and download your Parts and Service Manuals and go through my other links for ideas on what you may want to do or not do to your truck.
As Hammer said, lifts and mileage DO NOT work together. They work against each other because you are adding more rotating mass with bigger rims and tires. This means potential suspension issues with various components. It means the engine and trans work harder to go from a dead stop and the brakes work harder to stop. Lifting it means you catch more air under the truck with causes drag which in turn take more power to over come.
Now dont let me talk you out of lifting it. If you want it lifted then do it. But also consider this, how much for the lift plus install? How much for the rims and tires? How much for changing the gears in the rear end to compensate for the bigger rims and tires? How much mileage does the truck currently get and how much are you willing to loose?
Im 12" high with 24" rims and 36" all terrains and get about 10mpg. With a 35 gallon tank and fuel about 3.75 a gal here, sure it hurts. But thankfully I can afford it with moderation. I dont drive my truck far to work and back. If i did, Im sure I would have to park it and find something else or sell it.
I have an 04 like you so go through my links in my signature and download your Parts and Service Manuals and go through my other links for ideas on what you may want to do or not do to your truck.
#5
thanks for the advice guys. and yes this is going to be my first lifted truck. MPG isnt really an issue I just have heard of friends putting performance chips in and get a little bit better gas mileage. As far has as how high I want I dont want it quite as high as yours weedahoe. I just want something I can look at and be proud of. Plus turn a few heads while driving it!
Thanks again for your advice.
Thanks again for your advice.
#6
#7
I agree with most of what you said, but your comments about pricing for body lifts are a bit off. You can get all inclusive kits, with the bumper brackets and steering extension and everything for $370. Gap guards to cover the gap in the frame are about another $80.
http://www.central4wd.com/inventoryd...folder%7C96928
I think it's important to point out to people unfamiliar with suspension mods that there is no "performance" increase to be had from a low budget suspension lift. When you get into the high dollar kits, performance, as measured by wheel travel will improve but the low buck kits do nothing for performance.
I recently found a funny video on youtube about body lifts. The language is vulgar, so I'm not going to post a link. If you are so inclined, search YouTube for "body lift myth". It's vulgar but funny.
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#8
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Is this '04 a 4x2 or a 4x4?
Most "chips" are garbage, now a tuner is another story, but don't expect too much in the MPG department from any of them (maybe 1-2 mpg). Still the best things for good gas mileage are what they've always been. Keep it tuned up, clean filters, synthetics where you can, good driving habits and properly filled tires. About the only modification that will actually pay for itself
Pucks are a generic term for the blocks used when doing a body lift because back in the day, before there were commercial body lift kits, guys used hockey pucks placed between the frame and body to lift the truck.
Today, the term is also used for coil spacers as well (so you need to be clear on which is being talked about) because coil spacers are round discs that closely resemble pucks...
Yes, FAQs and DIYs are for informational purposes only and are locked from comments. To comment on any one of them, a thread should be started in either the tech or general discussion section.
Without going back and checking my original post, I think I said body lifts were either $400 or could be had for under $400 (don't remember exactly, I wrote that like 3-4 years ago). But I'd say $370 qualifies as under $400, and since it was a generalized guide, I basically was quoting average prices from the more retail based sites. Yes, I've seen brand new full PA kits on ebay for $325, but if I said $325 my PM box would be full with guys wanting to know where they could get it for that. Again, for finding the best prices on products, that's what the general sections are for. Also, I went high water mark on gap guards based on the Mopar molded ones, once again, there are bargain, flat, rubber gap guards out there for around $60 and up.
I agree with you on this one. You get what you pay for! Ain't no way a $100 set of spacers or keys are gonna do for you what a full, $1500'ish suspension kit is gonna do. But to just clear a larger tire or get rid of the rake, it's all some people need...
Most "chips" are garbage, now a tuner is another story, but don't expect too much in the MPG department from any of them (maybe 1-2 mpg). Still the best things for good gas mileage are what they've always been. Keep it tuned up, clean filters, synthetics where you can, good driving habits and properly filled tires. About the only modification that will actually pay for itself
Today, the term is also used for coil spacers as well (so you need to be clear on which is being talked about) because coil spacers are round discs that closely resemble pucks...
Yes, FAQs and DIYs are for informational purposes only and are locked from comments. To comment on any one of them, a thread should be started in either the tech or general discussion section.
I agree with most of what you said, but your comments about pricing for body lifts are a bit off. You can get all inclusive kits, with the bumper brackets and steering extension and everything for $370. Gap guards to cover the gap in the frame are about another $80.
I think it's important to point out to people unfamiliar with suspension mods that there is no "performance" increase to be had from a low budget suspension lift. When you get into the high dollar kits, performance, as measured by wheel travel will improve but the low buck kits do nothing for performance.
Last edited by HammerZ71; 06-15-2011 at 12:05 PM.
#10
Without going back and checking my original post, I think I said body lifts were either $400 or could be had for under $400 (don't remember exactly, I wrote that like 3-4 years ago). But I'd say $370 qualifies as under $400, and since it was a generalized guide, I basically was quoting average prices from the more retail based sites. ........
I agree with you on this one. You get what you pay for! Ain't no way a $100 set of spacers or keys are gonna do for you what a full, $1500'ish suspension kit is gonna do. But to just clear a larger tire or get rid of the rake, it's all some people need...
As far as the $1500 suspension lift, there's not much that kit is going to do for you besides clear bigger tires either. You don't get any more wheel travel, which is the holy grail of off road performance. Simply dropping the lower cross member so you can increase the span between the upper and lower control arms won't change the range of motion of those control arms. If you want true performance, it's going to revolve around more travel, and that comes at a very high price. $1500 might cover the labor to install the parts, which would cost four times that. Just look at the Dodge Ram Runner for an example of what real performance costs.