So I have a bit of a dilemma right now. I bought my 2008 Ram 1500 4x4 Laramie last year with 59,000km's on it. In the course of doing the safety they replaced the tie-rods. About 2 months ago I took the truck into the shop and they said there was a seal leak in the steering rack and that both outer and one inner tie-rod needed to be replaced, and the truck was only at 82,000km's. On top of this last week I take the truck into the shop and it needs a wiper motor replaced that isn't covered under the recall that was done, even though the exact issue with it is what's covered under the recall. All in the repairs cost me $2,000.

Now I'm not ignorant and I know that things happen and repairs are required. But to do so much front end work on a truck (yes I know Ram's are bad for front ends) that has less than 100,000km's is ridiculous. I specifically bought this truck last year and paid what I did for it so I wouldn't have to do MAJOR repairs on it for a few years. Needless to say I'm considering moving on, which is a shame because I was very excited to buy my first Ram and get it.

Anyway, if I don't sell it and decide to stick it out I'm considering doing a few changes to add a little HP and style.
-K&N CAI w/ a Jets throttle body spacer
-Superchips flashpaq programmer
-downgrading to 18" chrome rims so I can get more meat with some BF Goodrich All Terrain T/A's in 295/65R18
-single inlet dual outlet magnaflow exhaust

Any ideas or pointing me in the right direction is appreciated. Or if you guys have experienced similar issues with you trucks but after that initial slap in the face of repairs it was only the usual routine stuff that popped up, I'd love to hear it. My biggest fear is that this is the start of the rollercoaster and I'm going to be potentially sucked into this truck for more money on repairs that shouldn't be happening.

Cheers,

 

on the recall issue with the wiper motor... that should be covered regardless a recall is a recall.. take the truck elsewhere if the dealer you are at is refusing to cover it under the recall..


as for the tie rod ends and Rack leaking. Rack and Pinion leaks are fairly common on the Ram trucks.. although yours has given up the ghost on you rather quickly it isn't anything that indicates stuff is going downhill with your truck.

Have you yourself seen how bad the leak is on the rack? also which tie rod ends were replaced when you bought the truck? more than likely the place you purchased the truck from put the cheapest tie rod ends on that they could.. and if that's what they did I'm not surprised the **** out on you..

now most Racks when purchased come with inner tie rods already.. then you get yourself a nice set of Moog outer tie rod ends and you're set.. Now idk how handy you are with a wrench and what tools you have but a rack and pinion swap is very doable for a mechanic with tools and a jack.

up to you though on how you want to handle it.

 

I guess the issue with the recall is that even though my motor is having the issues, when the dealership punches in my VIN it does not have my truck as needing the recall so they won't cover the replacement.

I didn't see the leak, and really neither did the mechanic because the seal that went was internal and the fluid had leaked into the rubber boot. So you could hear the fluid in there sloshing around when you poked it.

The tie-rods that were replaced were OEM because it was a Chrysler dealership that did the work (not the same one I currently take the truck to). So I was very surprised to find out they needed to be replaced after 20,000km's of driving.

I actually went to Chrysler and lodged a complaint due to the tie-rods failing and the steering rack going so early. While the 60,000km warranty expired, I still feel I should get something from Chrysler. I think in the end I'm going to keep the truck, but if the tie-rods go again within the next 50,000km's she's being put to the curb.

I'm not that much of a mechanic, but my Father in-law is, so I think anything else that comes up we'll be doing in his driveway to save a few pennies.

I love the truck, I just needed to vent.
Thanks Ben.

 

Hell, you should own a 3/4 ton Ford diesel, them things are supposed to be made for towing/hauling and the one I had ATE ball joints, to the tune of a new set every 20,000 miles - and I only towed 3000 lbs of bass boat! Got so the chick who ran the local Advance would see me walk in the door and be bringing up the part number for ball joints up on her computer screen.

So why are you so insistent on using Chrysler bad part after Chrysler bad part? The tie rods have been sh*t since they changed manufacturers prior to the '07s. A Moog is half the price and twice the quality AND IS GREASABLE!!! And why in the hell ANYBODY would take a vehicle to the dealer for non-warranty work is beyond me!

Actually, if you can pull a tire and turn a wrench, you can do the inner and outer tie rods in about 30 minutes a side in the driveway - then go for an alignment. BTW, I'm assuming the shop that did the tie rod ends last time did an alignment right away? Cause if they didn't, that's why you need inner & outers now.

The racks are hit and miss. I know guys with 200,000 miles (dunno what that is in them KM things you guys use), still on the original rack and I know guys with 60,000 miles on their third one.

Also, I believe I read in another thread where you tow a 5000 lb. enclosed trailer? Can't be doing that with ANY half ton and not expect to have to redo front end parts at about twice the normal interval.

Keep the truck, MAKE ALL YOUR REPAIRS A MOD (meaning use BETTER, 3RD PARTY PARTS), and you'll be fine...

 

I don't haul on a regular basis, the 5,000lbs trailer is being borrowed from friends for a road trip the wife and I are doing.

As for using Chrysler parts, to be honest until I owned one and started researching the background, I didn't realize the front end issues were so prevalent. My own fault really for not looking deeper into things. As for doing my own maintenance and buying aftermarket parts, that's where I think I'm looking to go. Not to make excuses but one of the reasons I haven't been doing my own work for something as simple as an oil change, is that we live in a condo and they will gladly fine me if I do any work in the parking lot.

Like I said, I'm going to keep the truck most likely, in part due to money already invested. Just needed a good vent and potentially a sympathetic ear.

Anyone have any comments on the potential mods I'm looking at?

 

Condo living does make it tough to work on your own vehicle, but surely you must know someone who is a "wrencher" that has room to work on it.

Every vehicle has it's own set of inherent problems, but for some reason, Chrysler really blew it when they went from the simple torsion bar system to coil overs on the 1/2 ton 4x4s in '06. You never hear of the issues with the torsion 3rd Gens. Hell, look at all the issues coil over guys have with a simple level kit (coil spacer) install.

Again, better components (Moog, Timken, etc.) are half the money, are user serviceable (greasable) and will in all probability last the life of the truck.

A CAI is a pretty easy mod, won't net much gains by itself and you can make one for about $50 (including a name-brand filter) that will yield the same modest gains that a $300 one will give you.

The throttle body spacer is a dinosaur, it does NOTHING on a modern TB except whistle and in some cases give WORSE performance on a dyno.

Now a larger throttle body in combo with that CAI is another story.

IMO no 4x4 that ever sees even mild off-roading should have 20" wheels, but I'd go 17s, gives you the maximum towing capacity of any size that will clear the calipers and will have more tire choices at a lower cost than 18" would.

Do I really need to comment on the choice of a BFG A/T?

SI/DO Maggy is a good, solid, non-aggressive choice in a muffler, but do yourself a BIG favor and spend the extra $25 on the Maggy "Y" and ditch that POS stock one...

 

I would keep the truck also, at least you know some of it's history and how it has been maintained while you have had it. Buying a different used truck may come with more problems of a greater magnatude. I did like hammer suggested and did away with the stock Y-pipe in favor of the magnaflow Y-pipe and magnaflow muffler with a cheap CAI and the difference is noticeable in power and at the pump. If you cut out the stock Y-pipe and replace it you will see just how restricted it is. Hopefully you have headed off the biggest of your issues for a long while and can enjoy the truck. Good luck.

 

looks like the front is lifted and that changes the front end geometry and re-angles many suspension parts.

 

Front is stock. In fact the whole truck is stock, nothing has been done to it... yet.

The main "wrencher" I know is my Father in-law, he lives 45 minutes away but I foresee me visiting him more as I agree with you guys and I'm going to start doing more work myself. This next month will really show the true colours of the truck because I'm going to be putting it through its paces towing that 5,000lb trailer for over 5,000km's (3,100 miles) in an 18 day period. Hopefully I have no bad news to share. But ya, I think this truck and I are going to be together for a while... like marriage there are good days and bad days.

Good ideas on the Y-pipe. And no Hammer, I know your feelings on the BFG A/T's, but I'm partial to them because of my great experience with the set I had.

So for the throttle body spacer if I do a CAI you would recommend doing it? I figured it's no more time in labour since I'll already be in that area putting on the air intake, but if the gains in either HP or fuel economy aren't going to be much then maybe it's not worth it.

Thanks for the tips guys.

 

throttle body spacer won't do anything as these are multiport injection and not the old style of injection on the TB. some guys like them for the whistle etc.. they create buts that's all they do.