As discussed above, there are factors that can cause variances, but 8k is more likely on the high end of your range. 12k is not even a "maybe" - not even close.

 

NO 1500 IFS Ram is rated to pull 12,000 lbs. Just because a class IV hitch is rated at 12,000 lbs. doesn't mean the truck is.

With all applicable accessories (weight distributed hitch, trailer brakes, etc.) the highest capacity combination '04 1500 Hemi (non Mega Cab) is rated to pull is 9200#. Deduct 1000 lbs. for 3.55 gears, deduct another 1000 lbs. for 20" wheels if that's what you got.

Keep in mind that if you pull over capacity and should have an accident, your insurance company can (and probably will) deny any and all coverage. If it's your fault and there is significant loss of propery or an injury or worse should result - you could potentially lose everything you own.
Not to mention if you go through a weigh station or get stopped you could get a hefty fine.

I'm not saying you can't pull it or even that you shouldn't, but I'd do my homework before making the trailer purchase if it was me...

 

Amen hammer. And whatever you do, dont take a rv dealer's word on what you can tow. When i first started shopping rv's, when i had my old 2nd gen, i had a sales rep that went to "check the book on what you can tow with your truck" and proceeded to tell me i would have no problem towing the 9250 lb trailer i was looking at. I have since heard similar experiences.

 

Ok not going to try and pull that much. The thor trailor she bought is 7,900 dry wieght it does have 2axle and brake's. The truck does have a class 4 hitch 17" wheel's with nitto tera grappler tire's. So that should be fine to pull. Should i have a sway bars put on? The trailor is 32'

 

7,900 dry weight will be OK as long as you don't put anything in it. You're right at the max with the dry weight. You won't be able to add water, clothes or food, though.

 

Most all trailers have 2 axles and brakes Dirt. That isnt going to cheat you anything. Definitely invest in some sort of weight distributiin hitch. Sway control is nice as well but weight distribution is more important. It is also important to take the time to install the hitch properly so that it is doing what it is designed to do. When it is right, you should see the front end of the truck compress when you hook it all up instead of just squatting the rear end and pushing the nose up in the air.

It is difficult to go camping and not load gear in the trailer. Just be mindful of the weight you add. I am always on my wife about putting too much crap back there.

Your truck will probably pull it okay. But if i had to place a bet, i am going to say you will end up being technically overweight when all is said and done.

Also keep in mind that oversized tires can have a relative effect on your gear ratio (which i see you never posted here). Hopefully, you arent towing it far or up many hills. Your gas mileage will suck but dont be tempted to tow with overdrive engaged.

 

I don't know what rearend it has. I can't see anything on the pumpkin?

 

The gear ratio should be written in your glove box. Most 4x2's I've ever seen came with the 3.55 which make running in 4th a bear with that sort of weight/wind resistance and no way to lock it out.

 

I went to the rv place today to see if what ball and hitch would work. The guy just jiddly and said i need the weight dis seesstem sorry for the bad spelling . So i that and the brake box up in the cab. Anther $600 but it will be right and safe.