More MPG?
Record Breaker
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,519
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^^^ This. I live across the street from my university now so I either walk to class or work (I work on campus as well) if I'm feeling up to it or ride the bike one of my co workers gave me for free because it was too big for her. The only time I drive now is to go to the store, run errands and drive to PT in the morning because no one wants to ride their bike to PT at 5 in the morning lol. Moral is only drive the truck when you need to and you'll make the tank last longer. I've gone 3 weeks and used a little over half a tank.
Veteran
Joined: May 2012
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All that being said, I hope you find that once you check the numbers by hand after your next trip, you'll see numbers in the higher teens if strickly on the highway. With a stock setup, your 14 seems low to me and I've never come anywhere close to that low with any gearing or interstate speed up to 75-80mph.
Registered User
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
I have a 99 1500 5.2. I put 225/75/16 on it got +1 or 2. Then intake and E-fan got additional +2. I went from 11 avg to 15. This is my work truck. I'm driving about 100 miles a day atleast loaded with tools all the time. Tires are D rated too. New front end. Clean the throttle body regularly as well as Valvoline high miliage on the 3000 dot. I plan on Modding the intake manifold when I change the Plenum . Have rattling cat so be doing cat back exhaust. Any suggestions would be great. There is always a way to improve a block. Sometimes updating the tech like a e-fan or computer or like everyone said maintenance on schedule like oil cleaning the TB etc always help. Just think about what you have and what you want. Also keep your diff tranny and transfer case stock with fresh fluids. Pack your bearings with good high heat grease allignment in check. Tires inflated. What helps is good quality and good habbits. If you slack on anything your gonna be dissapointed
Last edited by 99ramworkn; May 4, 2013 at 10:26 PM.
Veteran
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 375
Likes: 1
I'm going to try to explain my perspective with those overhead gizmo's.. I don't know if I can or not.. but I'm going to try...
it calculates engine speed/speedometer speed/ and I'm pretty sure vacuum signal plays a roll in there too..
when you are sitting at idle, the engine registers 650RPM'ish, and the engine load is figured (no load on engine idling except for accessories like maybe fans, a/c, or current if you've got a stupid heavy draw)- and all divided by MPH... whallah: estimated economy.. and, you're getting 0 MPG..
if you are rolling at engine idle speeds, you are getting 'something' out of that gas other than just sitting there at 0mpg.. the engine is registering load, though, via vacuum signal.. and, you're getting (for the purpose of discussion) 15MPG... you haven't buried the engine under load, and you're getting something out of your engine idle speed..
when you're moving at highway speeds, say 70mph, and you aren't burying the engine with load (lower vacuum signal), you're getting (speaking terms) 15~17MPG.. the same as moving while idling.. but you and I both know it's not the same, right?
the computer doesn't...
that is why that thing is a toy.. you sit in traffic or warm up the engine extended periods of time for whatever reason? that 0mpg hurts your overall economy badly..
you linger at highway speeds for a full tank on level ground with a tailwind? you're going to get inflated numbers via your computer..
there is only one way to do it and one only, is my figuring- and even that is difficult.. you do the math.. gallons in divided my miles driven for the gallons your replacing.. why is that difficult?
for one, gas displaces different space at different temperatures..
for another, that little needle that gauges level of fuel isn't precise..
driving (like environment) conditions change..
traffic conditions change...
where you drive changes..
that little computer ain't worth the light it emits, unless you use it to discover an issue such as stupid high consumption..
the bright side? most often it registers lower than actual economy it's been my experience.
it calculates engine speed/speedometer speed/ and I'm pretty sure vacuum signal plays a roll in there too..
when you are sitting at idle, the engine registers 650RPM'ish, and the engine load is figured (no load on engine idling except for accessories like maybe fans, a/c, or current if you've got a stupid heavy draw)- and all divided by MPH... whallah: estimated economy.. and, you're getting 0 MPG..
if you are rolling at engine idle speeds, you are getting 'something' out of that gas other than just sitting there at 0mpg.. the engine is registering load, though, via vacuum signal.. and, you're getting (for the purpose of discussion) 15MPG... you haven't buried the engine under load, and you're getting something out of your engine idle speed..
when you're moving at highway speeds, say 70mph, and you aren't burying the engine with load (lower vacuum signal), you're getting (speaking terms) 15~17MPG.. the same as moving while idling.. but you and I both know it's not the same, right?
the computer doesn't...
that is why that thing is a toy.. you sit in traffic or warm up the engine extended periods of time for whatever reason? that 0mpg hurts your overall economy badly..
you linger at highway speeds for a full tank on level ground with a tailwind? you're going to get inflated numbers via your computer..
there is only one way to do it and one only, is my figuring- and even that is difficult.. you do the math.. gallons in divided my miles driven for the gallons your replacing.. why is that difficult?
for one, gas displaces different space at different temperatures..
for another, that little needle that gauges level of fuel isn't precise..
driving (like environment) conditions change..
traffic conditions change...
where you drive changes..
that little computer ain't worth the light it emits, unless you use it to discover an issue such as stupid high consumption..
the bright side? most often it registers lower than actual economy it's been my experience.
After this long explanation you got the most major part of the math wrong, its NOT gallons divided by miles it's miles divided by gallons, miles driven divided by gallons used, not the other way around
Banned Goober Smoocher
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 8,916
Likes: 1
To poke in on this old thread.
I think the only thing someone can do is mod for power, and just keep their foot out of it. It all comes down to discipline. If your truck has more power to get itself moving, it will get better mpg as the engine has to work less to get these aerodynamic bricks up to speed.
Just my .02.
I'm going on a road trip to NC next week, so it should be interesting to see what MPG dad's Ram gets up there.
I think the only thing someone can do is mod for power, and just keep their foot out of it. It all comes down to discipline. If your truck has more power to get itself moving, it will get better mpg as the engine has to work less to get these aerodynamic bricks up to speed.
Just my .02.
I'm going on a road trip to NC next week, so it should be interesting to see what MPG dad's Ram gets up there.
Champion
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 2,697
Likes: 3
From: Cape Carteret NC
perfect stoich is 14.7:1.... it's said perfect for performance is around 13.5:1, and perfect economy is around 15.5:1... sensors/pcm's keep a pretty good grip on a/f ratio, and attempt to keep stoich ratios, but they ain't always perfect.. they will bounce between 13:1 and 16:1 depending on driving.. when pop the throttle, the engine takes a second to be able to match up air:catalyst, which makes you momentarily burn rich... running a high RPM and abruptly closing the blades will cause a momentary lean burn..
keeping your foot out of it, and slowly making throttle adjustments that the trim can adjust to quicker is the key to economy, and it has much more to do with your foot and driving habits on a healthy engine than it does any other trick in the book.
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Northern Calif.
no K&N for me
Ditto on the last comment, the right foot has the most influence. As for the K&N setups that claim to add 10 HP, look at the charts on the their site. The gain is mostly over 4,000 RPM. But down in the basement from around 1K up to 2K or 2.5K there is a steady drop in hp of more than 10 hp on most of their "tuned" products. And that is a bigger kick in the nuts (percentage wise) down there where power is already lower. And you'll hear about it everytime you are towing, or pulling long slight grades. most really don't need more than what the Hemi will give on the top end, and will rarely use it. Those that do have probably already modded the exhaust, maybe higher ratio rockers, etc. and that is where the K&N system really shines. Stock system is not too restrictive for stock engine combo and normal driving, jsut keep the filter changed when dirty and its fine.