Installed a sub, with my factory sound system
#1
Installed a sub, with my factory sound system
Hey guys,
I've got the basic 4 speaker system, no nav, with single cd head unit.
I'm planning to replace the whole sound system, but gotta do these things in steps, heh. So, since on this system the speakers get very muddy and start to burp at around 22-23 volume with any significant bass on the EQ, I figured I'd start with a sub so I can turn down the bass at the EQ but still have bass. In fact far MORE bass, but that's assumed.
I bought one of the dual 10" custom enclosures designed to fit under the back seat of the quad cab. I already had an amp, but since it is a low watt amp (An old Rockford Punch 360a2, pushing 360 a few hundred watts RMS in 2 ohms) I only got one sub for now.
I got a Kicker 10" CVR. Nice speaker, got a great deal at SonicElectronix.com for $60/speaker.
I don't have a head unit yet, so I also picked up a line input pad, a PAC unit.
Ran a power cable from the battery, through the firewall, under the driver's side entrance trim to the back seat... along the way I singled out the rear door speaker wire, a twisted pair of Gray wires with green and dark green tracers. I tapped into these speaker wires with quick taps, and then led a set of twisted speaker wires along with the power cable to the back seat.
Used the mounting bolt of the back seat as my ground.
The speaker enclosure is actually two enclosures designed to sit in the "cubby" spaces under the seats, with a connecting piece between them. I wanted to mount the amp between the two spaces, but the enclosure was too tall, making the back seat hit the amp when lowered. I decided to cut the connecting piece off of the enclosure, effectively making it two completely seperate and modular 10" enclosures. Since I've only got one speaker at this time, I stored the remaining enclosure.
I wired the signal from the rear left door speaker into the PAC unit, and then ran RCA cables from the unit into the amp.
The sub is a Dual 4 Ohm voice coil set up, so I wired the speaker in parrallel to get a 2 Ohm total load.This lets me get the max power from my amp.
I didn't want to pull out the stock head unit, so instead of running a remote cable to an accessory wire somewhere, I wired a switch between the B+ cable for the amp and the remote terminal. I just reach back and turn the amp on/off as needed, instead of relying on an acc signal.
I mounted the amp in the middle under the rear seat.
All in all, it's anice upgrade to the sound in the truck, though it's far from perfect.
It gives me some real bass, and lets me get a bit louder without distortion from the door speakers.
Whole thing cost me about $200, because I did all the install myself. Box was $85, speaker was $60, PAC unit was $12, allplus tax, and then I spent $32 on cabling, connectors, and a switch.
I plan to replace the head unit next, and when I do so I will run RCA's from the headunit to the amp, deleting the PAC unit and getting a MUCH cleaner/tighter bass response from the sub, since it's running on a regular speaker signal at this point.
Then comes door speakers, 3 way up front and 2 way in the rear.
After these are done, I'll get a real amp and install the second sub. I'll probably also get a second amp for the door speakers.
Then we'll sound awesome. =)
I've got the basic 4 speaker system, no nav, with single cd head unit.
I'm planning to replace the whole sound system, but gotta do these things in steps, heh. So, since on this system the speakers get very muddy and start to burp at around 22-23 volume with any significant bass on the EQ, I figured I'd start with a sub so I can turn down the bass at the EQ but still have bass. In fact far MORE bass, but that's assumed.
I bought one of the dual 10" custom enclosures designed to fit under the back seat of the quad cab. I already had an amp, but since it is a low watt amp (An old Rockford Punch 360a2, pushing 360 a few hundred watts RMS in 2 ohms) I only got one sub for now.
I got a Kicker 10" CVR. Nice speaker, got a great deal at SonicElectronix.com for $60/speaker.
I don't have a head unit yet, so I also picked up a line input pad, a PAC unit.
Ran a power cable from the battery, through the firewall, under the driver's side entrance trim to the back seat... along the way I singled out the rear door speaker wire, a twisted pair of Gray wires with green and dark green tracers. I tapped into these speaker wires with quick taps, and then led a set of twisted speaker wires along with the power cable to the back seat.
Used the mounting bolt of the back seat as my ground.
The speaker enclosure is actually two enclosures designed to sit in the "cubby" spaces under the seats, with a connecting piece between them. I wanted to mount the amp between the two spaces, but the enclosure was too tall, making the back seat hit the amp when lowered. I decided to cut the connecting piece off of the enclosure, effectively making it two completely seperate and modular 10" enclosures. Since I've only got one speaker at this time, I stored the remaining enclosure.
I wired the signal from the rear left door speaker into the PAC unit, and then ran RCA cables from the unit into the amp.
The sub is a Dual 4 Ohm voice coil set up, so I wired the speaker in parrallel to get a 2 Ohm total load.This lets me get the max power from my amp.
I didn't want to pull out the stock head unit, so instead of running a remote cable to an accessory wire somewhere, I wired a switch between the B+ cable for the amp and the remote terminal. I just reach back and turn the amp on/off as needed, instead of relying on an acc signal.
I mounted the amp in the middle under the rear seat.
All in all, it's anice upgrade to the sound in the truck, though it's far from perfect.
It gives me some real bass, and lets me get a bit louder without distortion from the door speakers.
Whole thing cost me about $200, because I did all the install myself. Box was $85, speaker was $60, PAC unit was $12, allplus tax, and then I spent $32 on cabling, connectors, and a switch.
I plan to replace the head unit next, and when I do so I will run RCA's from the headunit to the amp, deleting the PAC unit and getting a MUCH cleaner/tighter bass response from the sub, since it's running on a regular speaker signal at this point.
Then comes door speakers, 3 way up front and 2 way in the rear.
After these are done, I'll get a real amp and install the second sub. I'll probably also get a second amp for the door speakers.
Then we'll sound awesome. =)
#2
RE: Installed a sub, with my factory sound system
here's some pics....
Keep in mind, this amp is fairly temporary, so I didn't spend any time hiding the wires under the seat. They are not visible when the seat is down.
When I install the right amp and other sub, I will run all the cabling underneath the dark carpet,you won't be able to see any wires except at eruption points centimeters from their respective jacks.
Keep in mind, this amp is fairly temporary, so I didn't spend any time hiding the wires under the seat. They are not visible when the seat is down.
When I install the right amp and other sub, I will run all the cabling underneath the dark carpet,you won't be able to see any wires except at eruption points centimeters from their respective jacks.
#3
#4
RE: Installed a sub, with my factory sound system
I was told to stay away from those type of enclosures because they dont sound good.I want to try one because they are pretty inexpensive.Overall,how would you rate it?I have a Kenwood indash DVD unit so I would be using the RCA's,but Im interested in your thought on the box.
#6
RE: Installed a sub, with my factory sound system
Those enclosures are tuned specifically for the quad cab, so they are a good choice. The cvr 10 wants a bit bigger enclosure but if it sounds good to you, thats all that matters. I may go for the mtx loaded set up(had to give up my cvr 12's when i got the truck). So for now its alpine deck and db pold 6x9's/6 1/2's. system sounds great matt.
#7
RE: Installed a sub, with my factory sound system
I'm considering swapping in a different subwoofer before I finalize the system, having listened to it all day, I think that perhaps the enclosure is too tight for the cvr10. I will, however, wait to make that judgement until I get a better amp behind it, and a better headunit driving it.
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#8
#9
RE: Installed a sub, with my factory sound system
I have been going back and forth on adding a sub for weeks. I am pretty sure that I do not want to upgrade my headunit. How about getting one of those signal processors or something that convert the headunit signal to a regular speaker signal. Also, how difficult was it to wire up the way you did it?
#10
RE: Installed a sub, with my factory sound system
ORIGINAL: cpukramer
I have been going back and forth on adding a sub for weeks. I am pretty sure that I do not want to upgrade my headunit. How about getting one of those signal processors or something that convert the headunit signal to a regular speaker signal. Also, how difficult was it to wire up the way you did it?
I have been going back and forth on adding a sub for weeks. I am pretty sure that I do not want to upgrade my headunit. How about getting one of those signal processors or something that convert the headunit signal to a regular speaker signal. Also, how difficult was it to wire up the way you did it?
I just put a Kenwood Excelon in dash dvd system in my 07 and I cant believe the difference.Even with the stock speakers,its a night and day difference.I cant wait to get a sub or two.