Hello Forum,

I just purchased a genesis 9007 6000k Hid conversion kit for my 2003 Ram 2500. I installed the kit and the lights flicker (strobe effect) and the lamp out indicator on the dash is on. Some one told me i need a HID Cancller kit. Any one have this done please post some information.

 

Search around on many dodge forums; this may not have been addressed here, but I have read posts regarding this issue. The lamp out was fixed by using some resistors if I remember right to make it seem like you had high beams. As far as the flicker goes, I have no idea on that one.

 

yea i had to do that on my truck get that box. i payed 50$ for it i forget where tho ill have to look. but yea having that box stops the flickering. it dose not get rid of the lamp out tho. there is ways to get around it but its not a big deal to me tho.

 

I have this problem with the Tsun-Tien kit I got on eBay for the projector lenses I got for my 2004 1500 Hemi. I think I also know what the problem is as well.

When you start your truck, one of the tests the computer performs is on continuity of all external lights on your truck (to test for possible bad bulbs). Since the ballasts for HIDs likely prevent the continuity check from completing successfully, I suspect that the computer reduces the amount of power available to the headlights, causing the lights to flicker as the ballasts cannot sustain enough of a charge to keep them on.

The easiest solution I have found is to turn your lights on before even putting the key in the ignition. Give them about 5 seconds to warm up, then continue starting.

Keep in mind that if you turn your highbeams on completely (not simply flashing but turning them on), then your headlights shut off and when you try to turn them back on, the computer tests again for continuity - the lights will flicker again. If you are flying down the highway (as I was just yesterday) and accidentally turn the highs completely on instead of flashing, don't pull over when your lights flicker, just put the truck in neutral, turn it off, and restart it (make sure you are not turning, loss of power-steering is a bitch at 70mph).

Also, as long as your lights are on when you start your truck, the Lamp Out indicator will not light up either. I just leave my lights on all the time now - when you lock the doors with the keyfob, the truck automatically turns the lights off after a couple of minutes to prevent battery drain. As soon as you unlock the doors with the keyfob they turn back on, and you don't have to remember to turn them on yourself before starting up.

 

Try running a seperate power feed from your battery to both your HID ballasts.
Run the battery feeds through a set of relays for both safety and to also, switch your HID's on from your normal cab light switch.
Just tap into your normal 12v feed switiching on your normal lights for this and connect it to the input solenoid side, of your relays.
This will give more power to the ballasts, as this is the problem causing your flickering. The standard power feed to your normal lights isn't man enough for the job.
Make sure you use some decent gauge power cable to feed the ballasts from the relays.
The lamp out deal is sorted by the resistor mod as mentioned above.
Hope this helps.
AL.

 

Considering HIDs use less power than regular halogen bulbs, the standard power is more than enough. If it weren't then turning on the lights before starting my truck would be useless as they get less power just running off battery than they would from the alternator. They work just fine both on battery only and with the truck running, provided they are turned on before start. The only modification that is necessary at all is the resistor, but only if turning your headlights on before starting is too much of a pain to remember.

Although it will work, running separate power from the battery is unnecessary and complicates things. You'll have to modify the stock headlight connectors, which also supply power to the highbeams, or find/make an extension that bypasses the headlight power lead while leaving the highbeam lead intact. You'll have to modify the positive connection to the battery (or just tap the positive lead) and route the cables around the engine compartment and make sure they stay put. Plus, the added relays add another possible point of failure down the road. And of course don't forget that there is not a whole lot of room behind the headlight housings to begin with and cable management is already a PITA.

 

Hid's use less power......................yes, the bulbs do, but the high voltage ballasts that provide the power to get the bulbs to light up in the first, place do not.
This is direct from the McCulloch web site:-

"
This product will also come complete with a wiring harness. The wiring harness provides the HID's with direct power from the battery and preserves your electrical system for the future. Since the initial power surge for HID's is high - the wiring harness will also prevent any flickering or strobe of the bulbs. The wiring harness plugs directly into your OEM headlight harness via mating connectors. The harness provided will include upgraded fuses and relays to ensure you do not draw a higher current from your stock harness than it was designed to provide. This new design will enable the product be used in a wider variety of applications. Furthermore, the entire set-up has been designed to offer higher levels of water and heat resistance. "

My own experience also leads me to suggest either getting a new wiring conversion or a DIY approach as I did.
Al.

 

I also had this same problem. I bought a kit with with high/low beam capability with a relay included. The relay has a plug to recieve one of the factory headlamp connectors and also has a lead with a fuse that connects to the battery. The factory wiring is simply used to tell the relay to turn on and for high/low switching. Problem though...The "lamp out" indicator is on. Well I found out from a 20 Dodge Electrical Systems Tech that the "Lamp Out" system doesn't work on continuity it works on resistance. The strobe effect is cause by this system doing its check.A small amount of current is applied to the circuit (the HID lights come on - see the ballast needs only between 6-14vdc to opperate whereas the small amount of current isnt enough to light the fillamet of a halogen lamp), when it doesn't see enough resistance (thinking the lamp is out) the circuit is shut down. Then the process starts over again. Your strobe effect. As time goes by a halogen lamp's filiment wears out causing even more resistance until finaly is burns through. To solve the problem you should find that you will need roughly a 1ohm resistor per location including high and low beam. I did it to mine and it works fine. I also had the problem when changing my fog lights to HID and all my other lamps to LED.

 

Hey HemiAtWork,
I recently purchased two LED 168 for my license plate. These are the concave LEDs from ebay for about 6 bucks. I put them on and light up but not as strong or high as advertised. Which ones did you buy? and if so, do they look kinda dim also?
Thanks

PS- I dont have a lamp out after the change. I guess it doesnt work on license plate bulbs.

 

I'll have to check which ones I bought exactly. I too purchased mine on e-bay. I don't remember having to do any mods for those though and they aren't dim. My tail lights and well heck every other Led replacement lit dimly also until i added some resistance to the circuit.