New Ram owner as of today. Pulled the triggeron a 2003 SLT Quad Cab 4X4 4.7L
Has trailer tow prep with 3.92 ratio and anti-spin.
Only options I wish it would have had are keyless remote and fogs. Those can be added later.

I'm excited to be a truck owner again (sold my 1990 Bronco back in 2005) and apologies for not spending much time searching yet.

48,700 miles on it when I fired it up for the test drive. Got it for 16,900 out the door (taxes and title fee included).

The purchase got hurried becuase what was supposed to be a 3 hour drive to the dealership (no good deals locally) turned into a 5 hour drive with the 2 year old and 3 week old needing to be seen to. When I got there the small town dealership was closed except for the salesman I'd been dealing with by phone and e-mail for two weeks and the finance guy.

I took a bit shorter test drive than I would have liked to have but all seemed well. It was only AFTER I've signed all the papers and have left (dealership closed) that I hear a noise from the rear end when backing out of a parking space. It's a groaning sound and happens on tight, low speed turns so I suspect it's the Anti-spin.

Do I need to consider using my 3 day right to cancel by law in my state or is this something that's probably easily dealt with?

I popped the plug out of the diff cover and checked the fluid level. It's fine. Is it possible that the fluid was changed and friction modifer left out? Would it be safe to add some or is the amount to mix in specific?

I love the truck otherwise. Since I still have powertrain warranty to 70,000 miles I might use that rather than return the truck.

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I can't give you a definitive answer to your question, but if it were me I'd definitely be contemplating backing out of the deal. From what I've read on here in the past, real problems can develop from not changing the rear diff fluid at the required intervals (there was a rash of questions on here regarding that a while ago). With now 49,000 miles on it, there's no telling if the previous owner/s performed the required regular maintenance on it (thought I'm sure the dealer swore up and down that they did).

Also, at first glance at the details, that really doesn't seem like you got too good of a deal on it, to be quite honest. I read about people on here getting virtually the same truck in an '06 or '07 model with the 5.7L for low $20's. $17K for an '03 with 49,000 miles seems a bit... much. I dunno. It could very well be fair market value for it. Personally, I'd spend the next 24 hours searching and calling every dealership in a 12 hour radius to see if they can beat that deal. I bet you can get a better truck at a better price.

Someone else might be able to give more experienced advice, but that's my gut feeling.

 

I agree.... it is hard to tell.... the 7 70 should cover the diff if it is the problem... it could be the suspension as well... either way i thing Chet is right. Return it.... I was looking this weekend at 25/3500's to replayce my 1500 Hemi... I saw a NICE 20051500 4x4 Hemi with what looks like a 2" life aftermarket tires and exhaust. Aftermarket DVD system with 38,000 miles..... price....16,200...that is the window paint... i'm sure it could be brought down quite a bit.... There could be a carfax issue with it, but i looked over the vehicle (mostly because i want my 25/35 to look simular) and the body and frame are strait. engine is clean and everything looks up to par.... there is just not a big demand for older rams.... the dealer can buy then from auction (05-06's) for around 12.... add dealer prep and crap... your looking at 14-15 invested max from the dealer.... on your's they are probabily making close to 3 grand off you...... that's just my .02 worth...

 

Well it seems like we have the same situation. I bought mine from a dealer budy from the auction. so I cant take it back plus I have had it for six weeks now. I paid the auction price pluse his $800 fee so I paid $15,500 out the door. I was driving it home and it shook real bad when I applied the brakes.I am an ASE certified mechanic. So when I did make it home I went over it with a fine tooth comb. so this being said I have replaced the front rotors,calipers, and pads to correct the shake while braking. the upper ball joints so a proper alignment could be done. the heater core was leaking (previous owner bypassed it) (the jerk!) so I yanked the dash and replaced it. and to top it all off I had to take it to the dealer so the rear end could be replaced under the 7-70k. but now that this is all done.....I love my truck. no other truck has this kinda room. this kinda gas milage and that smooth ride as my dodge!!

 

So even with the wholesale angle you only beat me by $1,000. Bet you're located somewhere in the Southeast.

The truck market here is just stupid. I've been trying since the end of September to make a full size crew cab 4X4 happen for under $15K and just haven't been able to (had some other limitations like had to come from a franchised dealer and have less than 70K miles).

Closest I came was a 2004 Nissan Titan with 68K on it for $15,500 out the door and it had a questionable Cafax history and lacked power mirrors (one of my make or beak features).

If I was willing to fly across the freaking country and drive back I could probably beat the price I got but that's such a headache.

I researched this price for weeks. It was about 1,000 less than NADA suggested retail for my area and about $1,000 above Edmund's. Probably the only way to beat it would have been to buy from an individual but since I'm financing that adds an extra headache.

Hopefully the rear diff is OK and I won't have to be searching any more. I'm just sick of seeing the insane prices.

 

Try this, when you 1st start hearing that noise pump the brakes once pretty quick, not enough to stop but enough to get them to grab. I think i have the same issue and after messing with it for a month, myself and with the dealer it turns out its the brakes. Mines so bad it shakes the stearing wheel, but as soon as i tap the brakes no noise.

Joe

 

As an expriment I plugged in a radius of 300 miles from my zip code into Auto Trader for 2003 4 door 4X4 Rams with under 60K miles.


$20,329
Highest price

$14,999
Lowest price

$17,921
Average price

So, I guess I got an average deal.

Oh and the average price goes up the tighter I make my radius to my zip.

 

Interesting. I'll give that a shot today.

This sound would have to be either brakes or the clutches in the diff. Last night when making a right turn close to home the feel reminded me of back when I had the Lock Right in the back of my old Bronco. Sort of grabby.

 

First thing I would do if the brakes are ok is pull the rear diff cover. (its going to cost about $40 in lube and additive) look on the bottom where the magnet is and see if you have an eclip looking thing (refer to other threads about eclips in diffs) if you dont find any there look at your actual clutches of the anti spin. in mine I found some had the clips and some didnt. you can see just by looking with a flash light. But if I were you I would have it taken care of now under warranty. mine would have cost me $1385.86. make sure you insitst that the warr cover it. my dealer tried the "we have never ran across or even heard of this before" angle. I had to remind him I was a mechanic and Its all over this web site about the rear end issues. and yes im from florida.

 

That's real close to what the prices are like where I live. Around my part of Idaho the used truck market is wierd i payed 17K for my truck 6 months ago with 55,000 miles (I was in the same boat had to be a actual car dealer no private party sales), And I shopped 300 miles all directions for a better deal. Used trucks really hold their value here. As for the rear end search "c-clip failures".