Homemade CAI...Whaddya Think?..KillerBud Check this out
Hey guys, finished my CAI yesterday. I made it out of 4" PVC straight into the TB, removing the old airhat.. Earlier pictures were me adjusting the fit so no mounting bracket or sensor, but in the darker pics, you can see where I added them. This is about $35 worth of supplies from the hardware store (including those rubber boots, Killer) and some PR4 + CLEAR that i had laying around....
So...Am I an idiot, or is this slightly cool?
So...Am I an idiot, or is this slightly cool?

I am getting ready to fabricate some kind of heat sheild for it....Anyone have any suggestions?
Oh here is that sensor mounted in, btw
Oh here is that sensor mounted in, btw
well you did a good job and all i think it looks nice.... its just i heard that the pvc is not under the hood and the heat plus the pvc makes the intake give off bad gasses...
hmmmm.... Thanks for the heads up. I will keep an eye on it to see if there is deterioration from the heat. I was kinda just doing thisa a temporary kinda thing, because i REALLY like how that ram air hood looks, and I figure I will go ahead and make it fully functional.
But that will be later in the year. Maybe I can put some heat sheild on it. I opened it yesterday after 45min of driving, and the tube seemed completely cool, even on the bottom side.
But that will be later in the year. Maybe I can put some heat sheild on it. I opened it yesterday after 45min of driving, and the tube seemed completely cool, even on the bottom side.
Greggiedoes have a point [:@](which I really hate to admit, 'cause he thinks his **** don't stink as it is!)
But PVC can be some nasty stuff it it gets hot. Years ago, when I had a networking business, I bid on, and was awarded, a job going through some very new schools and pulling out all the CAT5 PVC network cable that had only recently been run when the schools were built. A SEVERE no-no when it came to building code that the fire inspector subsequently caught.
I had to replace it ALL with plenum cable because when PVC starts to melt it gives off very toxic fumes.
Don't know if it'll get hot enough under there for it to be an issue, but you might just want to keep an eye on it for any signs of heat/melting just to be safe.
Oh, BTW, it looks cool as hell, though...
But PVC can be some nasty stuff it it gets hot. Years ago, when I had a networking business, I bid on, and was awarded, a job going through some very new schools and pulling out all the CAT5 PVC network cable that had only recently been run when the schools were built. A SEVERE no-no when it came to building code that the fire inspector subsequently caught.
I had to replace it ALL with plenum cable because when PVC starts to melt it gives off very toxic fumes.
Don't know if it'll get hot enough under there for it to be an issue, but you might just want to keep an eye on it for any signs of heat/melting just to be safe.
Oh, BTW, it looks cool as hell, though...
hell yea that looks good yours look better then mine but since i put mine oni been checkin for meltin so far all isgood im goin keep mine for a while i like it..
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HAHA I Love It. Thats AWESOME... That Looks Like 3" Though.
Well If I Have Any Influence On The Heat Situation... Here's A Spin.
If You Know I Have An HVAC Company (Thats Heating Ventilation and Cooling).. The New 90+ Furnaces Use PVC To Exhaust. Insead Of The Standard Single Heat Exchanger System In A 78%-80% Efficient Systems (Thats The Standard Metal Flue To Chimney), The 90+ Furnaces Use A Secondary Heat Exchanger Systems Which When Seen, Looks Like A Simple Radiatior/ Intercooler.
That Being Said - W/ The Secondary Heat Exchanger It Allows The Exhaust Gasses To Cool More (Creating More Heat Per Input BTU - Hense The 10% Gain In Efficency). In An 80% Furnace Moisture Is The Enemy.. Thats Why Double Wall Pipe Is Used, or A Chimney Liner In A Clay Tile Setup. BUT! - In A 90%+ Furnace, It Cools Down So Rapidly, It Creates Moisture Which Is Part Sulfuric Acid. Thats Why The Furnace Has To Actually "Drain" The Exhaust.

Thanks To Your Daily Issue You Have Brought Up Mfs I Wanted To See What The Standard 90% Furnace Exhaust Gasses Tempature Reaches Inside The PVC Itself. I Used My Wire Tempature Probe And Placed It IN The Exhaust Flue Itself...
But Astonishisng It's Only 84 Degrees In 1st Stage And 91 Degress In 2nd Stage.


And Looking At My 3" SCH40 Pipe "FOR DRAIN AND VENT ONLY" I Found That The MAX Tempature For PVC Pipe Is 140 Degrees.. Proven by This Website -
http://www.harvel.com/pipepvc-sch40-80-derating.asp
It Doesn't Say WHAT Happends At 140 Degrees But Standard SCH40 Pipe Allots Only 140 Degrees.
So.. If Under The Hood Reaches 140 Degrees or More.. The Issue May Arrise. I Really Don't Think With The Consistant Vaccum Inside The Intake The Hot Air Would Sit.
BUT Where I Would See The Issue Arrive Is When The Vehicle Shuts Off. The Tempature From The Motor Would Seep Into The PVC And May Be Well Over 140 Degrees.
Back When I Had My Jeep I Created A PVC Snorkel For It, But 3' From The Throttle Body I Left In The Stock Rubber Boot Allowing It To HOPEFULLY Cool By The Time It Reaches The PVC.
Hope That Helps.. Maybe Overkill But Thats My Middle Name.
Well If I Have Any Influence On The Heat Situation... Here's A Spin.
If You Know I Have An HVAC Company (Thats Heating Ventilation and Cooling).. The New 90+ Furnaces Use PVC To Exhaust. Insead Of The Standard Single Heat Exchanger System In A 78%-80% Efficient Systems (Thats The Standard Metal Flue To Chimney), The 90+ Furnaces Use A Secondary Heat Exchanger Systems Which When Seen, Looks Like A Simple Radiatior/ Intercooler.
That Being Said - W/ The Secondary Heat Exchanger It Allows The Exhaust Gasses To Cool More (Creating More Heat Per Input BTU - Hense The 10% Gain In Efficency). In An 80% Furnace Moisture Is The Enemy.. Thats Why Double Wall Pipe Is Used, or A Chimney Liner In A Clay Tile Setup. BUT! - In A 90%+ Furnace, It Cools Down So Rapidly, It Creates Moisture Which Is Part Sulfuric Acid. Thats Why The Furnace Has To Actually "Drain" The Exhaust.

Thanks To Your Daily Issue You Have Brought Up Mfs I Wanted To See What The Standard 90% Furnace Exhaust Gasses Tempature Reaches Inside The PVC Itself. I Used My Wire Tempature Probe And Placed It IN The Exhaust Flue Itself...
But Astonishisng It's Only 84 Degrees In 1st Stage And 91 Degress In 2nd Stage.


And Looking At My 3" SCH40 Pipe "FOR DRAIN AND VENT ONLY" I Found That The MAX Tempature For PVC Pipe Is 140 Degrees.. Proven by This Website -
http://www.harvel.com/pipepvc-sch40-80-derating.asp
It Doesn't Say WHAT Happends At 140 Degrees But Standard SCH40 Pipe Allots Only 140 Degrees.
So.. If Under The Hood Reaches 140 Degrees or More.. The Issue May Arrise. I Really Don't Think With The Consistant Vaccum Inside The Intake The Hot Air Would Sit.
BUT Where I Would See The Issue Arrive Is When The Vehicle Shuts Off. The Tempature From The Motor Would Seep Into The PVC And May Be Well Over 140 Degrees.
Back When I Had My Jeep I Created A PVC Snorkel For It, But 3' From The Throttle Body I Left In The Stock Rubber Boot Allowing It To HOPEFULLY Cool By The Time It Reaches The PVC.
Hope That Helps.. Maybe Overkill But Thats My Middle Name.



