you have to be a little more specific bud. like what kind of amp. what size wire. battery power. voltage comin off the amp. eq,crosovr,etc. and your ohm load on the speakers if you have the right ohm on the amp (need to learn ohms law too buddy to talk to me if you know your stuff)and amptuned rightthere are alot of dynamics to get the correct wattage off a an amp and depends on what amp you have because of the efficenty rate too... so tell me all that if you even know it before you come back again

 

dude your a joke...... I am not trying to win a audio contest just know my my amp will be able to power those speakers

 

allena just wondering. but I wanna see ur Termlab sheets from that 151.6 in a sealed box with two kicker CVX's. either u weren't using a termlab mic or ur talking out ur ***. and u musta built a poor ported box because ported shoulda been a good bit louder by at least 3 db in almost every application. urs mighta been special. but if ur hittin ga 151.6 on two CVX's ur either bsing all of us or u arn't using a termlab mic because a 151.6 on a termlab would be like a 160 on some of the older mics.

his pre out voltage doesn't mean he won't get less wattage to his speakers. pre out voltage is all about the signal strength from h/u to ur amps. It does make life a bit easier on the amp when it has a higher input voltage. then it doesn't "technically" have to work as hard to amp that signal up to it's output voltage. That is only a minor difference when it comes to how hard the amp has gotta work. it's more about sound quality and signal strenght. which is really big when ur running multiple amps. and you don't need to know ohm's law to know how to wire speakers. while it is nice to know so you can check what ur amp should be putting out and what it actually is but really meh. you can use it to set gains if you want it to be exaclty on the dot. but at that point get an oscilliscope and check it for sine wave distortion. which comes into a clipped signal and yadda yadda yadda

Nemesis. he is right those TSA speakers are kinda not that great. they arn't bad but for 150 bucks you coulda got better. coulda got polk MMC690's for another like twenty bucks that would shred those things. what amp u gonna be running to these speakers or subs that you will be putting in.
you'll be pretty happy with the 6000 they are real nice good preout voltage, tons of adjustability. I don't like the 7 band graphic equalizer. i prefer parametric but meh.

 

They go for $150-$160 in the stores but I picked em up for $89 on radioshack.com

Whatever I had a Pioneer system stock on my cobalt before I gave the car to my gf...And that thing was all I needed to keep me happy

 

This stuff is funny!

 

bump kicker i blew my 5.25's without an amp even hooked to em in a week, not to mention the10 inch L7 i had on just a 400 watt load goin to it and blew that peice of junk too. i also had a buddy who went through 4 (yes FOUR) L7's, all pro installed (not circuit city) and they all sucked. we both wisened up and got JL everwhere. My advice .. save your money get JL, all come with lifetime warranty, not that you'll probabaly ever need it cause theyll hold everything you throw at it.

 

All you speaker guru's are really impressive 'n stuff, but whoever is riding shotgun is still having to crawl in and out the window 'cause none of youse are helping the poor kid fix his door handle.

 

I have an 8-track that sounds great in Mono with some Santana and Bee Gees.....

 

Smitty, You friggin crack me up![sm=funnypostabove.gif]

 

this is really a pointless conversation about which brand is better... blah blah blah. I have been in car audio since I was 15 and this year I turn 40. Been there, done that and the one point everyone here seems to be missing: IT ONLY TAKES10 WATTS OR LESSOF PURE DISTORTION TO KILL MOST SPEAKERS(not woofers, they are a bit more durable). So it really doesnt matter whether somebody buys cheapy pioneers or really expensive MB quarts or A.D.S. or what-have-you. If you have a crappy headunit, bad install and a cheapo amp your system will still sound like sh*t. In fact I have built ideal boxes and put K-mart 12" DVC's in them and they have lasted for years with the customers thrashing on them because the other equipment was quality AND I wasnt a moron and try to sell them a 500 watt amp for speakers that cant handle that much power, try a 75 per channel and thats with the gains turned down so when the radio is at full volume the speakers arent clipping.

Sometimes these arguements are just ridiculous.

I would bet you that I can put a system togther that uses less than 200 watts for the subs and you get some 1000 watt amp for yours and I can still make my system bump harder than yours... because it has nothing to do with the power your putting out, its all about arrangement, box volume and design.

**ADD**

And besides the surface area of a 12" woofer is the same regardless of what brand it is or how much wattage it can handle. And unless your using some super expensive comp woofer that has a 3 inch throw but requires 1200 watts RMS to drive, then for the most part any 12" will move the same amount of air as any other. Look at most of todays OEM speakers, like my Dodge truck. Its facotry 6x9's in the doors produce some real bass. It doesnt vibrate the car next to me but can produce some decent low frequency responce and all at the incredibly low wattage rating of less than 20 watts max a speaker!

What used to crack me up back in the day was the idiot that came in and would buy a head unit with say 40 watts per and then buy some 120 watt 6x9's for the rear deck and then after it was installed say "hey its not as loud as it was with the stock radio and speakers in". Gee really! its no wonder because of a term called headroom and with a 25 to 20 watt difference vs. a 40 to 120 watt difference the OEM system had more than the aftermarket system. Simply put, you have to match your system and just keep it simple. Simple is always better.

**another ADD**

Come to think of it, I think alot of todays salespersons/installers try to push the higher wattage equipment in order to get more bass because they truely lack the skills and/or knowledgeto build systems around what the customer can afford and power is an easier way out that compensates for better box designs which require a bit more planning and time to build/test. Check your local audio contests and see who is in the under 100 class and you will see somebody(usually) that has really tweaked the enviormental factors of his/her system to get good sound without all the power.