Don't get your Force all over the web pages and make them stick together.

 

Say Yeah------HAIL TO DA CHIEF!!!

 

since were all learning stuff today, can we learn what those ***** and switches are in the amps themselves anad how to properly use them? i have installed a pioneer dh23 headunit some not so great 6x9s in the front and a jensen 150 2 way amp. i know these are plain components but they are better than the OG and i plan on replaceing them with better in the future. but 4 now how do we "tune" the amp to make the dpeakers sound good with what we have . keep it simple please.

 

Yep smitty clipping it a huge issue. I love it when ppl turn their gain/input sens up the whole way so it's loud then blow their subs.

 

I didnt say a 200 watt amp and a 200 watt speaker first off... the poster that said this needs to go back and read more carefully. Secondly a 1000 watt speaker needs a 1000 watt amp now doesnt it? So if you have a 100 watt amp and a 100 watt speaker what makes you think that the air it moves is going to be any different than the amount of air the 1000 watt speaker/amp combo moves? wattage has nothing to do with the amount of air the woofer displaces. That being the case, physics takes over... you need to understand that the surface area of a 1000 watt woofer is the same as a 100 watt woofer meaning that they can both achieve the same sound wave due to surface movement. Its obvious that some people just dont get it and continue to feed into the power=better bass BS that most stereo shops sell you in order to make more money. Its also apparent that you have never seen an under 100 watt class vehicle hit over 150db before with only 1 10" woofer... yeh thats right, in an S-10 pickup in fact. I still have the woofer and the box but the punch 75 burned out a long time ago. It was in a friends truck because I cant compete legally without being in the pro-class and there's too much competition in it from shops and big-dog competitors with way more money than me.

 

I will try to keep this as simple as I can

The ***** are there to tune the amp to your ear or to your specific system. I have an Infinity 4 chanel amp sitting in my lap right now so this may not apply to other brands.

first this amp has a dial to set the input min/max this will be the ammount of power you put to your speakers. Example: my truck has 6x9's in the doors and 5x7's in the rear. the door speakers can handle more power so I would set the amp that way.

this amp has a crossover switch. this will let me set the frequency range to the speaker Hi-pass, lo-pass and flat. Since I have a sub, i dont need that much bass in the door speakers so i set it to hi-pass to give me highs, the rest should be self explaitory.

frequency 32-320 this allows you to add or subtract bass or hight to balance the speakers, too high? turn it down, too bassey, turn it up

Mono/stereo this ones pretty simple, if I am pushing a Sub, it would be on mono, with voice speakers, Stereo

I am no rocket surgeon, so take this with a grain of salt, i think i am correct but not 100% sure. The stereo Gurus in here will correct me if I am wrong!

 

The little plastic thing that fell out of the door is probably the clip that connects the door handle to the rod controlling the latch. Sometimes they pop-off when you pull the panels. It should just snap back on but you may have broken it. If so you will have to stop at dealer to order, it is not an "Autozone" type of part. Also, if youraudio system after upgrading makes you happy, then it is exactly what you needed. SmittyRN- Right on Bro. I have been in the 12v industry for almost 20yrs, great presentation. TANKZ400- You have one of the speakers out of phase in the front. Try thisriver speaker: Positive is : dk. grn/yel; negative is dk. grn/lt. blue. Passenger speaker: Positive is:gray/yellow; Negative is:gray/lt. blue.
Hope this info is helpful.

 

Well im glad i was came across this forum before i bought new top o line JL's to replace my front 6 by 9s and 3.5's, with the factory speakers. they probally wouldve just blown after a couple weeks. everything you guys are saying makes a lot of sense. and i will save my money for a complete system before blowing any speakers.

But in the meantime, what would be my best bet for replacing my blown infinity references speakers up front.(6 by 9) Would walmart cheapies sound the best with the infinity amp. I just want something that will go great with the factory infinty system. I just bought this truck and both 6 by 9's were blown so obviously the infinity references weren't good for the system either.

 

Viper I agree with you on the air movement deal. 12" subs all move same amount of air. barring they have the same excursion. o and I don't need to reread ur post I merely put numbers to what you were saying.

Now since u want to talk physics.

let's define wattage ie. power. Electical power is defined as Power= potential difference (voltage) x current. or mechanically power = work/time either way it works for this. now we can say that since time is constant between lets say a 100 watt sub and a 1000 watt sub each getting their appropriate rms wattage. that means that the work done by the 1000 watt sub is more than that of the 100 watt setup. because if power is greater and time is constant. we know algebraically that then work must increase. now Work = force x distance. Since the woofer cone in each case we will assume has the same amount of excursion. we know that the force is greater. basically what this means is yes you are moving the same amount of air. but that sub with more power is putting a much larger force onto that volume of air it is moving. that's why they call it SPL, sound pressure level. It's basically how much pressure you are making in the vehicle with that speaker.

o and for all this spker stuff we are assuming that all installs are done properly boxes set up correctly basically install is out of the equation.

A much simpler way for ppl to understand this is as follows. If you are saying what you said about speakers it can be applied to cars. power in this case is the horsepower of the engine. hp can be converted into watts it's like 752 watts = 1 hp or something like that. so from what you would be saying and it was true then a 400 hp corvette would make it down the track at the same rate as a 200 hp corvette. I use both corvettes that way air resistance and dynamics such as weight and other things don'tcome into play. We are assuming both drivers do the exact same thing as the other. now we all know that is not true. the 400 hp vet will win because it applys the work much faster than the 200 hp vette.

O and it may be possible for u to meter a 150 with such small sub and power. I can believe it. if a box is built damn goood it's totally possible. far fetched yes but not impossible. I will ask was this on a new termlab mic or some old school mic. also where was the mic placed in the vehicle. all these factors come into play. a box can meter a 150 in the port and only a 130 on the dash. also older meters read way way way higher than the newer termlabs. like about 10 db higher on an old mic at least.

 

i can agree with you there been, the 1k woofer will have considerably more impact than the 100, that wattage difference being true, at 10 times the wattage, the 1k woofer would be twice as loud, if i remember my equation of to double the volume you must increase the power 10:1