I just got the 4'x8' peice of 3/4" MDF. I cut the whole top piece out to match the frame. All I have to do now is cut the subwoofer hole and holes for the terminals. Then im going to nail the mdf to the frame the fiberglass both pieces together. As for the upholstry, I might be getting some leather that matches the interior or just black cloth then Im goin to add 1/4" of padding to give it a custom look and a little bit of cushion. I also have to raise the seats about a inch and a half just to give the subs some air.

 

I just built a custom box myself for 2 10" Infinity Perfect dvq's. I removed the carpet since it was going to be covered anyways and it gives you a noticeable difference in clearance and room to make your enclosure bigger. I molded my box right onto the floor. I like the amps behind the seats. i didn't actuall think there was enough room back there so I tucked them underneath the seats...barely!

Also, I dunno if you can raise the seats that much! The back brackets that hook into the back wall only have so much room to be able to go any higher. They already sit about 3/4" above the bar they hook to and when you lift the bottom of the seat up, the back part of the seat actually raises up another 1", so I would be carful on that as the back of the seat may come right off when you lift the bottom part up. I'm sure you can get someone to weld some metal to extend those brackets. Only reason I know this is because I was worried how high I could build my box without running into those issues. I measured 2-1/2" from the floorboard to the bottom of the seat for clearance in the back before the seat was rubbing. That's the height of my box includint the top plate and my subs barely clear the humps in the floor and that's with no bottom to the box as I molded it right to the floor. Using the sheetmetal as my box! Lots of liquid nails...lol(subs are 6" in depth and the bottom of the magnet meaures 6.5" which is the main culprit in fitment). They have no more than 1" from the floor both on sides and bottom.
I filled up the holes with packing peanuts to find the dimensions of what each sub would have since the holes weren't the same size just looking at them with my eyballs. If you look at the picture you will see that the driverside sub has what appears to be more room than the passengerside because the divider is much further over. They are as close as possible given all the contours of the floor. .95cu/ft each is what I came up with

 

Oh i see you used the floor as part of the box, I was thinking of doing that but I ended up fiberglassing. I also wanted to keep everything perfectley sealed and stiff. Did u put sound deadener on the metal or use polyfil?

 

The metal already has the factory Jute material or whatever they use, but I added some more. I basically covered the entire inside of the box. You can touch the box and it barely shakes.

Box is perfetly sealed. Subs take a minute to come back out.

 

Its nice to build your own but did you search.. for the amount you spent on resin and stuff there are a couple that are complete for around 300-400
http://www.supercrewsound.com/commer...d=146&catId=53
http://www.lightav.com/car/boxes/bas.../dodgeram.html

 

Yes but the way I did it uses the most airspace possible becuase I went to the back wall and its custom how I want it. I hate the looks of the fiberglass smooth look. What ever, it was expensive but it is kind of fun building and learning everything. Also I plan on fiberglassing other parts also like a new cover were the ash tray is to house switches and maybe some door panel pieces for tweeters.

 

I like how you have the amps mounted to the back wall. Do the seats still work normally after the amp install? I am in the planning stages for an install in my QC, and I was planning on mounting the amps under the front seats (although I haven't actually looked at space). However, I like the idea of mounting them behind the rear seats even better, as long as it doesn't interfere with the seats.

I'm planning on buying the middle seat replacement (since I don't use it anyway) and mounting a 12" in it. I've got Alpine type R components for the front, and type S 6.5's for the rear. I have an Alpine amp for the front and rears. The speakers and amp came out of our Durango.

I still haven't settled on a new HU, sub, or sub amp yet.

Thanks for the information!

joe

 

sick setup! Very impressive custom fab. I wish I had the resources to pull off something that elaborate

 

What did you use to hold your amps to the back wall? You didn't put screws or bolts through the back did you? I know some liquid nails would hold'em in their place....lol I love that stuff. I used 3 bottles for my install. Ohh, I went about 1" away from the back wall. The seat bolts were much easier than anticipated to put back in! I was surprised. I see your about the same height roughly 2-1/4" from the floor up. I'm 2-1/2" including the top MDF layer however your ontop of the carpet so that would make you as high as me. Boy I wish that was really true...lol I haven't smoked in years. Job priority. So you have tons of room now to install crossovers under your seats and/or possibly in the center hideaway! I have to use that compartment now for my towrope, gloves, flashlight,.etc.
Another thing, My amps are underneath the seats so that means I cannot put my jack anywhere, luckily it fits up underneath the passengerside rear seat. When the seat is down it gets wedged so it cannot move anywhere and it's out of plain sight.
I installed a Batcap300 I got it off Ebay for $130 shipped. It has 300cranking amps and recharges as fast as a capacitor. It has the equivelance to 100farads capacitor. It works great and is very small. 4"high3"wide5"long. weighs 5lbs. It has lasted me over 2 years so far with no issues. No dim lights ever! It allows for more reserve time as well. Check it out http://cgi.ebay.com/XStatic-BatCap-M...lenotsupported

 

My amps I used self tapping metal screws straight through the back wall then put up sound deadener that has a rubberized backing which sealed the screwholes. Trust me I was second guessing about screwing through the back wall but all the installers do it that way And it doesn't really matter becuase you can see it and I used stainless steel screws. The kicker amp is so heavy, I doubt any liquid nail would hold that up. The back seats work perfectley normal besides the my seat with the kicker amp, I had to space the amp out to get it above the vent. The seat still goes up but not all the way. How are those type r components? What is the midbass like and how much watts are you sending to them?