My full on system buildup
#21
#22
#23
Well the 12" for sure will not fit, So anyone have any ideas on subs. Im thinking type r
10's or kicker cvx 10's or maybe some really good jl 8's. who knows. I have a question, What would be the best way to raise the seats, Im thinking of 2 peices of mdf cut to fit that will raise the seats 1 1/2". Or will regular wood work. I would like to do metal tubing but That would be hard to wrap with carpet not to mention I don't have too many metal working tools.
10's or kicker cvx 10's or maybe some really good jl 8's. who knows. I have a question, What would be the best way to raise the seats, Im thinking of 2 peices of mdf cut to fit that will raise the seats 1 1/2". Or will regular wood work. I would like to do metal tubing but That would be hard to wrap with carpet not to mention I don't have too many metal working tools.
#25
First, My 2 10" Infinity Perfects sound great. I'm not into rap, but I like my music clean and bumping. Firm hit, not drawn out like 12's or 15's. I will never own another 12 again. Sure they hit harder but not as tight!
2nd, I had 2-10" JLw3v3s and replaced them with the Inifinty Perfects. The Infinity's blow the JL's away! Now, the w6 and w7 versions are a different story but then your going to run into the same depth clearance issues.
3rd, Using MDF to raise the seats is probably the best bet since the bolts that hold down the seats are like 2" long they ca be re-used. Now to the other thing, I mentioned this in a previous post. The back of the seats slides into a u-bar. The Jaw that goes in there moves up and down as you raise and lower the seat. There's only so much room before the Jaws will slide up and over those u-bars. I think you'll have a lot of trouble with that if you raise the seat too high. .75" is probably the most you can go. i would put the seat in place and see how much room you have to work with. You could always get a fabricator to weld longer jaws on there??
Like I said before, My box goes all the way to the back wall. Well 1" away. It is 2.5" high from the back floor. My seats are about 1/4-1/2" away from rubbing when I fold them down.
Type R's are a good sub. You have to pay attn to how big the magnet is width wise. That's another reason I removed the carpet when I did my box because there is about 1" of padding and the carpet with thecarpet in place. it make things harder. Have you tried to take a piece of MDF and cut it into a ring, then shape it like a pie slice so the sub angles towards the back? so in reality you wouldn't have any height change in the back and the sub would be raised in the front. it's tough to make a piece like that unless you have the proper tools because it's thin as heck towards the end. That would tilt the sub so the magnet would clear the hump without the basket hitting the fiberglass wall at the same time. I drew up a wuick picture so you understood.
2nd, I had 2-10" JLw3v3s and replaced them with the Inifinty Perfects. The Infinity's blow the JL's away! Now, the w6 and w7 versions are a different story but then your going to run into the same depth clearance issues.
3rd, Using MDF to raise the seats is probably the best bet since the bolts that hold down the seats are like 2" long they ca be re-used. Now to the other thing, I mentioned this in a previous post. The back of the seats slides into a u-bar. The Jaw that goes in there moves up and down as you raise and lower the seat. There's only so much room before the Jaws will slide up and over those u-bars. I think you'll have a lot of trouble with that if you raise the seat too high. .75" is probably the most you can go. i would put the seat in place and see how much room you have to work with. You could always get a fabricator to weld longer jaws on there??
Like I said before, My box goes all the way to the back wall. Well 1" away. It is 2.5" high from the back floor. My seats are about 1/4-1/2" away from rubbing when I fold them down.
Type R's are a good sub. You have to pay attn to how big the magnet is width wise. That's another reason I removed the carpet when I did my box because there is about 1" of padding and the carpet with thecarpet in place. it make things harder. Have you tried to take a piece of MDF and cut it into a ring, then shape it like a pie slice so the sub angles towards the back? so in reality you wouldn't have any height change in the back and the sub would be raised in the front. it's tough to make a piece like that unless you have the proper tools because it's thin as heck towards the end. That would tilt the sub so the magnet would clear the hump without the basket hitting the fiberglass wall at the same time. I drew up a wuick picture so you understood.
Last edited by dirtydog; 11-22-2008 at 11:47 AM.
#26
well my 12's were about 1" away from fitting. The magnet hits the the curve of the enclosure like I expected but i'm thinking the type r 10's would fit perfect becuase there about an inch shorter with a smaller magnet. My other idea was getting 2 kicker 8" L7 square subs that are only 4" deep rather than my subs right now that are almost 8". My whole box sits 3" high which it barelly fits with the seats down in the back but I still want some room for the subs to move.
#27
How is it 3" in the back? You have what looks like 1.5-1.75" framework and another 3/4" for the MDF. That makes 2.25-2.5" high. With my carpet fully removed, the measurements to the bottom of the seat in the back was 2.6". There's no way 3" will fit back there. The clearance for the front was around 3.5"
The L7 solbarics would def have some serious punch and would fit with ease. The 10's will act like 12's because of the added airspace of the woofer. Great sub as I was looking towards them, however I already had the Perfects that I took out of my mustang.
The L7 solbarics would def have some serious punch and would fit with ease. The 10's will act like 12's because of the added airspace of the woofer. Great sub as I was looking towards them, however I already had the Perfects that I took out of my mustang.
#28
Well i was just guestamating, but the frame is 1 1/5" the mdf is 3/4 " and there is fiberglass that adds about 1/4". I haven't yet put the box in with the mdf becuase it's not all together yet. Im thinking i might just get the alpine type r10's just too keep my stereo all in sink since Im getting type r components and I got type s coaxials in the back. Hopefully tomarrow i'll be able to get the box done then all I have to do is order new subs.
#29
Why are you mixing Type R and Typer s??? Higher quality mixed with lower quality??? Getting a different manufacture for the sub is perfectly fine, but mixing your highs will sound weird. I bought some nice Polk Audio speakers from Circuit City. They have a buy one get 2nd half off. Just go to Circuitcity.com. Crutchfield is also running the sale, but their prices are usually ridiculous. I just bought 6x9 3wat Coaxials and 2 way 6.5 coaxials. I didn't wanna dick with the separate tweeters and crossovers. My speakers sound friggin awesome. Clean crisp highs!
With those measurements you'll have more than enough room to drop the box in with subs no problem. My subs are about 1" away from the seat on the back part. When you sit on the seat, it doesn't cave in as much as you would think. The bottom skin on the seat hangs down much further than the actual foam part itself. When you fold down the seat you can push up the bottom part a good 2". My subs sound great, better than anticipated since their firing right into the bottom of the seat. I think your being to paranoid about fitment. You will not need to worry about raising your seat al all!
With those measurements you'll have more than enough room to drop the box in with subs no problem. My subs are about 1" away from the seat on the back part. When you sit on the seat, it doesn't cave in as much as you would think. The bottom skin on the seat hangs down much further than the actual foam part itself. When you fold down the seat you can push up the bottom part a good 2". My subs sound great, better than anticipated since their firing right into the bottom of the seat. I think your being to paranoid about fitment. You will not need to worry about raising your seat al all!
#30
As long as the speakers are the same brand it doesn't matter. Basically they don't sell the 5 1/4" type r's anymore so I bought the s. The rear speakers are just for rear fill for the rear passengers, technically you shouldn't even put in rear speakers becuase it messes up your sound stage if you were to get technical. If you live in california try a place called onlinecarstereo.com, it's all wholesale prices and its all brand new stuff, I've ordered from them multiple times.