don't know if you said anything, but do you know what your box is tuned at or what it has db at? i'm running a jl audio w7 13 comp in a 6cube box with a jl audio 1000/1 amp, powered by two kineticks amg batteries with 0 gauge power and ground. It is tuned at 32 hz and db at 158db.
_______________
04 quad cab hemi, lowered 3/5, 285/50R20 on custom painted 07 ram 20s, bully dog programmer, 4pc cold air intake, true dual into a flow master super 44 with true dual cut outs all dumped under bed, 5% tint, jl w7 13, jl 1000/1, eclipse head unit 5v pre out, tailgate spoiler, tinted tail lights, custom painted headlights, 10k hids headlight and fog, hella 500.

 

last month I blew one of my subs, was just cruzin, not loud or anything and then POP. I blew a voice coil. But I have no idea what it is tuned for, basically I just made the biggest box I could with the space I had. I cant really take dimensions because the box is so curvy at the bottom. I haven't hooked it up to a term lab or anything. Im just going for SQ rather than SPL. bulldog... do you have a picture of your setup. I used to have 2 12" type R's in a ported box that I had to take out the back seat for, but now im more for practicality.

 

I want to see Cross-over mounting pics and I think I'm going to go with an MDF custom mounting spacer so it gives it more of a DIY look if I ever show anyone.

Have you thought about or already done Dynamat or similar to the door panels ? if so, any pics of that and do you just apply it directly to the white steel metal panel or ? ? I've seen the asphalt dampener you've used on the back where the amps were mounted. Also, stock, my doors have a 'fluffy' white plastic cover that appears to be adhered by black beads of goop. I take it that's the stock version of sound dampener ?

Thanks for the vote of confidence on the PDX-4.100. Much cheaper to run that than what I was looking at for 2-2channel amps which would need more wiring, etc.

 

My whole truck is deadened with Fat Mat, it is cheaper than Dynamat about $120 for 100sq ft. I did my back wall and all doors, on the doors, take the weather sheet off which is the white plastic, apply the deadener to the sheet metal and inside the door and the exterior sheet metal. As for the cross-overs, Im just going to put them in the door where they can fit easily. I opened a can of worms because now I am going to build a amp rack for the back wall so my amps aren't bolt directly to sheet metal. I am going to use 3/4 mdf and make a huge wall, then carpet it so the sound deadener isn't visible. This will even add more deadener to the back wall since the mdf blocks sound as well. but my amp for the speakers is a kicker 700.5 which is 70w rms to each channel at 4ohms. I wanted alpine but hey I got it brand new for Free. For my subs they are 2 alpine mrp-m500. They arnt the best but for a budget build they are perfect.

 

no i never pulled them. the type-r tweets swivel so i can aim them pretty much any direction i please. i really like where i have them the highs hit your ears just right. i think the type-x tweets sre smaller so they may fit. with the flashing im am looking at about 2.5 inches for the total diameter

 

wow my tweets just need a 1 3/4" hole, I might just mount them the same as yours so I dont have to run two long wires, I can just mount the cross over in the door then a single wire to the tweeter. However did your cross-over have two inputs one for the woofer and another for the tweeter. I gues mine can be bi-amped where one amp is for the tweeter and another amp for the woofer. I only have one amp so I don't know if i can bridge them or if I have to run a wire from positive postive and negative negative.

 

no i just had one input 2 outs. google it there should be a diagram

 

well I just re did my back wall. It looks amazing.

 

BEFORE!!!!

 

AFTER!!!!!!