What kit did you use? Can you give part number for it and anything else you had to add/replace? May have to send mine back! Yours sounds much better. I like bolting as opposed to just sitting it in.

 

Well I have seen the bolt on kind for 4WD, and the spacer kind for 2WD. Maybe that is the difference.

 

OH YEAH!! Thats right. In my research of leveling using spacers, I saw 2 two kinds and that matches what you posted. The 4WD ones (that I saw anyway) were all bolt ons and the 2WD were "placed."

Thanks.
Torqued!!

 

Ive got a 1 1/2" leveling kit from daystar. It was 40 dollars and 60 shipped. Pretty nice for the money but the front still sags quite a bit.

 

I don't know if it still holds true, but with the '02-'05 torsion bar front end 4x4's, I found when I measured the couple of buddies trucks I did T-Bar cranks on, that it's about 2.25" to sit perfectly level...

 

Im looking at doing the same exact thing to my 2500. definitely let me know how it goes. although, i looked into the shocks, according to summit they are for 4WD, will they still fit the 2WD 2500?

 

i have a similar kit as pictured, may even be the exact same... either way it looks justlike that.. its a 2" and have it sitting in my truck waiting to be put on..

im not sure weather im going to mess with it or just take it somewhere.. i dont really want to pay 150+ to have it installed since that right there is a set of LED tails.. i dunno yet.. we'll see

 

I just found the Daystar 1.5" kit on SuspensionConnection.com for $39.95 and they have a 10% coupon code which makes it $35. Add about $10 shipping for about $45 total for the spacers. Not too shabby.......

 

OK. Daystar 2.5" kit installed. Baiscally it breaks down like this:

First make sure you have the proper jack (stock probably wouldn't work and if so there is no way you want that POS doing this work. Besides you will need the stock jack for another task so get a real jack). I used a 3 ton pump jack from Napa. Make damn sure you have properly rated jack stands as you will be releasing the truck's full weight on them. CHALK THE BACK TIRES.

You will need a coil tensioner (I got the Powerbuilt 648603 from Advanced Auto...rented $50)

Boiled down... you will remove 5 nuts (not counting the lug nuts. 3 nuts belong to the shock). This project isnt very hard to do.

Jack it up and get it on the stands
remove wheel
unbolt swaybar
remove shock by unbolting from top coil socket and lower control arm

loosen the nut that holds the spindle to the upper contol arm and ball joint and bring the nut flush with the bolt. Take a sledge and hit the nut with a couple of good swings upwards. This should break the spindle away from the upper control arm. Leave the nut on.

Place the coil tensioner through the middle of the coil (where the shock was) placing the highest upper arm towards the engine. Tighten well. I basically tightened and watch the upper coil socket fall slowly. This means you are compressing the spring enough to remove the body weight. The tighter you clamp the coil the better chance you will have to slip the spacer in.

Now is the time to be very careful.

Jack the truck up high enough to be off the stands. and move the stand to the side...but keep it close.

Place the stock jack from your tuck under the lower control arm. Finish removing the nut that holds the spindle to the upper control arm. When you do this, the brake cylinder will be free to fall...thats why you are using the jack on the lower control arm. Once you have a buddy, SLOWLY lower the stock jack under the lower control arm and the brake cylinder will begin to fall as the lower control arm lowers. AS YOU DO THIS the coil will begin to come out of the upper coil socket. GO SLOW and make sure you are confident that the coil tensioner will not give. I did not have to remove the coil completely. I just let the brake cylinder fall slowly (watch the tension on the brake lines) until there was enough room to remove the exisiting boot in the upper coil socket and place the spacer in. The spacer wont fit perfectly but it has a groove that the the top of coil will fit in. The hardest part about this step is getting the new spacer in over the coil tensioner bolt. You'll see what I mean.

Once you have the spacer in, jack the brake cylinder back up using the stock jack. As you jack it back up the coil will begin to fit into the spacer better.
Attach the spidle back to the upper control arm ( you will need a buddy cause now there is an extra 2.5" of poly and one of you will have to lift that brake cylinder up hard to get that nut back on).

Get the truck back on the stands.

Release the coil tensioner

Bolt the sway bar back on

Bolt in the shocks. I used the stock shocks because they sent me the wrong shocks with my spacer kit. There was plenty of travel left in the stock shock and I think it will be fine. So, technically, I think you can use stock shocks.

Put the wheels back on

Sit in the truck and freak out cause it is like driving a different truck (In a good way)

They say get an alignment but mine feels fine. If it pulls I will get it fixed.

OK...YOU MUST READ AND FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS THAT COME WITH YOUR SPACERS. THIS IS JUST A RECAP OF HOW IT HAPPENED FOR ME.

It was very easy for me. I was surprised. But that doesnt mean you can, even for a minute, not think things through and be safe. When faced with safety and postponing your project...ALWAYS PICK SAFETY. Its hard to drive a truck without hands...or a head.

 

I have an 08 Ram 1500 quad cab 2WD and I am trying to find a 2-2.5" leveling kit to fit this truck. I see lots listed for the 4WD but the only 2WD I have found says it will fit a mega cab. Will this still work on my truck if I replace the shocks and put a steel block in the back? I am trying to fit 33" tires and also have a nice level truck. any ideas???