Old story, 2 yrs back left low beam went out, so wired rite low to left low. This year rite quit resulting in no low beams so went to the bosch relay fix. Costs about $15 as opposed to replacing $900 computer.
FANTASTIC RESULTS, wired to the ignition controlled cigarette lighter(or for the PC folks, "power port") so lights come on every time key is turned on. I always wanted daytime running lights and have them now. Another big plus is it shoots 13.5 volts to the low beams and they are brighter where this truck's original lights were weak. Yet another plus is that the low beams and high beams can be on at the same time which makes them much better for night driving. Should have done this years ago, tried Silver Stars and other fixes for dim lights with mediocre results. Using the relay is cheaper than the price of one Silver Star bulb.
BTW: Lights still remain on for 30 seconds after ignition is turned off. Last note, also did this years back to my Ramcharger and 91 Z-28 with similar results.

 

everyone on here should file a complaint with transport canada about your tpim issues like i did lets do something about this to get it recalled as im sure you all know i have the same issues with my 2007 dodge ram 1500 4x4 5.7 hemi

 

This is a typical problem. The Dodge ECU controls voltages to all circuits in the TIPM. You should take your truck to the dealer and have them flash the ECU. If you are using a tuner, check with the tuner manufacturer to see if they have a solution.

Hope that helps, it worked for me.

 

I also own a 2007 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 5.7 love my truck I am curious to know why nobody has filed a complaint with Transport Canada about the headlight issues on the 2007 Dodge Rams I also have this issue where are my passenger side headlight does not work that started back in 2013 and as recent my driver side high beam and daytime running light no longer works and like everybody else checked all the obvious stuff checked wiring harnesses changed headlights plugs tried to do a reset on the computer with the IOD fuse and still got nothing after fighting with Dodge on numerous occasions one of their employees told me to file a complaint with Transport Canada so I did but it appears that I was the only person that has filed a complaint so come on people we want this fixed we need to file a complaint with the government thanks for your time and thanks for reading

 

I've recently acquired a 2006 2500 Mega Cab 5.9L and the previous owner, installed LED fogs, and headlights with resistors, but clearly somethings a bit messed up. Been reading everything that I can find and a lot of my issues echo whats already been posted by many, MANY others.

In my own mind, I started thinking, why can't you just remove the headlight function from the TIPM entirely and wire it differently to save yourself the headache of replacing a TIPM, an upon researching if anyone had done that previously, i came across this product.

https://www.aspireautoaccessories.com/control-freak

Does ANYONE have experience with this product, and can you tell me if it has worked for you? I'd like to just solve this problem without having to deal with Dodge dealerships at all because Im well aware most Stealerships are criminal.

 

[QUOTE=Last Dodge Ever;2496669]As I mentioned in this string about a year ago I had this problem and Dodge told me the TIPM was bad after only 30K miles in 3.5 years and I'd have to pay to replace it for $900, because, "it is out of warranty".

I realize nothing lasts forever, things wear out, things break.... A month ago the same damn thing happens again: no drivers side low beam. I tried new and swapping bulbs no dice. It was hard not to have a coniption fit when I went back to the dealer. This time they said it was a bad headlight socket and it took them 1 week to get a new one and solder it in for about $200.

I'll bet you anything the socket was bad initially and it kicked off the TIPM and resulted in Dodge telling me the TIPM was bad costing me an uneeded TIPM charge of $900! What a load of C R A P.

I found lots of good input on here from JEEPFIXITMAN and other blogs although I am not a mechanic and this problem has very little that can be rectified by anyone except Dodge.

The Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) is in charge of lighting the bulbs when you turn on the headlamp switch. If you go to the underside of the TIPM you will find several connectors. You are looking for the C5 connector and the left low beam wire which is white/dark blue. With a jumper wire, power up the headlamp ckt and see if it comes on full intensity. If so you have a TIPM issue, if not you have corrosion in the wire to the lamp.



Unfortunately the TIPM is self contained and is not serviceable Once it is replaced it has to be initialized to the vehicle as well. This requires a scan tool that is found at a dealership. Sorry for the bad news.

So the TIPM is serviceable there is a company that you send them in and for like 140 bucks they rebuild them and ship them back.
What happens is that on the green circuit board when wiring it Dodge went from a thicker gauge wire to a smaller gauge to squeeze by other circuits then back to the larger gauge and either this part burns out or gets really corroded. I have seen people that are good at soldering put a jumper wire directly on the circuit board and put it back together with total success. However I am not brave enough or patient enough to soder and reconnect the break. By the way this is the reason the FCM detects voltage drop and disables the circuit. Also the bottom of the TIPM is constantly getting soaked with every puddle due to the location So I decided to just wire the headlights directly to the battery with a switch. I am not sure exactly what I am getting myself into all I know is I have literally hundreds of hours researching this issue and the wires under the TIPM are getting screwed up from so much probing.
So I got 14 gauge wired to 2 relays one for the high beams and one for the low beams I put a 30 amp inline fuse in each relay and 2 toggle switches on the dash. And I got new heavy duty light sockets I am still building the harness and making sure everything is water tight. As I am looking at my engine compartment and the main harness is laying on the rear part of the motor, actually resting on the motor. Is this another genius design by dodge or did my harness actually fall and get melted to to motor? It’s a 2004 ram 2500 with the 5.7 Hemi I have looked at a few other rams but they weren’t the Hemi engine and the harness was on the firewall up higher away from the heat. So IDK!!!
I will let you guys know how the harness I am making for the headlights turns out and if my lights are brighter or not.
I love my Truck and all but the no headlights is bull****! Dodge **** the bed on this one!

 

[QUOTE=FirePrincess78;3510638]Thank you for this FirePrincess78.

What a cruel coincidence receiving another reply on this thread after 12 years, 4 months, 23 days - the problem still persists and Dodge, and Dealerships still ignore it today

I would like to thank every contributor to this thread since 2008, I wish we all could have discovered a reasonable, affordable, plug & play remedy.

The other weird coincidence is that just this week, after completely giving up on trying to fix or maintain ANYTHING (since 2016), on this 2006 new vehicle purchase, I took the truck with 76,000 miles back to the dealership where I purchased it to address several recalls, and to re examine new and ongoing issues: Low beam headlight still not working after 2nd TIPM replacement and a "reboot", tachometer not working, intermittant speedometer function/malfunction, wipers that turn on and off at random or do not respond at all, battery drains to DEAD after being parked for 3+ days. I got tired of opening the hood and disconnecting the battery every Friday night so it would start on Mondays.

TIPM. $1479.I am on my 2nd TIPM with this vehicle. They were $900 before. When the 2nd one acted up, they were miraculously able to “reboot it”.

Instrument cluster. $649.35

Oil pan gasket. $1226.94

Coolant flush & replace. $245.01

Front Brakes. $1666.60

Hood shock. $242.10
It has been a while since I tried to research or fix this, but even the aftermarket TIPM repair/refurbish guys say, what they can do may or likely will not resolve any of these issues. So why by another now selling for $1500?

The dealership texted me and asked for authorization to perform $6000! in repair and maintenance! The service representative with 20+ years experience said there has never been a TIPM recall, despite it being a known issue, and said that the technician could not find the source of ANY of the reported problems, (ANY!), and reccommended replacement of everything I reported in an attempt to solve the problems. Sure, not every problem I listed was electrical in nature, but who says with a straight face that a front brake job will cost $1700. Blatant gouging and profiteering at it's finest. I now firmly believe that if there is a low cost repair or replacement available, the Dealership does not want you to know about it. I wonder what it is they intend to do with my vehicle if I accept one of their trade in offers? Sell it to some other unsuspecting victim? I could only ever sell this thing that I drive 4 miles a day by telling prospective owners it has issues that have been fixed over and over again for 12+ years.

One would think - Dodge would be more proactive w/ lemons , if only for the fact that once someone is off of a brand , they stay off. Perhaps their sales volume is such that they can afford to lose customers? It sucks anyways. Dodge, Chrysler, Jeep, whoever they are do not give a rat's *** about major malfunctions, especially at the local dealership level. One would think corporate wants their local franchises to eat it and solve problems before it escalates. As a Dodge owner I was horrified after googling the issue to found thousands experiencing the same thig 12+ years ago. The local dealership folks get very adversarial when you ask them why I have had to buy a $1000 part three times on a vehicle I special I ordered from them, just to keep one low beam headlight working. I just can't bear to think about it anymore. It suck when you realize you fell for something and got lied to and robbed. One last letter to Corporate might be just another waste of time. But yeah, never this brand ever again.

 

jump the wires from the passenger side to the driversside. That's what finally worked for me. The 2 guys above are right. It's the fcm or the tipm and since i didnt want to deal with the dealership or with having the tipm flashed i just jumoed the wires together and it's working. Yes the design is majorly flawed. But there are a few fixes for it and as I was researching i found a Company that if you send your tipm to them they refurb it for wS cheaper then new. Message me if you want more details.

 

So i`m working on the headlight circuitry on a 2006 dodge ram cummins 5.9 litre

I`m using the load pro test leads with a multi meter and did voltage drop testing on the low and high beam circuits at the connector, With the stock switch low I would test both high and low at the connector and vice versa with the high beam. I had the black meter lead on the battery ground and the red lead was in the connector for testing.

So low beam drivers side i was getting 12 volts, load the circuit i would drop to 0 volts i would put it on the high beam and get 1.7 volts, then i would switch to the high beam setting on the switch and re test the same side. so on high beams i would get 12 volts, load the circuit and drop less than a half volt, put the lead onto the low beam and would get 12 and drop volts. so now i moved onto the passenger side with the switch in the low beam side. i would see 12 volts at the low beam at the connector, load the circuit and drop all the volts, move the lead to the high beam and again see 12 volts and drop them all. would flip the switch to high beam and re test. the high beam has 12 volts, load the circuit and would drop less than half a volt, put the lead on the low beam and get 12 volts load the circuit would drop to zero.

I was thinking the tipm is faulty, so I did one last check. I removed the positive battery cables and found the wires from the tipm that go to the head lights. I did a continuity test first to make sure what wires were what, then i did a resistance check on the wires. So here goes, on the low beam passenger side I got 1.5 ohms of resistance and on the high beam drivers side I got 6.6 ohms of resistance, these two are on the same blue connector into the back of the tipm. Next I tested the low beam drivers side and got 1.2 ohms and on the high beam passenger side i got 1.4 ohms. this is a black connector on the back of the tipm that these two wires are connected to.

So my thoughts are something inside the tipm has failed and/or crossed on the circuit board.

I also removed the connector that attaches to the low beam high beam column switch, figuring I should have zero volts at the headlight connector, and found I still have 12 volts, I also had two fuses for the park lamps that were blown and still had power at the headlight connector. Replaced those and still no change.

I should add after going through the forum and state why I`m sharing my diagnosis, I was told by the customer that they had a snowplow attachment installed that had a light on either side attached to the frame of the unit and only had the passenger side light working, I don`t know if the drivers side ever worked. The customer said the high beams always worked with the snowplow. It has since been removed and wanted to see why the low beams didn't work. The harness has been removed and has caused no issues to the wiring or my testing procedures.