I have a 2005 3/4 ton Ram Diesel, 57,000 miles and this PU has not pulled anything but itself with the execption of a trailer for about 500 miles and the clutch is slipping or somethings wrong under there. I noticed that I started to pass someone and put my foot into it and the RPM's went up about 500 RPM's and the speedometer went nowhere. What the ____ is going on here, 57,000 miles. thanks for taking a look here.

 

Sounds like the clutch is slipping. You might get some more information over on the Cummins section.

 

check your trans fluid, make sure you arent low.

 

You do have a manual, right?

If so, sounds like a little slippage. Is it more pronounced in higher gears, when the motor has to fight harder against the gearing? Does it slip in 5th or 6th where it might not in 3rd?

Also, do you treat the clutch properly? No pedal riding...slippy launches...powershifting...etc?

 

Yes it is a manual transmission and I shift it like the 18 wheelers I drive which it no dough has enough tork to get going without any extra throttle. Also the only gear I have noticed the slippage in is high gear, but I would assume if it is slipping it would be doing it in all the gears giving the right situation. I would also assume I have a week pressure plate which could be a defect in the material or more likely an engineering design. Gov bailout needed here, we want to keep them producing these quality products.

 

Most of the cutch wear comes from take offs and when you use the clutch to slow down<<no-no. Every manual car I have been in, the driver shifts from 3rd to 2nd for a light or a stop and just realeases the clutch. Never even bumps the gas to raise the rpms to match the engine to the tranny speed. That wears the clutch out pretty fast.

Anyways, Have you looked to make sure you have no fluids leaking? A little fluid or grease can cause some annoyances and eventually put hot spots on your flywheel and then you'll experience chatter.

Also, your tranny isn't the same as the 18wheelers. Big rigs have no syncros in the trannies like our little trucks have.With Rigs, the clutch must be pressed to pull out of gear and released, and then pressed in again to put into the next gear and then fully released. Double clutching isn't speed shifting like everyone thinks. When I drive, I use the clutch to take off and that's it. I use the rpms as a guide to shift into the next gear and do it all without ever using the clutch. Saves alot of useless footwork. That will keep the clutch brand new, never wear it out.
If you do that to your pick-up truck, you are putting heavy wear on all of your clutch components for no good reason.

 

It was my understanding that most big rig drivers only use the clutch to get moving; shifts are clutchless. Float-shifting a Ram will ruin the synchonizers, as even when you think you've "floated" the next gear, the synchro still took up a small RPM difference, but with the momentum of the entire engine rotating assembly still attached. I don't see how that behavior would damage the clutch though.

The reason that slip shows up in a high gear is because you typically put more right foot into it when trying to accelerate in high gear. The engine has less advantage against the intertia of the truck, and the entire drivetrain is bearing more torque. Your intuition is right though; once you build enough torque you should see slip in any gear. You could probably test this by applying the brakes and gas at the same time in 2nd or 3rd. If the truck revs without accelerating, the clutch isn't holding.

 

Looks like around $700.00 labor and $500.00 parts from the stealer. I think I will get a few other prices. My big question is what cluch and preasure plate and from whom. I would like to get one, one or two steps above the OEM one. Any ideas here sure would be welcome. regards Skip R

 

I hav always went Centerforce Dual friction in my sports cars and they were so very smooth. Much smoother than stock with little pedal effort and if you wanted it to grab, it's instant! No slipping at all. Never had any issue's. They ran me about $350 plus throw-out bearing ran another $30.

$500 from the dealer? They better put down that crack pipe. You can get a Centerforce for that price.

 

If you are a do-it-yourselfer the I would just reccomend going to advanced or orielys and ordering as far above their cheapest one as you want to pay and replace it your self. a key when or if you do it yourself...don't try to unbolt the bellhousing from the block first instead unbolt the trany from the bellhousing first and drop it the do the bellhousing. it will save you a lot of hassel when takeing it down and aligning it back up. if you decide to take it to someone to do it for you make sure you tell them that you want the old friction disc and press plate. the only reason for this is to make sure that they replace it...