OK, here is my issue now. Had to change my plugs and oil today so I got the resistors and figured I'd give it a shot. Happened to be looking through the service manual to find the gap for my plugs and came across the IAT. Problem is that it lists the IAT for an 05 4.7 as being in the Intake Manifold, and I'm 99.999999%positive the sensor I removed from the stock intake tube and put in my CA intake tube is the IAT sensor.

AM I RIGHT?????????????

Also, Ram Crazy, what were you able to read your actual intake temp with?

And last but not least, just some info, went from Bosch +2 plugs to NGK IX's, and the difference is night and day. Was not happy with the bosch plugs from the get go, but when I put the NGK's in, I noticed a smoother (and slightly lower) idle, and it seems to have slightly better response. Great plugs so far.

 

One other thing too. You said the wire you soldered the resistor into is bluw/a red stripe. I have a solid blue wire and a blue w/green wire. I googled IAT and found a guy who said it doesn't matter which one you use. Is that true or should I wait for some way to read my IAT and snip the wires and see what I get??

 

And last but not least, I've heard a few different things on different sites. Here we go:
1. Some people are saying that it will only work for a short period of time because
your PCM will relearn the correct AFR and trim the fuel back, and that the only
way to stop this is to reset your PCM by disconnecting the battery or pulling a
fuse. True or not???
2. Some people are saying they use a 1/2 watt 4.7 or 5.6k ohm resistor and its
dropping the IAT 18 degrees farenheit. The R-R-R-Gold ones you said you used
are 1/4 watt 2.2k ohm resistance, and you are claiming more of a temp drop. I
think it is just my electrical illiteracy kicking in, but why is less resistance from a
smaller resistor resulting in a Lower IAT??? I just don't understand it.
3. I also see a lot of people saying that there is only a difference at WOT. Is this
Ture also??

 

ORTeach, here a lot of people saying that the HP gain due to the increased fuel wears off after about 200 miles because the PCM relearns its air fuel ratio from the o2 sensors. Did you notice a drop off after a while with the power wire?

 

The IAT is on the back of the air box that was on there from the factory....it's on the pass side..... Right about where the squish tube goes on..... Go look at my picture in my IAT post.

I use an Actron 9180 OBDII Scanner most of the time...... My brother works for Dodge and I can also use the Chrysler DRB when I need to but the Actron works great and displays the same infor as the DRB does.

Ok let me try this again.........

There are two advantages to the IAT mod for people in warm climates.... either with the power wire or just adding a resistor.....

1. The lower IAT temp will initially add fuel......
2. The lower IAT temp advances the timing.......

On the PCM "relearning" the fuel trim...... That is Partially true.......

After a short time the PCM will realize (from the upstream O2 sensor) that the oxygen content did not get denser so it will pull the fuel back, but not as far as it originally was w/o the mod..... it does keep it up a little...

The biggest advantage to the mod is the timing it adds... It will advance the timing based on the lower temp and as long as it senses no knock from the knock sensor it keeps the timing advanced.....

I keep my scanner on my truck everyday and I can see my Long term fuel trim in real time..... It has remained the same (which is .09 gain) in fuel since I added the resistor. It has not (as of today) relearned or gone back to the previous LTFT setting of -1.70 which is where it was before the mod.

The PCM uses info it is getting to make its adjustments..... As long as the resistor/power wire is in there and it keeps getting the lower IAT reading it has no way of knowing it has incorrect IAT input so it keeps the timing slightly advanced.

another words if you were driving the truck stock (No IAT Mod) in an area where it's 20 30, or even 40 degrees outside the PCM is going to richen the mixture and advance the timing for those lower temps..... because that is the temp it is seeing.....and it knows the air should be denser at those lower temps.

Here in Florida where it is regularly 80, 90 even 100 in the summer the mod lowers the temp and tricks the computer into thinking it is much cooler outside so it richens the mixture and advances the timing....

The PCM is only going to adjust the fuel trim to a certain extent anyway to keep the emissions the lowest it can....

it's a petty simple system.....

The PCM can only go by what it is being told by each sensor.... if the IAT is telling it, it is 50 outside (and the IAT temp fluctuates indicating the sensor is working) it advances the timing and makes the mixture richer for that temp. The same goes for an IAT of 90 degrees...it's going to lean out the fuel trim and pull timing out because the air isn't as dense at 90 degrees...

This mod wouldn't really do much for somebody who lives in a cold climate already.....but here is makes a noticeable difference, at least it did on my truck.....
It's much more responsive now and it pulls allot harder at all mid-range rpm levels.

Our PCM's also monitor each sensor to verify they are working..... That's why we cant just eliminate some of our sensors like we could do a few years ago... I'll use the o2 for example... Back in 2000 I put an o2 Simulator on my Ram to hide the higher fuel flow and emissions from all the mods on that truck... (Cams, Supercharger, huge throttle body, larger injectors ect.)
The PCM kept tripping a P0158, o2 sensor voltage high..... before the simulator was installed because all the mods really boosted fuel and emissions above what the factory wanted. The o2 sim took the place of the downstream o2 and tricked the PCM into thinking it had great exhaust emissions. Thus no more light....

Our newer trucks are more advanced as now they actually look to make sure sensor values change so it knows they are working.
For example, If the PCM see's no change in the output voltage from the o2 sensor (or a number of other sensors) over a period of time, it assumes the sensor is not functioning and will trip the check engine light for XXX sensor No activity detected, or low or no voltage. These things are getting smarter and smarter every year and each year we gotta find new ways to get around it to have fun with our vehicles.

I hope this helps....

 

Thanks for the explanation man. I'm going to try it your way, but I think I'll wait till the warmer weather to see the gains for myself (It has been in the teens and 20's for the last two weeks!!). I'll let everyone know.

 

Matty,

The wiring colors probably differ per model year....

The stripe wire is usually the signal wire.

Go buy a Haynes manual and the wiring diagram will be in the back and should give you the colors....

I looked and don't have anything on the 04 or 05 Ram...... I guess I skipped those years when I bought my trucks lol.....

Should be able to google 05 Dodge Ram IAT circuit and get something......

Let me know and I'll see what I can come up with.

Jess

 

Already have a haynes manual and according to it, the IAT is threaded into the intake manifold on an '05. I am 99.9% sure the sensor I removed from the intake tube and stuck in the hole in my CAI intake tube is the IAT.

The Haynes manual also says that the IAT wires are brown and brown w/purple stripe.

I don't get those guys???

I'm going to try it by cutting the blue w/green wire and see where it gets me. Worst I really have to do is splice the factory wire back together and try the other one.

Thanks for the info though man.

 

Another quick question too....

Does your Cortex show IAT?? Just curious cause I plan on buying one, and if I can see what the IAT is and try different resistors to adjust it. I think it would be helpful to me.

 

Ok I think your confusing your "Airbox" with the intake manifold...

The Intake Manifold is BELOW the throttle body, The Airbox is above and in front of the throttle body.
The "Airbox" sits on top of your engine....at least it did when it was new..... The Airbox is the black box that says 4.7 liter Magnum on it...

I can't see Chrysler mounting the IAT in the actual intake manifold. It would always read very high in that location...

I WOULD SUGGEST YOU DO NOT JUST CUT WIRES until you know exactly what your cutting... Your just asking for electrical problems down the road doing stuff like that.

If you do not have a scanner or access to a scanner to read your pids and get the IAT temp then I recommend you just buy the power wire...

Yes the Cortex displays the IAT temp. You can only have 4 PIDS display at one time on the Cortex so you'll have to go into the menu and select it as one of the PIDS to monitor.