Proper procedure to fill cooling system?
#1
#3
If you drained everything out, you may have to remove the upper radiator hose and pour through there. if the water pump has an air pocket, it won't push any fluids. Now, if your getting circulation but your level is going up/down drastically, open up the resevoir cap and get the engine warm. That will remove any large air pockets.
#4
That's how I filled through rad cap and let the engine warm. When the t-stat opened I closed the rad cap and topped off reservoir.
I am really stumped by this erratic problem. Just topped of coolant, turned heater off and it wouldn't get up to full temp. Only about 196 according to the scanner reading.
I am really stumped by this erratic problem. Just topped of coolant, turned heater off and it wouldn't get up to full temp. Only about 196 according to the scanner reading.
#5
That's how I filled through rad cap and let the engine warm. When the t-stat opened I closed the rad cap and topped off reservoir.
I am really stumped by this erratic problem. Just topped of coolant, turned heater off and it wouldn't get up to full temp. Only about 196 according to the scanner reading.
I am really stumped by this erratic problem. Just topped of coolant, turned heater off and it wouldn't get up to full temp. Only about 196 according to the scanner reading.
You can't close the radiator cap until the engine is fully warm and circulating. The circulating moves the air bubble out of the cap. With your truck cold, remove the radiator cap until it gets fully warm (20-30 minutes at idle). Top off as level drops. Once warm, shut your engine down and let fully cool. If your coolant tank is near empty, then put the cap back on the radiator before the engine cools because it will push fluid out of the radiator and into the expansion tank. I would leave the cap off the expansion tank the entire time. it's really simple.
Just make sure you have coolant in the upper radiator hose. if not, you'll have to unhook it and pour coolant into the hose while it's removed and then re-attach.
#6
Put the truck at an incline nose up (makes radiator highest point,helps air escape)...I use a steep driveway. Pour coolant through the radiator cap until it's full. Once the truck warms up the stat will pop and suck the coolant down...keep adding coolant with the cap off. Put some coolant in the overflow and when most of the air is out put the rad cap back on...let the pressure build and see if it's sucking from the overflow. Take her for a spin and then recheck...check the overflow a few days later too. Hopefully it's not like my g/f's old POS cavalier that was a PITA to bleed...if it is then repeat several times.
#7
Coolant is not pushed into the recovery tank when the engine cools. That's the purpose of the tank -- to take the overflow from the radiator. The recovery tank is not "in the loop", it's a dead end. If enough fluid collects there, it goes onto the ground, not back to the engine. As the motor cools, it pulls from the tank, not pushing toward it.
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#8
Coolant is not pushed into the recovery tank when the engine cools. That's the purpose of the tank -- to take the overflow from the radiator. The recovery tank is not "in the loop", it's a dead end. If enough fluid collects there, it goes onto the ground, not back to the engine. As the motor cools, it pulls from the tank, not pushing toward it.
When you have air bubbles, yes it does. But when no air bubbles are present, you are correct
#9
Coolant is not pushed into the recovery tank when the engine cools. That's the purpose of the tank -- to take the overflow from the radiator. The recovery tank is not "in the loop", it's a dead end. If enough fluid collects there, it goes onto the ground, not back to the engine. As the motor cools, it pulls from the tank, not pushing toward it.
#10