Maybe it's just me, but I like to get a second opinion.

All of these manufacturers are getting a bit out of controll on the towing specs for a half ton pickup. Ford claims 10k+, Dodge is over 8k, and Chevy, well, who cares.

I dont care, personally, what a manufacturer claims. If you yank 8 or 9 thousand pounds (yes I know GVR and GVWR) behind a half ton pickup you are due for failure, or disaster, or worse.

What they fail to state is all of the other factors.... The total weight of the vehicle reduces towing capacity, add 4wd and towing cap. is down, if you tow anything over 2,000 pounds its recmmended that trailer brakes are installed, how many people yanking around a "toyhauler" know how to adjust a brake controller? Throw your old lady and three and a half kids in the truck... wait, cant forget the dog and a few cases of beer. Fuel, food, luggage, ...etc.

These manufacturers are looking at another "firestone Fiasco".

tell Joe Blow that his truck will tow 10k no problem....

Back on the subject.........sell anything to anyone?

What weight would you feel comfortable pulling behind your truck?

 

The trailer on my sig weighs about ~2000lbs, it has no trailer brakes (18ft flatbed trailer). I haul cars that are in the 2300~3000lbs range, and some tools, spare parts, bbq grill, coolers full of drinks, extra tires, jack and jack stands in the bed of the truck. Not to mention about 3 passengers in my truck. I tow this for about 2-3 hours to the race track and back, there are some pretty steep and long inclines. My truck does great and I can average about 14.5MPG. I'm guessing all the weight combined is about 6000lbs.

 

Can I ask what gears you have in the truck Fris?
Also, is most of the route to the track flat?
I'm just asking, as I feel that's an incredible MPG for all that weight etc.
I know your a 2wd an all but, I have an 03 with tip top servicing with 20's and if....and I say if I run at an "easy" 60 mph with no trailor and only2 people, I might see your 14.5mpg or so????
I am 4wd however.
Al.
PS I'm not calling into question your figures, I just want the same.

 

I have the stock 3.92 gears.

Some of the route to the track is flat, but there is a lot of inclines where they stretch for a couple of miles.

And I am getting my MPGs from the over head console. I reset it right after I fill up the tank. My buddy told me it is really good as well, he said almost as good as a diesel! He has a 99 Dodge Ram Van with the 5.9L and he said he gets about 9MPG with the same trailer and weight going to the same place.

 

The manufacturers all caveat with "when properly equipped" and "don't exceed the limits of any individual component".

All the various towing specs I've seen include, or refer to, the various conditions, options, passengers, etc.

It's not the manufacturers. It's the sales people (truck and trailer) and Joe Blow with the mindset of "it's a truck" without regard to specific capacities. If you want to spread the blame around, "Why doesn't the government regulate/license recreational towers so they are safe? Why can you drive a 50' RV without a special license or training?"

It comes down to personal responsibility to know how to safely perform a task before you attempt to do so. It doesn't help, however, that sales folks (not the manufacturer) say "Sure you can do that, no problem!"
My truck, with it's specific options, is rated for 8,800lbs towing. I'm comfortable towing 6,000-7,000lbs with room for passengers, cargo, and "just in case."

 

Any trailer that has a GVWR over 5K#'s is suppose to have trailer brakes anywhere in the U.S. I'm in NY and lucky me, the law requires brakes if the trailer itself weighs over 1,000lbs. http://www.roadkingtrailers.com/brakelaws.htm
I have driven with both and I gotta tell ya Fris, get axle brakes!!! i bought a complete axle set off ebay for $129 shipped for my 15" wheels. Nothing compares to axle brakes on a trailer especially when towing that much.

I think Rojhan hit it pretty good. Also, Payload is calculated with a full tank of fuel from the factory. No need to take that out of the payload as it's already been accomodated for.
One other thing. Cannot confuse GAWR(Gross Axle Weight rating) and GVWR. 2 different things.
10klb towing if Properly equipt. I can tell ya from roaming around here a few members have no idea what properly equipt is. It certainly has everything to do with Brakes and sway controllers. Your not suppose to just hook up 10k and run with it. You still need other equipt to make things safe.
I agree, the law is not strict enough for everyone out there that does tow often. But it's up to the towing vehicle to be aware of what's going on and is ultimately responsible for any disasters that may occur.

Fris, what would happen if you blew out a front tire? You'd be screwed pulling 6k without brakes. ohh, 2k trailer and 2-3k car is only 5k#'s. I've turned my brakes all the way down when pulling a full cord of green wood which weighed 5k#'s. My trailer weighs 1200#'s. The truck took so freaking long to stop it was scary. With trailer brakes, you never even know that you have 6k#'s + back there when stopping. Actually, you stop better because the trailer brakes should tug on the truck a little.

 

The overhead console is usually optimistic. Try hand calculating, I think you'll have a bit lower total.

 

Overhead console is MPG's at that specific time and caluclated over the entire tank load. The overhead can be wrong by 3-4mpg's sometimes especially if you do all highway the first 1/2 and then all city. It overcompensates in layman's terms, but if you are very consistent in your driving habits. it will be much more accurate. The real way to tell is to get the miles out of a tank.Take the miles you get for the whole tank and divide it by the number of gallons you filled back up with. This is the most accurate way.

 

i'd be comfortable with 7klbs, with trailer brakes and load leveling hitch.