aftermarket infinity speakers
#1
aftermarket infinity speakers
So I am thinking about replacing my door speakers with some Infinity reference series. Their 2 ohm so they'll get more power and they have to be better than the factory speakers.
However I see a lot of posts by people that got the factory infinity speakers and they want to get rid of them.
Will I be disappointed with them? Should I just go with Kicker or something like that. I used to be into audio in High School, but now I'm outta touch with the market.
I really don't want to spend a whole lot, thinking like 100 a pair tops, and I was thinking of getting a 200 watt amp for them anyways so maybe I should just get some 4 ohms.
I've got 2 12s under the back seat and my mid-bass is really missing. Keeping the factory deck for now, I'm running line level inputs to the subs. That will all change eventually but I haven't picked a head unit yet, but head units don't really put out any power anyways.
However I see a lot of posts by people that got the factory infinity speakers and they want to get rid of them.
Will I be disappointed with them? Should I just go with Kicker or something like that. I used to be into audio in High School, but now I'm outta touch with the market.
I really don't want to spend a whole lot, thinking like 100 a pair tops, and I was thinking of getting a 200 watt amp for them anyways so maybe I should just get some 4 ohms.
I've got 2 12s under the back seat and my mid-bass is really missing. Keeping the factory deck for now, I'm running line level inputs to the subs. That will all change eventually but I haven't picked a head unit yet, but head units don't really put out any power anyways.
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They do not fit in the factory door holes. I tried the Kappa and Reference series. The baskets are too wide unless you want to butcher your door. Not me.
They sound good and are easier to push, but don't fit.
I just installed a pair of Mopar Kicker 6x9's in my front doors. They sound great and are louder than the stock ones. They also plug right into the factory wiring.
http://www.mopar-accessories.com/en-...ubGroupId=3050
Got mine on Ebay for about $90 new. Check your local dealer as well.
They sound good and are easier to push, but don't fit.
I just installed a pair of Mopar Kicker 6x9's in my front doors. They sound great and are louder than the stock ones. They also plug right into the factory wiring.
http://www.mopar-accessories.com/en-...ubGroupId=3050
Got mine on Ebay for about $90 new. Check your local dealer as well.
#6
They do not fit in the factory door holes. I tried the Kappa and Reference series. The baskets are too wide unless you want to butcher your door. Not me.
They sound good and are easier to push, but don't fit.
I just installed a pair of Mopar Kicker 6x9's in my front doors. They sound great and are louder than the stock ones. They also plug right into the factory wiring.
http://www.mopar-accessories.com/en-...ubGroupId=3050
Got mine on Ebay for about $90 new. Check your local dealer as well.
They sound good and are easier to push, but don't fit.
I just installed a pair of Mopar Kicker 6x9's in my front doors. They sound great and are louder than the stock ones. They also plug right into the factory wiring.
http://www.mopar-accessories.com/en-...ubGroupId=3050
Got mine on Ebay for about $90 new. Check your local dealer as well.
#7
I just installed Infinity Kapa 692.9i's in my front doors. If you take the factory spacers off of your old speakers and put them on the Kappas they'll ride a little high, but they'll fit. If you go through crutchfield, they provide a full installation kit that comes with an additional spacer. I tried them with just my aftermarke Alpine head unit and it wasn't enough. I got a 300 watt amp to push them and the Alpine Typr R component 6 1/2's I put in the back doors. It sounds PHENOMINAL. A HUGE improvement over stock. I'm thinking that anyone complaining about the Infinities is trying to push them without an amp, and they're underpowered.
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#9
Will I be disappointed with them? Should I just go with Kicker or something like that. I used to be into audio in High School, but now I'm outta touch with the market.
I really don't want to spend a whole lot, thinking like 100 a pair tops, and I was thinking of getting a 200 watt amp for them anyways so maybe I should just get some 4 ohms.
I've got 2 12s under the back seat and my mid-bass is really missing. Keeping the factory deck for now, I'm running line level inputs to the subs. That will all change eventually but I haven't picked a head unit yet, but head units don't really put out any power anyways.
I really don't want to spend a whole lot, thinking like 100 a pair tops, and I was thinking of getting a 200 watt amp for them anyways so maybe I should just get some 4 ohms.
I've got 2 12s under the back seat and my mid-bass is really missing. Keeping the factory deck for now, I'm running line level inputs to the subs. That will all change eventually but I haven't picked a head unit yet, but head units don't really put out any power anyways.
FORGET about buying both front and rear door speakers. Buy a nicer set just for the front and use the stock rears as just fill running off whatever power the deck has. Hook the front up to an external amp. There is no HU that can push speakers properly to have any descent sound or midbass. You Must have an amp if you want to get where I think you do. This will create a front soundstage as what all the Pros seek to do. You never want sound coming from behind you. Keeping the factory speakers in the rear doors will have enough sound to "fill" in the cabin space behind you for passengers.
I have 1 6.5" component set in my front doors. they are WAY loud enough and def kick some bass. One nice set of front door speakers will play cleaner and louder than any 2 $100 sets will ever dream of. More speakers doesn't mean louder nor does it mean cleaner sound. Most people change speakers just because they were there from the factory. These are very nice sounding and pound for the mids. Great price too! http://cgi.ebay.com/PIONEER-TS-C720P...d=p3286.c0.m14
If you don't want to deal with a crossover or tweeter, then get a nice set of 6x9's in the $200-$250 range.
#10
what I did for midbass in my dakota, is a simple 10" sony XS in a half cubic foot sealed enclose, running off a 75 watt amp. I turned the LPF to 250hz, because a 10 on that low of power isn't as harmed by higher freq's as a high powered 12 or 15 is. Kept the stock infinity amp but used a pioneer HU. put 150hz HPF's on the back of the head unit going to the factory amp. HU is at treble 5 mid 3 and bass 5. Sounds fine to me, the stock tweeters are doing their job and the door woofers just barely start to resonate at loud volumes, and the sub starts doing it's job. The only hole is between the tweeters and door speakers.