CLean install man!!! I love the alpine Products!! Hopefully this week ill have my subs installed and ill b ready to go!!

 

thanks guys. hey silentram if i were you and all you wanted was 45-50w rms i would spent the extra 150ish and replach the HU with a new alpine and get this

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...e_KTP-445.aspx

45w rms and you dont run any wires its all plug and play. that is just my .02. it 50.00 cheaper than the amp and when you add in wire kits and time this seems to be a much faster, cheaper, and easier way with the same results.

 

I'm running a 8 gauge wire for my 2400 watt amp. I'm not running a capacitor but I do need one (will be my next buy) because my lights serge at night depending on how hard or low the bass in the song is getting.. will be my first time using one once I get one.

 

Thanks for the input, I keep making changes to my possible setup as I go along and I guess ebay > most stereo sites due to possible taxes but always look for the free shipping and top rated sellers. Now just gota wait a few more paychecks to start buying them. 6.5 Type-R components($133), 5.25 Type-R 2-ways($89), CDA-9886 HU($260), PDX-4.100 amp($290). All for about $770-780 that all sound like a decent pricing ?

 

onlinecarstereo.com has free shipping no tax and good CS. pdx are cheapest on ebay though. i plan on updated my HU to the w505 double din next summer but the ida-x200 will hold me over till then. your set up will be a good one. if you want i will get some pics of the pdx. it is smaller than i thought. i mean i read all the specs but to see it is another story. im gonna get ths pdx1.600 for my subs for sure the fact that they are stackable just adds to the awesomeness

 

I'm hoping it's better than my 35w 6x9 made in Mexico stockers haha My d*** cousin keeps insisting I need subs, but honestly I use my storage under the back seat for stuff I use quite often in/on my truck, that and I'm not too into a thumping bass system. Granted he said I could always tune it down but I'd rather just stick with a 4 channel amp and a decent component / 2-way set up that will hopefully be audible with the windows down at high way speed which is ABSOLUTELY not possible with the stockers let alone the 2k rpm drone from the 50 FM(AT3030xl is the next to try out after this takes a dump).

As for the other thread on the big 3 wires. Looks like I'll be running 2awg pwr / ground wires and upgrading my terminals to accommodate the other few extra wires I have running to my battery.

P.S.
For onlinecarstereo.com I'm in CA so there's a 9.75% sales tax .

 

oh that sucks( about the tax) im runnning 4g that is what alpine reccomends for the pdx series. the RF wire is more like 2g 0r 3g any way. i got the dual 4g amp kit for 82.00 shipped off of ebay 17' 4g power wire, 6' ground wire 30' 16g speaker wire, 2 sets of signal cables, remote wires distrabution block, fuses. a good deal. just having the components up front running of the HU is better than the whole infinity system. its amazing now

 

Sick setup Oklahemi. I feel like a nub for asking but what do the crossovers do?

 

Oh wait your running our components off the head unit? I hope not, that when you blow them 14 rms powering a speaker that needs 100 rms. If you amp them they will really shine, alpine components are VERY power hungry.

 

crossovers only allow the high frequencies to go to the tweeter and the lows to the mid bass. But cheaper crossovers only put the highs to the tweeter but highs and lows to the mid bass. The type S components are cheap and their crossover is built in to the speaker and its just resistors and what not. Don't worry about having to buy them separate, all components come with them and it's a separate box where the speaker wires go from the amp to the crossover then crossover to mid bass/ tweeter.