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Y-pipe, have to ask.

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Old Feb 14, 2010 | 07:21 AM
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Default Y-pipe, have to ask.

To preface this question I am going to say that I have used the search feature...alot...but inquiring minds are, well, just that...inquiring.

I know that the general consensus is, when doing a cat-back, to remove the stock y-pipe and replace it with a more free-flowing one. I have read the threads and seen the pictures that prove such and I agree, but here is where I begin to question this (for my application). I know there is a certain balance of having free flow and also having proper scavenge and (to an extent) each will in turn improve top end or low end, respectively. I was wondering if putting in a free-flowing y-pipe would take ANY low end grunt away.
Basically, I want to put in a cherry bomb extreme 3 in, dual 2.5 out and have the dual 2.5 outs come out in front of the passenger rear wheel. This is more for looks and sound so I would rather keep low end rather then improve top end and lose any low end. Also, keeping the stock Y would allow me to to put the exhaust in completely by myself be using clamps, but a new Y would need welding(and though i am a decent welder, I dont have access to one where I am at).
In a nutshell, does replacing the stock Y improve power across the board or do you lose even a tiny bit somewhere else in the rpm range.

Also, with all the reading I have been doing, I noticed that people seem fairly concerned about having an exhaust leak using clamps for putting in an exhaust. Not one person (that I could find anyways) has mentioned putting some RTV or high temp silicone gasket maker on the joint when using clamps. This surprises me because alot of motorcycle slip-ons/silencers (which i am really familiar with) either rely solely on rtv and maybe some springs to hold the connection together. Just thought I would mention it for those people that are debating between welding or clamping because it makes the clamping a much more reliable mode of installation and still gives you the chance to change it whenever you want (which i have noticed many people like to do) without re-welding.

Thanks and sorry for the long post.

Remember, all opinions are welcome, but will be taken as such! lol
 

Last edited by eroth3; Feb 14, 2010 at 07:23 AM.
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Old Feb 14, 2010 | 10:18 AM
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I've never heard of the rtv trick,and i've been around dirt bikes and such all my life.My concern is that when you use in in a truck situation.That there is so much more exhaust coming out and heat,Wouldn't it just eventually blow it out or burn it off?.I know it would be hight temp stuff.But,I would think it would eventually blow it out.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2010 | 10:57 AM
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I'd like to do the Y-pipe mod and a freer flowing exhaust but keep the resonator. Bump for info
 
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Old Feb 14, 2010 | 12:28 PM
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Old Feb 14, 2010 | 06:23 PM
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rtmtrrdr, yeah I used 400 degree rated rtv when I put the slip-on on my 2000 CBR600 coming up on 5 years ago. It has held up perfect and the isn't even a clamp on that joint, just two springs to hold it together. I have also used it on a crf230 and a KDX200 and it worked just as great.
I also have used many types of rtv/gasket maker when doing research here at Iowa State. We used various different types in a reactor that reaches 875 degrees celsius which is REALLY hot and even though we were using High temp stuff, it was still outside the temperature range for normal use and they still held up.
On the main joint in the reactor we used fireplace sealant which worked surprisingly well and got really hard (almost like brick) and bonded to the metal flange really well. We used a grinder with a brush wheel to get the old stuff off when we replaced it because the stuff was too hard to do it by hand. You could use something like that if you were really worried.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2010 | 08:26 PM
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When I did my Y-pipe, it seemed to maybe lose a little low end. But, it was done, so I actually changed my intake. I had a CAI that I had constructed and maybe the whole setup was too free-flowing. Who knows? But I went back to the stock set up for my air intake and the low end torque returned.

I have since eliminated the "hemi hat" but still retain the stock airbox. I did a set up similar to what Airaid offers which is just a tube between the stock box and the throttle body.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2010 | 01:47 AM
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08Ramman, I actually read your thread about the intake and want to do the exact same thing as you. I like the idea of keeping the stock airbox and maintaining a paper filter that has good filtration even though it may not flow as well as a K and N.

I will probably just leave the stock Y in then since I can always change it later since I will be clamping everything together.

If anyone has more opinions there is still plenty of time to change my mind for me.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2010 | 12:34 PM
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Im changing out my Y pipe but going to clamp it with raceing claps from jegs check them out they make a complet seal. Im clamping my y pipe because im going to headers sometime in the future and dont want to cut off my y pipe if i weld it on.
 
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