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Spark plug change - verdict is in - need a lil help

Old Feb 23, 2010 | 06:49 PM
  #11  
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Many folks remove the left front wheel and fender liner. That seems to improve the access to those two cylinders. I'm kinda looking forward to doing this on my C. All sixteen plugs are very accessible.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2010 | 07:17 PM
  #12  
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Funny you say that Mike, I was eyeing that while looking at everything today I just dont think I'm flexible enough to do all that, unless maybe if I had it on a lift.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2010 | 07:26 PM
  #13  
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im bioatchd out. I paid the dealer $125 to do mine.
It was in the shop anyway and its to damn cold in MI to do it.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2010 | 08:10 PM
  #14  
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i can do it in less than an hour, have swapped plugs between runs at the drag strip. I use a 3/8 in. air ratchet, 12mm short socket, swivel and 8 in extension to remove the brake booster (5 minutes maybe),remove one clip on brake pedal, and the actuator rod comes out, i move it out of the way without disconecting the brake lines. As for the plugs, a 3/8 in swivel socket, 3 in extension and a 3/8 in air ratchet to remove the plugs, ratchet to install, 3/8 in fuel hose on the end of the plug to start them in the head. I use a 1/4 in air ratchet to remove the coil packs and 1/4 in. drive ratchet to reinstall the packs. but then again, i am a well experienced mechanic, so what might seem easy to me, might not be easy to another.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2010 | 08:18 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by JoeHemi
pfft, I wouldnt worry about being 8k over. My truck was 100k over due and it ran fine. The plugs all looked like this. Not the best, but, I'm not a believer in having them changed every 30k anymore.

Did you measure the gap on those plugs when you took them out? I would be curious to hear what it was at after all of those miles.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2010 | 08:23 PM
  #16  
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They were all the same and just barely bigger than the .045 gap. I couldnt get a definate number because the gapper I had only went up to .045. Other than looking dirty, no clinging soot or cracks on the plugs. I couldn't believe it when I took them out. I was expecting the worst for sure.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2010 | 08:24 PM
  #17  
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I just pulled a new one out of the box and looked at the gap @0.45, Teach, just a guess, but i would bet the gap on that old plug is .060 or better. but it is impossible to tell for sure. sure looks bigger than a new one
 
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Old Feb 23, 2010 | 08:38 PM
  #18  
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I didn't measure all of my old plugs but I did throw the gauge on a couple and they were bigger than .045. So far, all of the new ones I have pulled out of the box have been right on .045.

Sorry, I just don't see an hour or even an hour and a half for a regular guy with a box of typical tools. I'm not talking air wrenches and putting things on a lift and unbolting ancillary parts that are in the way. But to get everything off, goop up the tip of the plug, anti-sieze up the threads, and put it all back in and torque it all back up times 16? That's 3 minutes and 45 seconds per plug over an hour's time from start to finish. Not saying impossible, just saying I want to see it.

Anyway, I think it does help once you figure out what tool parts you can combine to get at the plug and have enough room at the other end to put something on it to turn it. After changing a few of the others, I think I worked that out. For me, it's the socket, my short extension, and my u-joint to get the most working room above the valve cover. I used the long extension where it was practical though.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2010 | 07:30 AM
  #19  
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Wait, you will pay me to do a vid showing my change all plugs (16) in a hour or less?

I might be up for this challange but I gotta warn you, I dont have any plug wires to mess with and Ive got a 3" BL for my engine-to brake booster room..........

You still wanna do it? ;-)
 
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Old Feb 24, 2010 | 07:36 AM
  #20  
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haha, yea you got those piece of cake coil packs now and a brake booster that is no longer a hinderance
 
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