5.7L Hemi-Broken Valve Spring - Help
how did you know the valve spring was broken? What were the symptoms? (or was is obviouis) I am having some really bad ticking when starting my truck cold. As soon as it warms up it goes away. Almost seems like a sticky valve, but after reading this I am wondering if the spring could be broken. The "ticking" is really really loud at first.
Looks like im going to go the sea foam route
I'm about to swap all my valve springs due to a broken spring on my '03 hemi. I'm confused about the need to put the piston at TDC if you are removing the rocker arm any way. It seems to me all the valves under that removed arm should seat from spring pressure and have no input as to where the piston is.
Any insight is much appreciated. Thanks!
Any insight is much appreciated. Thanks!
I'm about to swap all my valve springs due to a broken spring on my '03 hemi. I'm confused about the need to put the piston at TDC if you are removing the rocker arm any way. It seems to me all the valves under that removed arm should seat from spring pressure and have no input as to where the piston is.
Any insight is much appreciated. Thanks!
Any insight is much appreciated. Thanks!
The valves will fall into the bores.
So you need to put the piston at TDC, then pressurise the bore by compressed air to seat the valves so when you remove the springs, air pressure will force the valves to "keep up". If the pistons at TDC, there less air volume needed to achieve this.
This is the only method of replacing the valve springs with the heads on.
You will also need a specialist valve spring compressing tool, specifically for this Hemi engine as well. A stock C clamp style will not work due to the heads still being on and neither will the standard screw down style valve spring compressors from NAPPA etc work either.
A special tool is needed to screw into the rocker posts then a further bolt and arm screws down to compress the spring.
A Moderator on here called Weedahoe used to have them for sale.
It would be worthwhile hitting him up for this tool.
No way can these springs be changed with the heads on without it, so please don't try. Lot's do
Hope this helps?
Al.
no, there is no real need to TDC each individual piston. Just remove one spark plug from each cylinder and apply air to the cylinder were the spark plug was removed. U will need a adapter for the air into the spark plug hole that's all.
You must also have the piston at TDC to make sure both valves are closed so the compressed air your putting into that cylinder doesn't leak out.
You won't keep the valves up if you don't get them at TDC.
There's an old school trick of keeping valves up by using a nylon rope and not air.
As the piston gets up towards TDC feed some small diameter nylon rope into the bore through the spark plug hole. Leave a 6inch tail so you can pull it back out again.
Slowly wind the piston to as close to TDC as you can feeling for the rope to stop the piston as you turn the crank.
Once your there, the rope keeps your valves closed.
Just an alternative way of doing it that might help you.
Al.
You won't keep the valves up if you don't get them at TDC.
There's an old school trick of keeping valves up by using a nylon rope and not air.
As the piston gets up towards TDC feed some small diameter nylon rope into the bore through the spark plug hole. Leave a 6inch tail so you can pull it back out again.
Slowly wind the piston to as close to TDC as you can feeling for the rope to stop the piston as you turn the crank.
Once your there, the rope keeps your valves closed.
Just an alternative way of doing it that might help you.
Al.





