5.7L Hemi-Broken Valve Spring - Help
Professional
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 170
Likes: 1
From: Up 34 miles from GlasgroMT
SeaFoam, never hurts. I burn a can every-other month.
Butch, B4 the serpentine avenue, then try this in the process of illumination in locating the noise. Go back and install your owners-guide suggested oil grade and see if the noise goes away. synthetic oil, is not the answer for all, it has alot to do about timing when its introduced to the engine, the engine wear patterns. After awhile, synthetic oil finds places to leak, it cleans, washes places, gets thin, slicks by places where std oil would hold back.
Butch, B4 the serpentine avenue, then try this in the process of illumination in locating the noise. Go back and install your owners-guide suggested oil grade and see if the noise goes away. synthetic oil, is not the answer for all, it has alot to do about timing when its introduced to the engine, the engine wear patterns. After awhile, synthetic oil finds places to leak, it cleans, washes places, gets thin, slicks by places where std oil would hold back.
Professional
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 170
Likes: 1
From: Up 34 miles from GlasgroMT
Butch1581, its been weeks since hearing about any fix with your engine noise. Did you solve the problem besides walking away?
Captain
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 635
Likes: 1
From: Neenah WI
so far, I changed the oil to Castrol full synthetic and added a full can of sea-foam. The problem went away! It has only clicked once since the oil change after sitting outside over night (35*) So hopefully the seafaom will continue to clean. I am going to change oil after like 1500 miles again and do the same thing to try to flush out as much crap as I can. Thanks for the advice. Hopefully I will only be boosting and not clicking!
Professional
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 170
Likes: 1
From: Up 34 miles from GlasgroMT
If it sucked a valve, it will not be running long, say approx 20 seconds.
So, tell us in more detail about your concern/problem. 1st;
What do you have, how long, odo mileage, any engine mods.
This is FireFighter's thread, ask him or Weed if you should start a new thread.
Captain
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 635
Likes: 1
From: Neenah WI
1000 miles on the truck with the seafoam still in there..... NO CLICKING! So far so good. I am going to keep an eye on the oil color, and as soon as it starts looking dark I am going to drop it. I am going to run seafoam every other oil change from now on... Great product.
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 19,168
Likes: 23
From: South GA
To change the valve springs you need a special tool. "miller" tools used to change springs are 250-300 and your standard valve spring compressor wont work. If you need one, LMK as I am having a local machine shop make some this week.
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
I'm hoping that tapping doesn't raise any concerns.
Anyway, I did state earlier that I would post how I got the fan clutch nut off without a true pin spanner wrench...literally this method took less than 2 minutes.
I could not find a spanner wrench anywhere to buy or rent, except on the net for $40, well...I needed it then not in a week. So, staring at the water pump pulley, I came up with this...I ripped a 2x4 down to the size you see, drilled a tight hole, inserted bolt through lumber and thru pulley with nut. With my measurements, I cut it so that on force of the left hand threads would force the top of the board against my A/C pulley hence stopping the pulley. Three medium taps on the cresent wrench and she was loose....I figure it cost me about 1/10th of the 2x4 ($0.29)...take a look: *If anyone is interested, I can mass produce these right here at my home, for $1 plus S&H, PayPal preferred
Anyway, I did state earlier that I would post how I got the fan clutch nut off without a true pin spanner wrench...literally this method took less than 2 minutes.
I could not find a spanner wrench anywhere to buy or rent, except on the net for $40, well...I needed it then not in a week. So, staring at the water pump pulley, I came up with this...I ripped a 2x4 down to the size you see, drilled a tight hole, inserted bolt through lumber and thru pulley with nut. With my measurements, I cut it so that on force of the left hand threads would force the top of the board against my A/C pulley hence stopping the pulley. Three medium taps on the cresent wrench and she was loose....I figure it cost me about 1/10th of the 2x4 ($0.29)...take a look: *If anyone is interested, I can mass produce these right here at my home, for $1 plus S&H, PayPal preferred
Professional
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 170
Likes: 1
From: Up 34 miles from GlasgroMT
I did the same thing/idea approx eight months ago.
Took a 1/4 thick flat bar by 3" wide by approx 18" long, placed the two 1/4
inch bolts 180 degrees apart, grind the radius as needed to clear the center, nut.
and When it came time to reinstall the fan, swap the 1/4 inch bolts direction to
accommodate the installation. Took a sharpie to mark the new tools purpose. Stored it on another shop nail. Grand idea.
Took a 1/4 thick flat bar by 3" wide by approx 18" long, placed the two 1/4
inch bolts 180 degrees apart, grind the radius as needed to clear the center, nut.
and When it came time to reinstall the fan, swap the 1/4 inch bolts direction to
accommodate the installation. Took a sharpie to mark the new tools purpose. Stored it on another shop nail. Grand idea.