no i didnt they were still greasy
lol sorry matt

 

nice write up i was at first like wtf remove the cap then read it lol nice tho

 

you needed to change them breaks almost down bear metal

 

I dont remove my cap either but was wondering something. IF you did overflow, how will you catch it with the bag upside down? ;-)

 

did you grease your pads? with a ceramic pad grease? very good write up nick...and i have always removed my master cylinder cap ive seen techs do it also the bag is so it doesnt spray not to save it......did you ever get your shackles on?....

 

Nice writeup! I did my front ones along with the rotors this week. My pads looked like
yours. I have to admit though I'm not feeling a noticeable difference in braking.

 

Hey man thanks for the write-up. I will definitely change my own pads next time. Though I think my rear brakes probably will need it before the fronts. Should the process be similar for the rears you think?

 

Caliper slider pins must be checked to make sure they move easily. If they're stuck, excessive pad wear will result.
No brake job is complete unless this is done.

Torque specs.

Front caliper adapter mounting bolts tighten to 176 N·m (130 ft.lbs.)

Rear caliper adapter mounting bolts 135 N·m (100 ft.lbs)

Front caliper slide pin bolts. tighten to 32 N·m (24 ft. lbs.)

Rear caliper mounting slide pin bolts tighten to 15 N·m (11 ft. lbs.).

Re grease caliper slider sleeves with high temp silicone grease.

Hope this helps?
Al.

 

mind did not overflow, refer to step 3
yes i greased them with the grease they gave me and have zero sqealing. shackles are getting on this weekend
i can tell that its much smooth to stop but thats maybe just be me
yea pretty sure the rears will be similar

 

I agree with Al on the torque specs.

Good Job though and you don't really need to write a Novel as I am sure this DIY will help someone on their first time who dosn't got a Haynes or Free Download Service Manual. If ever in doubt always do one side at a time so if you get confused you have an opposite example to look at on the assembled side, especially if you need to replace those hidden little parking brake shoes in the back (if rear seals leaking they'll be toast).

From personnal lessons learned it is good to clean and or replace the Bleeder screw on the caliper(s) and dab some anti-seize on re-install as they point upward in a chamfered hole that collects dirt, mud and if you don't bleed em for a couple years your chances of them breaking off next time you loosen them is reduced.

Also although the Caliper mounting bolts are torqued at 130 I put em in with some blue threadlocker (so next time you gotta clean out the threads).