Rear diff seal and tierod ends
I need to replace the pinion seal in my rear diff. My question is, can this be done from the drive shaft side?
I am also going to be doing my tierod ends. Are there any tips or tricks to get these things done easier?
Thanks
I am also going to be doing my tierod ends. Are there any tips or tricks to get these things done easier?
Thanks
tie rod ends are very is to do just take the nut off the bottom and hit it with a hammer on the stud and should pop right off. i believe its a 21 mm nut and if the stud starts spinning use a flat wrench on the nut and then use a 10mm ratched on the bottom just remember you will probably need a wheel alignment when your done and as for the diff when you got the drive shaft off see if there is a nut in the middle of where it bolts to shuld be able to take it off and change seal that way.
while your doing that depending on how many k are on your truck and is it 1500 with lsd possibly change the diff oil while your at it and check for the little clutch plate clips and see if they are still in place or falling out.
while your doing that depending on how many k are on your truck and is it 1500 with lsd possibly change the diff oil while your at it and check for the little clutch plate clips and see if they are still in place or falling out.
Welcome to DF.
I've posted about the pinion seal before for the how-to. I'd use the search to find prior posts regarding that. No need to drain the oil if it's still good. Otherwise, I'd put some new stuff in there. Especially if it's been a while...30kmi...
Tie-rods been covered before as well. Hammer will work the best and you will need an alignment. I like to scratch a mark on the inner tie rod side and measure the old length to the center of the balljoint. Make the new one as close to that as possible.. Measuring the threads DOES NOT WORK. Well, it'll get you in the genral area but no where near as close as what I just stated.
I've posted about the pinion seal before for the how-to. I'd use the search to find prior posts regarding that. No need to drain the oil if it's still good. Otherwise, I'd put some new stuff in there. Especially if it's been a while...30kmi...
Tie-rods been covered before as well. Hammer will work the best and you will need an alignment. I like to scratch a mark on the inner tie rod side and measure the old length to the center of the balljoint. Make the new one as close to that as possible.. Measuring the threads DOES NOT WORK. Well, it'll get you in the genral area but no where near as close as what I just stated.
Thanks Joe, I just added it my bookmarks..haha
Trying to make me look bad in proving how lazy i am this afternoon???...lol j/k
Trying to make me look bad in proving how lazy i am this afternoon???...lol j/k








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