need guys with taurus fans to check in
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Hall Of Fame
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 19,168
Likes: 23
From: South GA
need guys with taurus fans to check in
Ok, ive been running my taurus efan for some time now and never any issues. It is being used on the low speed and I really do not having any cooling issues with my 180* stat.
But being the never satisfied person that i am I wanted to go to the high speed. With the hayden controller I have it has a 40/50A relay and a 20A Maxi fuse. So i bought a 80/60A relay and a AGU fuse holder and some 60A fuses. I swapped everything over and and tested it and everything held its own weight without anything blowing or smoking (honesty was more worried about the controller than i was anything else).
Now I have two 1000CA (850CCA) batteries and a 136A alt. Ive got plenty of electrical gear although not a lot of it is ever running all at the same time. The biggest current draw I will have at one time is my system and HIDs.
Anyway, yesterday (2 days after the upgrades) I was out getting lunch and my truck dinged. I looked at my gauges and everything was fine except my voltage gauge. It was dead completely. So I turned off the truck and restarted it and it came back to life but was low. I brought up the voltage display on my Trinity and it read right at 12v.
So Im thinking I killed my alt and Im running off the batteries but no CEL on and no DTC codes stored. As I drive I see it goes up to 13v but no more than that. So obviously Im getting some voltage.
So I said when i get home i will get my meter out and check the voltage output on the alt. Now I know the voltage output is directly controlled by the PCM which in turn gets its info from the battery temperature sensor. So let me share this with you.
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BATTERY TEMPERATURE SENSOR
DESCRIPTION
The Battery Temperature Sensor (BTS) is attached to the battery tray located under the battery.
OPERATION
The BTS is used to determine the battery temperature and control battery charging rate. This temperature data, along with data from monitored line voltage, is used by the PCM (ECM Diesel) to vary the battery charging rate. System voltage will be higher at colder temperatures and is gradually reduced at warmer temperatures.
The PCM sends 5 volts to the sensor and is grounded through the sensor return line. As temperature increases, resistance in the sensor decreases and the detection voltage at the PCM increases.
The BTS is also used for OBD II diagnostics. Certain faults and OBD II monitors are either enabled or disabled, depending upon BTS input (for example, disable purge and enable Leak Detection Pump (LDP) and O2 sensor heater tests). Most OBD II monitors are disabled below 20°F
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So to get around this I disconnect the BTS and the 2 pin harness from the alt and start it up. Oddly enough it starts a mid 12v (battery voltage I think) and slowly goes up to 13v and then to about 13.5v and stabilizes. But after playing with it and resetting the PCM I get it back to around 14.2v
Now, here is my question. For those of you with Taurus fans running on HIGH speed only, what is your setup as far as controller, relay, fuse, battery size and alt size.
I know my relay was hot but nothing like where it was going to melt. My wiring was warm but the insulation was not going to melt off.
Although I did not check my battery temp (Trinity allows you to do that), it may be the fan pulling too many amps too fast and causing the battery to heat up, maybe a bad BTS or just coincidence.
Either way, for the time being I went back to the low speed until i have more time to give to the issue.
But let me here what you guys think and know
But being the never satisfied person that i am I wanted to go to the high speed. With the hayden controller I have it has a 40/50A relay and a 20A Maxi fuse. So i bought a 80/60A relay and a AGU fuse holder and some 60A fuses. I swapped everything over and and tested it and everything held its own weight without anything blowing or smoking (honesty was more worried about the controller than i was anything else).
Now I have two 1000CA (850CCA) batteries and a 136A alt. Ive got plenty of electrical gear although not a lot of it is ever running all at the same time. The biggest current draw I will have at one time is my system and HIDs.
Anyway, yesterday (2 days after the upgrades) I was out getting lunch and my truck dinged. I looked at my gauges and everything was fine except my voltage gauge. It was dead completely. So I turned off the truck and restarted it and it came back to life but was low. I brought up the voltage display on my Trinity and it read right at 12v.
So Im thinking I killed my alt and Im running off the batteries but no CEL on and no DTC codes stored. As I drive I see it goes up to 13v but no more than that. So obviously Im getting some voltage.
So I said when i get home i will get my meter out and check the voltage output on the alt. Now I know the voltage output is directly controlled by the PCM which in turn gets its info from the battery temperature sensor. So let me share this with you.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++
BATTERY TEMPERATURE SENSOR
DESCRIPTION
The Battery Temperature Sensor (BTS) is attached to the battery tray located under the battery.
OPERATION
The BTS is used to determine the battery temperature and control battery charging rate. This temperature data, along with data from monitored line voltage, is used by the PCM (ECM Diesel) to vary the battery charging rate. System voltage will be higher at colder temperatures and is gradually reduced at warmer temperatures.
The PCM sends 5 volts to the sensor and is grounded through the sensor return line. As temperature increases, resistance in the sensor decreases and the detection voltage at the PCM increases.
The BTS is also used for OBD II diagnostics. Certain faults and OBD II monitors are either enabled or disabled, depending upon BTS input (for example, disable purge and enable Leak Detection Pump (LDP) and O2 sensor heater tests). Most OBD II monitors are disabled below 20°F
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++
So to get around this I disconnect the BTS and the 2 pin harness from the alt and start it up. Oddly enough it starts a mid 12v (battery voltage I think) and slowly goes up to 13v and then to about 13.5v and stabilizes. But after playing with it and resetting the PCM I get it back to around 14.2v
Now, here is my question. For those of you with Taurus fans running on HIGH speed only, what is your setup as far as controller, relay, fuse, battery size and alt size.
I know my relay was hot but nothing like where it was going to melt. My wiring was warm but the insulation was not going to melt off.
Although I did not check my battery temp (Trinity allows you to do that), it may be the fan pulling too many amps too fast and causing the battery to heat up, maybe a bad BTS or just coincidence.
Either way, for the time being I went back to the low speed until i have more time to give to the issue.
But let me here what you guys think and know
Moderate User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 17,003
Likes: 21
From: Albany, NY
Just do an "IAT" mod to the battery and fool the PCM into thinking it's colder so the alt wil charge it faster...lol Of course this will strain your alternator more and reduce it's lifespan.
One of my biggst concerns of installing the Efan that has been sitting in my garage for nearly a year now is the voltage supply. Since I have an aftermarket stereo, I have been awaiting funds to purchase an upgraded alt. before the efan istall. I know you have a number of electircal components sucking your batteries and I would suggest you upgrade to atleast a 200A alt to solve any and all future problem.
One of my biggst concerns of installing the Efan that has been sitting in my garage for nearly a year now is the voltage supply. Since I have an aftermarket stereo, I have been awaiting funds to purchase an upgraded alt. before the efan istall. I know you have a number of electircal components sucking your batteries and I would suggest you upgrade to atleast a 200A alt to solve any and all future problem.
Thread Starter
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Hall Of Fame
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 19,168
Likes: 23
From: South GA
yeah, dont think the IAT trick on the BTS didnt cross my mind.....LOL
I can get a 160A alt easily but I have no desire to pay out the nose for a custom made or hand wound alt.
I can get a 160A alt easily but I have no desire to pay out the nose for a custom made or hand wound alt.
Banned
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 7,759
Likes: 1
I have a question, what is the reason behind wanting tu run it on high if it cools your truck fine on low? When I had mine on high it was entirely too loud for me, sounded like a helicopter under the hood when it kicked on.
Thread Starter
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Hall Of Fame
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 19,168
Likes: 23
From: South GA
I know I know, silly me for wanting to go faster and be more cool. LOL
Grand Champion
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,930
Likes: 1
From: TAMPA BAY
dog i have my system and lights and i run my efan and i havent seen any cooling or voltage issues yet...
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Record Breaker
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,605
Likes: 1
From: VA
Weed I followed this wiring diagram http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...cfan/index.php when I did my taurus fan and used the parts they list. It can't charge the system at idle when the fan kicks on it will drop to about 1/4 on the gauge, but I do have an ASP underdrive pulley on my truck as well. I have the stock 136 amp alt., a 40 amp AGU fuse, and the stock battery.
